welded d35 durability

[86ford]

ok guys and gals, my d35 will be welded/locked after my next wheeling trip since i am upgrading to a d44 in the next year i am no longer concerned with my d35s life span. i am sure most of the people on here have seen pictures of my b2 so you have a good idea how hard i beat on it with my 33s and a mini spooled rear. dish out the opinions and make your bets on how long before i break something and what you THINK i will break first.


86

 

[mjonesjr]

Too bad you can't chose more than 1 option. I would have chosen:
- Shaft after 1 trip
- hub after 1 trip
- other

Knowing how you beat it atleast.

 

[97BlackBetty]

I think you will get 2 trips out if it before a shaft or joint fails. Are you running any upgrades like 760-X's or full circle clips/tacked caps? I dont think you will lose a hub, I seem to remember that it is always really greasey where you wheel. Are you going to try to break something or are you just going to do you normal wheeling?

 

[86ford]

I think you will get 2 trips out if it before a shaft or joint fails. Are you running any upgrades like 760-X's or full circle clips/tacked caps? I dont think you will lose a hub, I seem to remember that it is always really greasey where you wheel. Are you going to try to break something or are you just going to do you normal wheeling?

my normal wheeling is about as close to TRYING to break something as you can get. i have cheap non greaseable joints in all my d35 shafts(tack welded in). yes i do play in ALOT of mud, even if i dont like it, its part of ohio wheeling. i am running warn hubs and almost always drain my diffs if i have any milky looking gear lube. i hit any trails or challenges i that i have a prayer of making.

my photobucket account will give you a good idea of how i wheel.....

http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/ff80/the86ford/

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[86ford]

Too bad you can't chose more than 1 option. I would have chosen:
- Shaft after 1 trip
- hub after 1 trip
- other

Knowing how you beat it atleast.

i will fix that right now! multiple choices will be an option.

never mind, it does not want to let me.

86

 

[Evan]

my normal wheeling is about as close to TRYING to break something as you can get. i have cheap non greaseable joints in all my d35 shafts(tack welded in). yes i do play in ALOT of mud, even if i dont like it, its part of ohio wheeling. i am running warn hubs and almost always drain my diffs if i have any milky looking gear lube. i hit any trails or challenges i that i have a prayer of making.

my photobucket account will give you a good idea of how i wheel.....

http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/ff80/the86ford/

86

Whatever breakage occurs to your 35 will likely also happen to the 44 you'll be swapping in...

 

[86ford]

Whatever breakage occurs to your 35 will likely also happen to the 44 you'll be swapping in...

TRUE

because the majority of the parts are the same.

i completely understand that a STOCK d44 is very similar to a stock d35.

I will NOT be running a stock d44. i will be ordering upgraded shafts, a aussie locker and upgraded hubs for the d44. if all goes well some 37s or 38s will be supporting that d44. my b2 will be lightened significantly and a 8.8 with super 88 kit will be installed in the rear. (cutting down a fullsize d44 to RBV size).
as i am sure you are aware, a lighter vehicle is not as hard on drivetrain parts so with the upgraded d44 and 8.8 along with a lightened vehicle i should not suffer to much mechanical failure.

86

 

[4x4junkie]

TRUE

because the majority of the parts are the same.

i completely understand that a STOCK d44 is very similar to a stock d35.

I will NOT be running a stock d44. i will be ordering upgraded shafts, a aussie locker and upgraded hubs for the d44. if all goes well some 37s or 38s will be supporting that d44. my b2 will be lightened significantly and a 8.8 with super 88 kit will be installed in the rear. (cutting down a fullsize d44 to RBV size).
as i am sure you are aware, a lighter vehicle is not as hard on drivetrain parts so with the upgraded d44 and 8.8 along with a lightened vehicle i should not suffer to much mechanical failure.

86

Why not a D60? All that upgrade stuff's gonna end up costing about the same anyway...

 

[souldoubt88]

Knowing how you beat it atleast.

 

[86ford]

Why not a D60? All that upgrade stuff's gonna end up costing about the same anyway...

because i am going to be stuck dumping money into the d60 anyway because i am going to be cutting the passenger tube down so its RBV width. SO i will need at least one custom shaft, still need a locker of some sort. then i need to get a rear, cut that down to RBV width.

