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Well I burned a valve over the weekend . .


OK update. I was right and wrong. It was indeed a valve problem that happened to cylinder #3, but not a typical burned valve. Matter of fact, not an exhaust valve at all, which is typically the one that is damaged. It was the intake valve. What has happened to it is the valve was pushed up into the pocket, the seat. It makes the valve sorta tulip shaped. It means the valve is sitting higher, geometry wise, to the rest of the valve train. Therefore, it never closes completely . . bingo no compression. I am not an "expert" when it comes to these 2.3 engines. So I haven't heard of this happening to them. Other engines, sure have. And it happens for various reasons . . but it happens. So here is one for the 2.3 . . . maybe I'll hear about others now. It is similar to seat recession in the final result, but happens to the valve instead.
 
Pete, if you haven't already, I can save you a few $$ on replacement injectors. I have a set for sale in BST, new in box ford injectors. I was also going to suggest a leakdown test prior to disassembly, which would tell you what the machine shop already found out for you. Glad you found the problem though, and it wasn't a complete catastrophe...

SVT
 
Thanks for the offer. I already have a set of injectors. I decided on that when I had the initial problem and ordered a set immediately. I have a machine shop I use with my business when needed, so they tanked the head and did a slight cut. The valve job was on me . . . I invested in a valve machine some time back when a good deal presented itself :icon_hornsup: So if I did a good job on the valves and seats . . . she ought to be running like new :icon_bounceblue:
 
Still should have that head shaved down!
 
Intake valve "tuliping" in not common, usual cause is overheated cylinder, running too lean or EGR problem can cause cylinder overheating.

I would double check EGR system, part of the reason for the EGR is to keep cylinder temps down, this prevents "pinging", and also reduces pollution gases.
First sign of EGR problems is usually slight pinging on acceleration.

I have never owned a 2.3l but someone mentioned pinging is a common issue with these, I would think there would be an underlying issue that causes that, maybe a marginal EGR setup that needs to be kept cleaner than other EGR systems to work at 100% efficiency.

Compression is only 9.x:1 so I can't see regular gas being the issue for pinging.
 
Ron, the head design is such that they detonate easily. This has been an issue since the 70s, when they came out. Ford went to a dual plug design to try and combat it, especially while trying to burn a leaner emissions friendly mixture. The EGR valve is an obvious suspect and I have a new one already. I eluded to the fact that I was replacing a lot of things on the engine. Its been good for 201K miles, so its time to update things. I'm adding a new waterpump and timing belt just because . . I don't want to go insiude again. I had already replaced them about 3 years ago, but might as well do it again. I bought an injector set, figuring I could have a partially clogged injector causing the lean condition. This isn't my first rodeo, I have built a lot of engines over the years, but have not seen this problem on a 2.3. The guy that milled and tanked the head said he has seen quite a few of them on 2.3s, but he builds heads everyday at his shop. My other valves looked good and cleaned up well with a slight grind. A new EGR and injectors will hopefuilly make sure the mixture is at the proper burning temp. E10 can add to the mess as well . . and it's hard to stay away from that though . . only to get worse I'm afraid.
 
Mike, give it a break. Do you understand? enough.

:icon_thumby: Just trying to help out, didnt figure it would get on your nerves. Ive only got 8 years personal experience with these engines, and a few old timers that have run them for more than twice that that I get advice from. But we know nothing.
 
I think after my first response I made it clear it wasn't going to happen. I have no problem with your first suggestion, but I wasn't going that way.
 
Found a few hours today . . .


404929232.jpg


404929231.jpg


These next two pics are of the damaged valve. First pic is hard to see, but the concave area on the valve head is more more pronounced. The second pic I put an arrow pointing to where the valve began to crack from being pulled up.

404929361.jpg


404929360.jpg
 
Did you upgrade the valves, or go back OEM ? Did you think of a port/polish while the head was off for more efficiency?

SVT
 
I only replaced the one valve, just OEM. It lasted 200K, if it could get 100K more, it will never fail for me. I bought this truck simply to be a vehicle to drive out of state and work on my property. That time is coming to an end shortly, so it will have an easier life. Port and polish?? I ported and polished two of my Mustang engines . . not my little Ranger . I'm confident something happened inthat cylinder to cause this problem, not just time and mileage.
 
I agree, I've had several 2.3's in my mustang and ranger that have all seen over 200k, 3 were over 300k. I was just thinking while you had it down the p&p could help with fuel economy...


SVT
 
Well I have two customer jobs I'm working on and at least three of my own projects going on right now. This "disturbance" with the Ranger wasn't/isn't needed so it isn't a relaxing time, if you know what I mean. I can't get it done fast enough, I didn't have time for it .
 
Well the latest news is she is back together and running better than ever. I found some time today to finish it. I took it slow as I was getting rid of 24 years of grease and oil and cleaned/painted a lot of pieces that certainly wouldn't have been cleaned if I was working on it for a customer. I was initially hoping to have a picture perfect burned valve for this thread, but ended up with a "tulipped" valve. Hopefully this may help someone in the future looking for resource material.
 

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