V8 conversion Help!!

[dpoole91]

ok guys im new to the forum and have a few qs i need answered for a swap im trying to perform within the next fer months. i have a 1992 ford ranger 2wd automatic im trying to put a v8 in. the donor drivetrain is a 1994 5.0 ho engine and t5. the tricky part is im trying to go efi to carb conversion. what components do i need to run the 302 ho on a carb? do i need to change the steering column since im going from auto to a t5? any parts i need to get fot the tranny ior is it a drop in swap? please help me guys, im trying to get my ranger to haul ass within the next month

 

[kryptonitecb]

Off topic and out of curiosity, why do you want to go to a carb version? EFI has more power, fuel efficiency, and more reliable. Seems a bit silly to go backwards.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

 

[baddad457]

Off topic and out of curiosity, why do you want to go to a carb version? EFI has more power, fuel efficiency, and more reliable. Seems a bit silly to go backwards.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

Seems a bit silly to say all that texting while driving Some don't want to screw with EFI and the headaches that can cause. The fuel mileage difference can be marginal, to say the least. Mileage after a V8 swap is finished WILL decrease, simply due to the weight gained in your right foot upon starting the V8 for the first time. The only other time EFI will shine over a carb is if you live in an area where you can change altitudes measured in thousands of feet.

 

[dpoole91]

the efi 5.0 gets around 240 to the crank wheras the the carbed version gets over 300. its a good trade off considering the hp advantage. i understand efi beats carb in terms of driveability bt were talking about the 5.0ho engine. to get decent numbers from the engine there would have to be a pretty decent chunk of change dropped in it and by then its feul economy would be just as good as a carbed engine. oppinions aside, i know id have to change the manifold, valve covers, distributor and..? cam gear? idk help me guys!!!

 

[lairdt]

ok guys im new to the forum and have a few qs i need answered for a swap im trying to perform within the next fer months. i have a 1992 ford ranger 2wd automatic im trying to put a v8 in. the donor drivetrain is a 1994 5.0 ho engine and t5. the tricky part is im trying to go efi to carb conversion. what components do i need to run the 302 ho on a carb? ...

I'm doing the same swap in a few months myself into my '91. From an engine standpoint all you need is: 4bbl carb, 4bbl intake manifold, non-efi distributor with steel geer, and an ignition. To get it to fit you need engine mounts, exhaust manifolds, radiator, .... Check the sticky on swaps and swap costs and you'll find most everything.

 

[baddad457]

i understand efi beats carb in terms of driveability

That depends on what cam, ignition and carb you choose. Use an EFI cam, a good, hot electroninc ignition and a small-ish sized carb and the driveability is the same as an EFI. The last motor I had in my Ranger before I sold it was basically an Explorer level 5.0 (same cam, compression, but with ported E7 heads) topped with a Ford A321 intake (high rise dual plane, aka the old 1960's era "Cobra" intake) Topped with a Holley 570 Street Avenger, fired by a Crane XR-1 and Mallory Promaster coil. If you drove it and never popped the hood, you'd swear it was an EFI motor.

 

[89Ranger5.0]

To end the efi Carb debate.

Op: you will need an intake for Carb 600 is basic. A vac advance (if you want ) distrib, off of an 85 or before stang. A low pressure fuel pump(carter makes one for around 80 with a built in pressure reg. An igtition setup for carb. The t5 will require a hole cut in floor, problem you may run into is 94/95 bell housing is longer and fatter than pre 94 stang t5, which limits header choice and makes shifter position a pain. As far as column you can remove just the shifter and be fine.

Just ask other questions, use search bar, tech section, and check other builds lots of info inside

 

[dpoole91]

cool stuff

To end the efi Carb debate.

Op: you will need an intake for Carb 600 is basic. A vac advance (if you want ) distrib, off of an 85 or before stang. A low pressure fuel pump(carter makes one for around 80 with a built in pressure reg. An igtition setup for carb. The t5 will require a hole cut in floor, problem you may run into is 94/95 bell housing is longer and fatter than pre 94 stang t5, which limits header choice and makes shifter position a pain. As far as column you can remove just the shifter and be fine.

Just ask other questions, use search bar, tech section, and check other builds lots of info inside

thats alot of good info guys, thanks alot and keep it coming if you can. idk bout the mild cam, im trying to have this mild but still wild. im thinking a edlbrock air gap intake, 4bbl 600 or 650 carb with vacume secondaries (for feul economy any suggestions btw?) and a e303 cam. i was thinking of upgrading the springs and roller rockers to cobra ratio and mild porting. im sure id have a little cash left over any suggestions for what else i should get? valves or push rods? should i invest in a different t5 to open my header options? even if i use the e7 heads will i have clearance probs with headers and spark plugs? will the t5 hold up to all these new ponys? its gona be my dd guys so help a brotha out hahaha. oh and any tips on the what kind of belt and pulley arrangement i can get, i dont mind using junkyard parts , the only cherry part of my project is the engine, its gona be a sleeper. again guys ur info and opinions mean alot

 

[89Ranger5.0]

I would absolutely use a pre 94 t5. U can sawing input shaft and bell housing to the one you have and be done.

