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Warning - blasphemous swap inquiry


Ford 3.8's didn't have head gasket problems until 95 when they changed the coolant flow for front wheel drive applications, the rear wheel drive cars were fine. Ford 3.8's should be capable of making some power because the heads have way better ports than 302's ever got.
 
I've never been a Buick fan, my uncle worked at a Buick/ Olds dealer for 40 years, drove Oldsmobiles (and raced Ford flatheads), and called Buicks slush boxes. Late 50's to mid 60's nailheads made good torque and were narrow so they are/were popular with the streetrod guys, maybe they'd work good in a Ranger, too. Buick 455's weigh about the same as an orange painted grenade (SBC) and made 500 lb/ft of torque at 2000 rpms. They went out of production in about 76 so scarcity would be reflected in the price.
 
Well, finally have an update. Just picked up a blow-through turbo V6 out of an 83 Buick Regal T-Type with 200R4 trans. The engine/trans are bolted together on a home made stand and the guy I got it from says it will run on the stand. I'm hoping to start pulling the 2.9 & trans out of the ranger soon and will set them side by side to I can do some measuring and mock-up.

Not sure whether I will use the turbo. I didn't get the computer, and without it it's evidently difficult to tune the carb properly. This version of the engine didn't have the power of the intercooled 84 and up setups. Plus the turbo takes up more room so not even sure if it will fit properly. Not worried about making it super powerful - I'm putting a 455 down in my 84 Olds Cutlass for that.

I've been looking at doing the 8.8 swap from an explorer. The truck currently has a 7.5 with 3:57 open gears, and I'd like to move up to 3:73 or 4:10 so it may just be better to do the swap. Does anyone know if the 7.5 to 8.8 changes the length of the drive shaft? Would rather not have to have the one I will need made shortened if there is a difference.

My biggest debate will be whether I want to rebuild everything or just start putting it in.
 
Please rebuild everything first. It would suck to get it all together and find a major problem. Do it right once or do it again, when I trust without verifying it always bites me.
 
The only bad thing about the exploder 8.8 is the 2 inch offset. If you are looking to lift that front end off the ground you should get the axle tubes corrected and axles... but I have one it seem to be fine though for my 5.0 90
 
I wouldn't waste time putting an Explorer 8.8 in a 2wd truck with a V6/auto especially if you're just going to run 3.73s or 4.10s which are both available at junkyards in both 7.5 and 8.8s. The 7.5 will hold up to a fairly remarkable amount of abuse.
 
I wouldn't waste time putting an Explorer 8.8 in a 2wd truck with a V6/auto especially if you're just going to run 3.73s or 4.10s which are both available at junkyards in both 7.5 and 8.8s. The 7.5 will hold up to a fairly remarkable amount of abuse.

I want to swap rears for 2 reasons. I want to change ratios to probably 4.10s since I will likely use tall tires(like 255/70/15s). The second reason is because I want to swap the axle under the springs. I've never been a big fan of having the rear on top of the springs. Puttng a 4x4 Ranger rear will allow me to do that without have to mod it.

Having looked at how much work it is to swap in an Explorer rear I will probaly get an 8.8 out of a ranger to make it simpler. Biggest choice now is whether to go with the 10" drums or swap to rear discs......

I can get a 8.8" out of a 94 4x4 locally for about $250.
 
I want to swap rears for 2 reasons. I want to change ratios to probably 4.10s since I will likely use tall tires(like 255/70/15s). The second reason is because I want to swap the axle under the springs. I've never been a big fan of having the rear on top of the springs. Putting a 4x4 Ranger rear will allow me to do that without have to mod it.

Having looked at how much work it is to swap in an Explorer rear I will probably get an 8.8 out of a ranger to make it simpler. Biggest choice now is whether to go with the 10" drums or swap to rear discs......

I can get a 8.8" out of a 94 4x4 locally for about $250.
You lost me, Larry:
A 4x4 Ranger rear end is identical to a 4x2 Ranger one*. The difference is the 4x4 has 2" blocks between the axle and the springs. In both cases, the axle is under the springs.​
The Explorer rear end is set up for spring under axle.​
Note 1: Explorer axle will be 3" wider than your stock axle (1-1/2"/side), which may/may not affect your sense of aesthetics.​
Note 2: All Rangers & Explorers have the differential pinion offset 2" to the right. In Bronco IIs, its only 1-1/4".​
Note 3: FWIW. the Axle page in the Tech Library says the 7.5 and 8.8 have the same axle center line to u-joint center line. What is missing from the tech page is the hypoid distance is only 1" on the 7.5". So, there would be a subtle change in driveshaft length - Pythagorean Theorem thing. Ford made the stock drive shaft short enough that it doesn't matter which axle they installed, one part number worked.​
Note 4: Changing to spring under axle will lower your truck ~5" if you don't do anything else. DJM sells longer rear shackles that would reduce the lowering to only 3". Lowering also makes a subtle change in driveshaft length.​
Note 5: Only real issue with installing Explorer differential is the re-connection of the parking brake cables - some people it just works, some, it needs a little 'creativity' to get tension. Using the Explorer u-bolts and mounting plates, the axle bolts right up to the springs, assuming you use 2 Explorer driver's side mounting plates, the shocks bolt up.​
*Assuming same year range, same ratio, same brake drums, same open/trac-lok differential.
 
