Valve covers: baffled vs unbaffled

[85_Ranger4x4]

I have been eyeing a pair of aluminum valve covers for quite awhile, I just ordered them from Summit... and of course right after I pulled the trigger on them I noticed they are not baffled.

I am running a closed PCV system (PCV and oil cap with a hose going to the air filter housing) is this going to cause a problem with oil getting sucked up?

The engine runs good and seems fairly tight but isn't new by any means...

 

[RonD]

Yes, baffled would have been better, but you can add one
Good article here on what kind of baffle would be best, test vehicle has a 302(5.0l)
http://mewagner.com/?page_id=1221

Non-baffled valve covers are needed when you modify the valve train and "normal" baffles get in the way.

 

[Teddyzee]

I removed the baffle temporarily on my stock covers, and the engine ingested a ton (gallon?) of oil.
I modded the stock baffle to clear my larger 1.7:1 roller rockers.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Do they usually come with provisions to mount a baffle?

Just adding a couple pieces of tin and a few screws wouldn't take anything if they have the holes there to mount them. If it is just a bare cover I think they are going back.

These are what I got myself into:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CAL-188520

 

[RonD]

No, you would have to drill holes to mount a baffle, as per article above, the baffle design is important.

So if you don't feel comfortable making a baffle and drilling the holes then I would replace with baffled valve covers

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Drilling holes is nothing, I don't see how you could get it to seal very well with the ribs on the outside.

 

[RonD]

There would be a few ways.
Drill pilot hole between fins then correct size hole from under side.
You only need 2 holes per baffle.

Any sealing of the holes will be done on the underside surface, cork or rubber washer, lock-tight on the threads.

I am sure you have seen the tall wing nut style valve cover hold downs used, there are many variations of "long nut" round type fasteners that could be used on the fin side, or even a nice plate against the top of the fins.

Google: furniture fasteners
There are many types of unique "nut/bolt" pairs that would have a nice look.
There are some the have the "nut part" as a round cylinder with the threaded part through the side of the cylinder, with the right size this should fit down between the fins, maybe
You want the bolt on the under side not the nut, for the obvious reason that if the bolt should drop into the valve train area it is not "as likely" to hurt anything, and could be recovered by removing the valve cover.

Another option is to make up the baffle plates and take them to a shop that can spot weld them to the underside of the valve cover, so basically get a 2-3" wide thin metal strip about 6" long and bend up both ends at 1-1.5" mark, trim to fit curve of inside valve cover and have them tack/spot welded to the covers

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

In the pics the ribs look pretty close together, I doubt there is much of a flat area between them.

Only time will tell, but hey maybe there are threaded bosses cast into the inside too.

I really do appreciate your help, right now I just don't think it is worth messing with.

 

[RonD]

Had another thought, just to ponder.

Replace one, or two, of the rocker bolts, directly under the PCV and oil filler holes, with a bolt/stud and attach a plate to that, so not part of the valve cover at all.
Something like this:
http://www.busytrade.com/selling-le...-Stud-Bolt-double-End-Studs.html#.Up5aZ-Iiy6o

You can still set the valve lash and then use double nuts to set height of plate.
One per baffle should do it, it is just to stop splashing directly on the openings

 

[Teddyzee]

A simpler option is to Google "Valve cover baffle".
There are many simple, easy, cheap options available. No need to re-invent the wheel!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

They came in today.

They have fancy grommets, they have a kinda odd size hole but they are intended to keep oil from getting sucked up.

I got to thinking... "that might work" so I start looking them over. I see this.

One end of both covers look like this:

The other end of both covers look like this:

So I go over to the 289 lamp in the corner of my living room to see if they fit better than they look like they would.

The corners drag on the side of the cover sneaking it on with an open end wrench (which is totally not feasable in my truck) I could get different bolts but there is no way for them to bear evenly on the valve cover on the one end. This is only on the two very outside bolts on both covers, the one would be below the heater box and the other would be under the power steering pump where they would be kinda hard to keep close tabs on (worried about them backing out)

They do look pretty sharp though. All the holes line up, too bad they couldn't get the dimples in the right place.

No country of origin on the box but this was between the two in the box:

It is also kinda odd, I got a '78 302 years ago that was wore out and full of sludge, these new valve covers have the same smell as that thing did.

 

[dangerranger83]

Who knows how long those have been sitting on a shelf in some warehouse.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Who knows how long those have been sitting on a shelf in some warehouse.

I got home last night and the smell about took my breath away when I stepped into the house, I think it is the low grade grommets that reek like old dead oil.

I found something that looks the same but has better machined holes and bolt in baffles for $15 cheaper on Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBF-FINNED-...-0L-FITS-SB-FORD-MUSTANG-FALCON-/140857976604