• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

well sold the ranger 2 weeks ago but!!!look inside hahaha lol


My understanding on the E6 heads is you can change heads or have an HO cam, but not both. I have a CV 5.0 in my Ranger with them.

Exactly. Maybe it didn't read as I wanted it to, but that's what I was getting at with "I don't suggest doing heads and a cam, just heads". The 86 has a pretty decent cam already.

I was fortunate enough to have the 3.27 rear gear option for my 86 GT. It made a decent little street machine.

EDIT: Here are cam specs for the 5.0 Mustang HO.

For comparisons sake, I found these as well:


85-88 HO:
Lift: .278 intake, .278 exhaust
Duration: 266 intake 266 exhaust
Overlap: 36 degrees, 9.04 factor
Lobe Center: 115 intake, 115 exhaust
Ford P/N: E5ZE-AA

89-90 HO:
Lift: .278 intake, .278 exhaust
Duration: 276 intake, 266 exhaust
Overlap: 39 degrees, 19.51 factor
Lobe Center: 116 intake, 115 exhaust
Ford P/N: E8ZE-CA

91-95 HO:
Lift: .278 intake, .278 exhaust
Duration: 276 intake, 266 exhaust
Overlap: 39 degrees, 19.51 factor
Lobe Center: 116 intake, 115 exhaust
Ford P/N: F1ZE-AA (91-94) F4ZE-EA (95)

93-95 Cobra:
Lift: .282 intake, .282 exhaust
Duration: 270 intake, 270 exhaust
Overlap: 33.5 degrees, 15.24 factor
Lobe Center: 115 intake, 121.5 exhaust
Ford P/N: F3ZE-CA

Also, it appears the 93 Cobra and 93 Thunderbird had the same grind of cam.
 
Last edited:
Have a friend in the Army that still has his 86 5.0 it has a c-6 in it now and the 3.27 gears, last year he did a lowcomp mod and added that crazy supercharger to it. Like that thing wasn't freeky fast enough he had to do that to it. Bad thing is he might get profiled and be makin some police force loads of cash in tickets.
 
Exactly. Maybe it didn't read as I wanted it to, but that's what I was getting at with "I don't suggest doing heads and a cam, just heads". The 86 has a pretty decent cam already.

What I was told with mine ('87 Crown Vic 5.0) was that I could up the antie and gain 50hp with an HO cam, or go to different heads. E7's only gained the 5.0 25hp along with the HO cam over the E6's.

There isn't enough valve clearance though to go with both the factory HO cam and different heads though... so for a Mustang that already has the cam it would be silly to ditch the cam for a set of heads and lose at least 25hp.

Again that is what I was told, if someone can prove me wrong I am all ears... I have a set of E7's standing on the garage floor. :icon_thumby:

That is interesting about the HO cam's, I just thought an HO cam was an HO cam.
 
Last edited:
Well, I read into this a little further. It appears to be a toss up as to whether or not it will work. You can fly cut the pistons to be sure you'll have proper PTV clearance. Here's some good info:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/5-0l-talk/203199-1986-mustang-gt-gt40p-heads.html

Also found some guys claiming out of the box TFS Twisted Wedge heads will clear without issues because the valves are angled differently. It appears you can also put an E303 bumpstick in if you use these. This might be the way to go. Of course, all of this is assuming your bottom end is in good shape.

EDIT: If you did do the heads AND cam, it would probably be time to switch to Mass Air.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/archive/index.php/t-30587.html




Here's some flow numbers of the GT40, Cobra, and Explorer intake manifold.
68141d1240926450-official-explorer-gt40-cobra-intake-thread-intake5.jpg
 
Last edited:
Before I had the pistons fly cut I would just get new ones with valve reliefs already in them, especially with any high performance hopes. I mean, you already have them out, subract the cost of a machine shop machining the pistons (and possibly weakening them) from the price of new and I doubt they are too far off.

Really, all things considered... the cheapest route would be to get this thing running and put out feelers for a low mile nice running Explorer 5.0 if you want to make it really RUN.

And I ain't trading my four barrel for no high falutin' mass air :icon_twisted:
 
Why not just throw an Explorer 5.0 in it with a mass air conversion and T5 swap?
 
well i just got back from visting my cusin so if anyone can tell me what this wire go to thanks and the lil box that its hooked to
 

Attachments

  • starter_solenoid_2.JPG
    starter_solenoid_2.JPG
    94.4 KB · Views: 124
well i just got back from visting my cusin so if anyone can tell me what this wire go to thanks and the lil box that its hooked to

It is kinda hard to tell at that angle, is it a circuit breaker?

Essentially it is a self healing fuse. If it sees too many amps the switch opens until it cools and then the switch closes and tries again.

Dunno what it goes to, the red one on the small post "that bridges" to the big post is usually reserved for the neutral start switch.
 
well i got it figured out turns over nice just charging the battery all the way now them i will start working on it more thanks for the advice :yahoo:
 
consider one of the newer transmissions. standard or electronic auto.
the extra overdrive helps on the freeway.
and upgrading to a aftermarket steering wheel with paddle shifters for late model electronic automatic, would be a nice addittion if you like to road race. bell housing adaptors aren't that expensive..
start a long term thread of your build with lots of b4 and after photos..
 
That part you have circled is a circuit breaker for the power windows and locks.
 
consider one of the newer transmissions. standard or electronic auto.
the extra overdrive helps on the freeway.
and upgrading to a aftermarket steering wheel with paddle shifters for late model electronic automatic, would be a nice addittion if you like to road race. bell housing adaptors aren't that expensive..
start a long term thread of your build with lots of b4 and after photos..

By the time you did all of this, you could have a well built AOD. Or even better, a T5 swap.
 
Hey guys sorry to thread jack here but I was wondering if you could tell me there is any certain yrs of fox body mustangs I should stay away from and which are the better yrs?? I am having to let my diesel truck go :bawling: but since I have 2 other trucks at my disposal i figured its time to get my dream car on the roll. The fox body mustang has and always will be my favorite body style. :icon_hornsup:
 
The '86 has a rather unfriendly engine for modifications (if it is the original)

Me personally, I wouldn't mind getting one from whenever the 5.0 came back up until '85. I like the four eyed ones, but I like a carb and flat tappet for tinkerability. '86 on top of the E6 heads and pistons without valve reliefs where the first year of fuel injection.

I ain't lookin to burn down barns, it is fun when the secondaries open up and not spending a small fortune on a roller cam... and the engine won't have to be overhauled to run anything more than the stock cam. The four eyes kind of paint you in a corner there unless you can find a donar with a later more mod friendly engine.
 
Last edited:

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top