Agreed with everything Don said.

I will also add a couple more things:

- Sprung UNDER trucks (like the Explorer) ride and handle significantly better than sprung OVER trucks like the Ranger/Bronco II
- Ranger 8.8 axle also has 28 spline shafts (unless you get one from an FX4 truck.) Just like the 7.5, you're not gaining much in terms of strength but limited slips are more common in 8.8s
- 7.5s can be found with both 9" and 10" drums
- First gen (83-88) and '89 Rangers may have a different rear pinion flange than 90 and up, meaning that your existing driveshaft may not bolt onto your new axle (easily solved by drilling and tapping new holes in the pinion flange.)

$250 for a Ranger axle is highway robbery unless it's in super good shape and has new brakes already on it. Our pick-n-pull sells rear axles for $150, I have never been able to get more than about a hundred bucks for any Ranger axle I sold. Brake parts, seals, etc add up fast... just sayin...
 
You lost me, Larry:
A 4x4 Ranger rear end is identical to a 4x2 Ranger one*. The difference is the 4x4 has 2" blocks between the axle and the springs. In both cases, the axle is under the springs.​
I thought sure my 87 4x2 was over the leafs. Guess I am wrong. Will have to look when I get back to it. It's been sitting for about 5 years unfortunately. Guess my advanced age has messed with my memory....... Anyway, that's why you ask questions....to either reinforce your self or get corrected....​
 
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$250 for a Ranger axle is highway robbery unless it's in super good shape and has new brakes already on it. Our pick-n-pull sells rear axles for $150, I have never been able to get more than about a hundred bucks for any Ranger axle I sold. Brake parts, seals, etc add up fast... just sayin...

Agree with a lot of what you are saying, but when I did a quick seach on car-part.com, the closest to me was 85 miles and $250. The cheapest listed is $225(380 miles) and go up to $500. That's for the 94 ranger 8.8 with 4:10 and 10" brakes(didn't specify if it was limited slip though). I've looked on craigslist but didn't find anything within 200 miles of me.

Anyway, since there is no difference in the location of the flange, the rear end change out will likely wait. When I have a driveshaft made for it, it will interchange. For my Olds Cutlass, changing to the 10 bolt 8.5" requires changing the drive shaft because the flange is forward of the stock rear. Since it's the same place with the Rangers it's not an issue. Of course, my car has a posi 2.14 ratio and to go over 2.79, you have to switch to a different carrier anyway.
 
What's your location? Perhaps there is someone on here close to you that would help ya out... I'm sure I'm not the only one with a pile of Ranger axles behind my shop. :D
 
So as I am considering doing the same Buick Draw-thru turbo setup on my son's 88STX SC 4x4- I was wondering how the build progressed? Any updates, please?
 
Well, finally have an update. Just picked up a blow-through turbo V6 out of an 83 Buick Regal T-Type with 200R4 trans. The engine/trans are bolted together on a home made stand and the guy I got it from says it will run on the stand. I'm hoping to start pulling the 2.9 & trans out of the ranger soon and will set them side by side to I can do some measuring and mock-up.

Not sure whether I will use the turbo. I didn't get the computer, and without it it's evidently difficult to tune the carb properly. This version of the engine didn't have the power of the intercooled 84 and up setups. Plus the turbo takes up more room so not even sure if it will fit properly. Not worried about making it super powerful - I'm putting a 455 down in my 84 Olds Cutlass for that.

I've been looking at doing the 8.8 swap from an explorer. The truck currently has a 7.5 with 3:57 open gears, and I'd like to move up to 3:73 or 4:10 so it may just be better to do the swap. Does anyone know if the 7.5 to 8.8 changes the length of the drive shaft? Would rather not have to have the one I will need made shortened if there is a difference.

My biggest debate will be whether I want to rebuild everything or just start putting it in.
take some photos. get it running a video would be nice.
 
take some photos. get it running a video would be nice.

Ditto on Video
I will as my son and I are just starting a similar swap w/ a 79 serup on an 85 Lognblock Buick 3.8 Turbo in an 88 Ranger STX 4x4 Roller.

The turbo setup you have would be the best of the draw-thru years...I have heard of people using a Holley engine management box on these as well, OR you could find a 4.1 Stock 4bbl intake or get an Edelbrock Performer if you wanna go NA 4bbl or Throttle body injected...
 

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