1) i would prefer to only cut down one axle instead of 2.
2) a d60 and 14bff weight 800-900 lbs together compared to 300-350 for a 8.8/44
3) parts are MUCH harder to find and MUCH more expensive for d60/14bff
4) d44/8.8 combo costs 800-1000 dollars outfitted the way i want them. d60/14bff combo costs that much just for the axles...
5) d44/8.8 would be a much more common lug pattern 5 on 5.5


86

 

[Evan]

I will NOT be running a stock d44. i will be ordering upgraded shafts, a aussie locker and upgraded hubs for the d44.

But you can make nearly the same upgrades to the 35. You can upgrade the hubs to premium 44 hubs, you can throw a lunchbox locker in there, and you can upgrade the outer shafts. The inner shafts are already thicker than that of a 44, so they need no upgrading.

 

[86ford]

But you can make nearly the same upgrades to the 35. You can upgrade the hubs to premium 44 hubs, you can throw a lunchbox locker in there, and you can upgrade the outer shafts. The inner shafts are already thicker than that of a 44, so they need no upgrading.

dont worry i will be wheeling my d35 until it explodes. the d44 will not be going in until it fails completely(we are not talking about a broken hub or shaft here)

you did skip over a few facts, TTB steering is not acceptable for a power wheels it sucks so bad.

TTB works just as well as snow/mud plow as it does a diff.

TTB has a extra inner joint to fail

D35 cant be geared to 513 or above. since i will not be running a doubler or an atlas i have to go with at least 513s in both diffs to run 37s or 38s effectively even with a 4.0

with that being said, my d35 continues to serve me very well other than needing to drain the diff every time i go out because it looks like a vanilla milk shake i am very happy with it. IF I buy 37s and my d35 keeps chugging along i wont swap it out yet. the biggest issues get addressed first! my beat to hell and back 2.9 is first on the chopping block.

Evan you are welcome to come wheel with me and show me how stupid I am after i swap in the d44. If you prove me wrong, I will admit it.

86

 

[Mechanickid]

85 and older Yota solid axles.

 

[4x4junkie]

because i am going to be stuck dumping money into the d60 anyway because i am going to be cutting the passenger tube down so its RBV width. SO i will need at least one custom shaft, still need a locker of some sort. then i need to get a rear, cut that down to RBV width.

1) i would prefer to only cut down one axle instead of 2.
2) a d60 and 14bff weight 800-900 lbs together compared to 300-350 for a 8.8/44
3) parts are MUCH harder to find and MUCH more expensive for d60/14bff
4) d44/8.8 combo costs 800-1000 dollars outfitted the way i want them. d60/14bff combo costs that much just for the axles...
5) d44/8.8 would be a much more common lug pattern 5 on 5.5


86

1
Get a D70 dually rear, you shouldn't need to narrow that (I think they're around 62" WMS-WMS?)

2
A D44 alone is 275lbs, the 8.8 about 180. A Ford 60 adds maybe another 200-225lbs over the 44 (plus it's weight down low, keeps you from tipping as easy).

3
Maybe in a junkyard parts are harder to find... doubtful you'd be breaking it often though.

4
But those axles stock are just as strong (or stronger), so what's the issue?

5
5x5.5" lug patterns are also available for the 60, although this would add some cost.

 

[86ford]

1
Get a D70 dually rear, you shouldn't need to narrow that (I think they're around 62" WMS-WMS?)

2
A D44 alone is 275lbs, the 8.8 about 180. A Ford 60 adds maybe another 200-225lbs over the 44 (plus it's weight down low, keeps you from tipping as easy).

3
Maybe in a junkyard parts are harder to find... doubtful you'd be breaking it often though.

4
But those axles stock are just as strong (or stronger), so what's the issue?

5
5x5.5" lug patterns are also available for the 60, although this would add some cost.

IF anyone other than YOU (junkie) and Evan were debating this with me I would just discard it. BUT since it is you guys i will do some research into a d60 front and a 70 rear. my fears with a d60/70 combo is that I will still be running the 4.0 and that will be 1000 pounds more weight BEFORE i get 38s. I still do not have plans to run a doubler so i NEED to get all my gearing from my axles, hence the reason i am trying to keep the weight down. the tear down of the b2 is planned for august 1st and to be completed sept 1st. unless the funds are not there OR the b2s ole 2.9 pukes its guts before then. My other fear is the b2 body becoming so abused I start worrying about its integrity...

86