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Went to the barn


OK so its not a full rebuild but I did mention lapsing valves and new seals. You could even port and polish, do a small hone job and get some new rings.

Its not "lapsing" its lapping, and that also doesnt make it a rebuild. To do it "right" your probably in the 1K and up range. (Depending on your local machine shop) Thats getting it bored/honed and/or whatever it needs. Remember, that thing is 25 years old, there is alot of parts that "should" be replaced to do it "right"

Right and should are in quotes because everyone's definition of them is different when it comes to engine work. and this is MY opinion based on alot of experience with engines
 
Its not "lapsing" its lapping, and that also doesnt make it a rebuild. To do it "right" your probably in the 1K and up range. (Depending on your local machine shop) Thats getting it bored/honed and/or whatever it needs. Remember, that thing is 25 years old, there is alot of parts that "should" be replaced to do it "right"

Right and should are in quotes because everyone's definition of them is different when it comes to engine work. and this is MY opinion based on alot of experience with engines

Wow I'm dumb.:icon_confused:Always thought it was called lapsing.
 
thats why i am keeping mine an fixing it because atleast i know it runs
If it is running all it may need is some TLC. Run some seafoam thru it and do a complete diagnostic, if it has good compression and the vacuum holds steady all I did with mine was pull the intake manifold and do valve guide seals. put some sealant in the valleys between the heads and block when you torque the intake back down. Get the duraspark conversion parts dizzy, module, cap and rotor, Get rid of the computer wost of the wires and vacuum lines. If that engine has good oil pressure yea run it till it pukes but the duraspark will bring it to life. ((5 sure the valve guide seals are shot if they have not been changed and you can do it without pulling the heads.
 
Ive herd from the local autoparts store thats a good way to **** up an engine using seafoam. I might justd pull the engine an get a new long block an convert my old stuff from my old engine to the new block. then again i might sell to fix my other truck undeided, Ive got to much in that truck to send it to the junkyard.
 
Ive herd from the local autoparts store thats a good way to **** up an engine using seafoam. I might justd pull the engine an get a new long block an convert my old stuff from my old engine to the new block. then again i might sell to fix my other truck undeided, Ive got to much in that truck to send it to the junkyard.

Seafoam does not mess up the engine. Trust me, I have used it in my vehicles and they have ran better after use. Just let it sit for around 20 minutes after you introduce it to the engine. I don't know what vacuum line to use though.
 
Seafoam does not mess up the engine. Trust me, I have used it in my vehicles and they have ran better after use. Just let it sit for around 20 minutes after you introduce it to the engine. I don't know what vacuum line to use though.

brake booster
 
Ive herd from the local autoparts store thats a good way to **** up an engine using seafoam. I might justd pull the engine an get a new long block an convert my old stuff from my old engine to the new block. then again i might sell to fix my other truck undeided, Ive got to much in that truck to send it to the junkyard.

Now you can say that you heard on TRS "That listening to the people at the local autoparts store is an even better way to **** up an engine". :D
 
Ive herd from the local autoparts store thats a good way to **** up an engine using seafoam. I might justd pull the engine an get a new long block an convert my old stuff from my old engine to the new block. then again i might sell to fix my other truck undeided, Ive got to much in that truck to send it to the junkyard.

I'd trust the word of someone who has done it over someone who thinks they know what will happen. I've received and heard bad advice given on many occasions at the local Autozone. Listen to these guys on TRS before you listen to your parts jockey.
 
seafoam is for engines not worth working on.
 
We used to use ATF and water pour some ATF in slow at about 2500 rpm till it about dies and rev it up till the smoke stopped then did the same with water to wash out all the carbon. Dont do that with a cat it will destroy it real fast. With seafoam and a carb just do the same thing get the engine up to temp and pour 1/2 a can in the carb at an idle slowly not to kill the engine then shut it down fast. Let it sit for at least 1/2 an hour then start it up and rev it about 2500 rpm until the smoke stops. The more it smokes the more carbon it is burning up and it is safe for the cat.
 

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