Vacuum line routing, A/C troubleshooting

[theBlake]

I'm troubleshooting my A/C. I know this is a common problem, but I have yet to find a detailed guide on exactly how to route these lines. I was able to find intact vacuum lines off a '98 Ranger 2.5L at Pull-A-Part, so I can take pictures of those lines to help someone find the correct routing (at least for my generation's 2.5). I did have to make a semi-educated guess as far as the lines going in/out of the firewall, and the lines going to/from the ball. Here are some pics of what I've got...

1: Starting on the driver side, there's a yellow line connecting to the underside of the "EVAP service port"(?, maybe, according to the diagram on the radiator support)

2/3: The yellow line connects to this medieval cluster-f*ck of other lines, which connect to the intake

4/5: The cluster wraps behind the EGR and to the left side of the throttle body, there's a single line that pokes out of the cluster here and connects to the top of the EGR

6/7/8: Follow the cluster down the left side of the valve cover, then it makes a 90° turn between the coil packs, and then connects two lines to the EGR solenoid (I think that's what it's called)

**This is where I'm not 100% sure**
9/10/11: The remaining line runs to the top port if the vacuum testicle, which should be mounted inside the passenger side fender, behind the passenger side headlamp assembly (mine, originally, was sitting gently behind my washer/radiator fluid reservoir)

11/12: The line coming out the bottom port of the testicle goes into the firewall (it's a gray line, although I had to Frankenstein some sh*t together to make sure I had the length I needed)

12/13/14/15/16: The black line coming out of the firewall snakes up behind the accumulator, down and over and plugs to some thing attached to the coolant lines that go into the firewall

Mind you, this is how mine is right now... and my heat/AC blows out the defrost 99% and there's a faint 1% or less coming out the vents, no matter what fan speed.

So I'm about to see what happens when I switch the black line, coming out the firewall, from the radiator hoses to the bottom port of the ball, and I guess I'll just run the line that's in there now over to the radiator hoses. Wish me luck!

Hope this helps someone... I'd searched forever trying to find correct routing for these in the past. Nabbing the lines off that '98 helped, so at least I know they're correct from the "EVAP service port" to the EGR solenoid... I think. Just gotta figure out what problem is left. Ball isn't cracked as far as I can tell. I have yet to thoroughly examine the lines behind the glove box, so that'll be my next step before I mess with the ball.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated, and I am prepared to write an IOU for a pat-on-the-back, maybe even a high five.

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[theBlake]

Checked the lines coming in under the glove box... looks fine.

Just got done playing around with the ball. No change in how the vents blow, although I noticed a slight change in RPM.

When I switched the black line (coming out the firewall) from the twin radiator hoses to the top port on the ball, and the original top-port line to the radiator lines... I was idling at around 650-700rpm.

When I switch it back to how I've had it I idle at 720-750rpm.

Either way I'm still getting only defrost. I remember someone saying something about the top port of the ball being connected to the intake??? Some random post I read somewhere. Wish I could find a legit, detailed diagram of exactly how to run these lines.

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[theBlake]

Couldn't go to bed without trying something else. Pulled the lines off (except for the two going in the firewall) and sprayed em all out, including all the connectors and elbows and such. Only the tiniest amount of residue came out of a couple, nowhere near enough to cause any concern, more than likely just residue near the tip.

So, I'll put em back on tomorrow and try running some tests to see if one of the related components has gone bad or needs servicing (EGR, solenoid, DPMD or whatever that thing's called, "EVAP service port", or the plastic testicle... plasticle).

Wish me luck!

 

[tomw]

I posted on your frame swap about the vacuum line stuff. Did you find a check valve in the mess? Was there any sort of diagram on the radiator support or the bottom side of the hood? If not, try searching for an image of 'vacuum line routing Ford Ranger 1999' or similar and you may find what you need.
If all else fails, try finding a EVTM - Electrical Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual, you'll thank yourself each time you have a problem. It is a 1/4" thick paper bound with all sorts of electrical diagrams and vacuum stuff. Year specific, but close counts, or it may span more than one year. Changes year over year were kept to a minimum for the most part, except when the 'base' model changed. If you have the owners manual, the may be a listing near the back to order service manuals, or you may find them or a "CD" on the web.
The sphere is the vacuum reservoir. It will/should have a check valve in-line back to the vacuum source. There will be a TEE that connects to the sphere, the vacuum operated control, and the vacuum source with the check valve 'in-line'. The heater control line should apply vacuum to a valve diaphragm when in 'heat' mode(non-A/C modes) to open the valve. The valve diaphragm pulls on a lever that operates a sleazy valve to slow/stop the flow of hot coolant into the heater core, making the A/C more effective. The valves are noted to a)leak and b)stick. Aftermarket are worse, from what I have read. Some remove them, others use an actual valve you operate manually. If you got fancy, you could find a cable-operated valve that would likely work.
Anyway, the two lines you are swapping may have one for the valve, which would be 'switchable' to open or close the valve(it is spring loaded, I think).
tom

 

[theBlake]

I do still have the diagram on the radiator support, although I've had trouble figuring it out. But as far as what it shows, my lines are hooked up "correctly", but I'm not sure about the 'CCD'.

I tried switching the gray line over to the heater hoses and the black line to the bottom port of the ball, with the top port connecting to the intake vacuum (with that cluster of connectors near the EGR)... idle was higher, started at 1000-1100. When I first opened the door the engine surged a bit, so I closed it and sat and watched my RPMs gradually drop down to the 720-770 range. Still blowing out defrost.

I'm not finding a check valve outside of the ball, although I've read somewhere that the check valve is inside the ball. Haven't found an EVTM yet, still looking. My Haynes manual doesn't have any vacuum diagrams, just wiring.

I may have to order one of those shop manuals on a disc this weekend if I can't find a solution.

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