Matching heads/cam/ intake is the key ingredients to make your truck run as it should

A air gap is a good intake but is a bit much for e7 heads. And an e cam will require valve springs so prevent valave float. Let alone using 1.7 ratio.

Suggestion is a typical cheap/junkyard proven build.

-gt40 explorer (non p)
- Ford motorsport valve springs (I Can give you a part number)
-e cam (there are plenty of better choices bit these are common)
-weind stealth or an rpm performer
- 600 or 650 vac secondary double
-85 or before Mustang distrib
- tri y heads for a60s stang

I can do my best to help keep the questions coming.

U can pm me too

-damon

 

[baddad457]

If you want wild and still have good bottomend, use a B cam, 1.7 rockers(.510 lift) and any of the high rise dual planes (air gap included) Top it with a 570 Street Avenger. Heads are a matter of personal preference, or in otherwords, run what you can afford. The B cam's got a healthy lope at idle speeds and still has good bottomend.

 

[fastpakr]

the efi 5.0 gets around 240 to the crank wheras the the carbed version gets over 300. its a good trade off considering the hp advantage. i understand efi beats carb in terms of driveability bt were talking about the 5.0ho engine. to get decent numbers from the engine there would have to be a pretty decent chunk of change dropped in it and by then its feul economy would be just as good as a carbed engine. oppinions aside, i know id have to change the manifold, valve covers, distributor and..? cam gear? idk help me guys!!!

If one makes 60hp over the other, there's a lot more different than just the fuel system.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

the efi 5.0 gets around 240 to the crank wheras the the carbed version gets over 300. its a good trade off considering the hp advantage. i understand efi beats carb in terms of driveability bt were talking about the 5.0ho engine. to get decent numbers from the engine there would have to be a pretty decent chunk of change dropped in it and by then its feul economy would be just as good as a carbed engine. oppinions aside, i know id have to change the manifold, valve covers, distributor and..? cam gear? idk help me guys!!!

Where in the world are you getting your numbers at?

Most EFI 5.0's ranged from 150 land yachts to 240hp Cobras. EFI HO's were all 200hp+.

The vast majority of factory carbed 302's were doing good to hit 140hp, aside from the few in the late 60's and early 70's (which are likely far past their prime by now) Most of the early ones were rated gross hp, which is as much as the bare engine can put out, starting in the early 70's they went to net which is real world with the accessories... so ratings dropped. You can't compare straight up because of that.

If you run a roller cam you need a steel distributor gear, flat tappet needs a cast iron gear.

EFI is simpler in the fact that if you have it set it up right it learns by itself rather than needing somebody with some knowlage about how a carb works fiddling with jets... and once you get your carb set perfect it can't adjust for different elevations or weather conditions so it never really is 100% perfect.

Carbs are simpler because you slap on a hunk of aluminum with a fuel line, run a couple wires to the dizzy and you have a runner. It won't run as precise as EFI and it won't like running on an angle as well (for offroaders) and IMO it will take more intimate knowlage about how things work to get the best performance out of it.

 

[baddad457]

Setting up a carb isn't as complicated as 85_ranger4x4 thinks. The angle thing depends on the carb and the severity of the angle involved. "fiddling" with jets is no more complicated than reading the spark plugs. And not all EFI systems "learn" by themselves. You are right about the elevation changes, but wrong about the weather. My engines with carbs run the same, no matter the weather. Weather changes would affect points ignitions, which when run with a carb, could be construed to be a carb problem, when in actuality was the points being affected by the changes in the weather (humidity) A carb set up WILL run better when fed cool, damp air though.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Setting up a carb isn't as complicated as 85_ranger4x4 thinks. The angle thing depends on the carb and the severity of the angle involved. "fiddling" with jets is no more complicated than reading the spark plugs. And not all EFI systems "learn" by themselves. You are right about the elevation changes, but wrong about the weather. My engines with carbs run the same, no matter the weather. Weather changes would affect points ignitions, which when run with a carb, could be construed to be a carb problem, when in actuality was the points being affected by the changes in the weather (humidity) A carb set up WILL run better when fed cool, damp air though.

In parts of the country where the weather swings 100+ degrees it makes a difference. What runs nice in the summer, runs lean in the winter, what runs nice in the winter runs rich in the summer. Don't forget to throw in humidity that can almost support aquatic life in the summer and dry enough to make your hands bleed in the winter too.

Biannual carb settings are mandatory if you run them much in both extremes.

I am reading spark plugs in my Ranger and keeping it set right, I just hop in my EFI F-150 and only see the plugs every 75k whether they need it or not.

 

[dpoole91]

In parts of the country where the weather swings 100+ degrees it makes a difference. What runs nice in the summer, runs lean in the winter, what runs nice in the winter runs rich in the summer. Don't forget to throw in humidity that can almost support aquatic life in the summer and dry enough to make your hands bleed in the winter too.

Biannual carb settings are mandatory if you run them much in both extremes.

I am reading spark plugs in my Ranger and keeping it set right, I just hop in my EFI F-150 and only see the plugs every 75k whether they need it or not.

im gettting my numbers from fomocos rating of the ho engine for that year, cobras have a gt40 manifold and upgraded springs and rockers so they arnt quite the same as my motor. and if you are trying to contest that 1970 302 engines arnt well known to push out 280 to 290 ponys stock with a better carb you musnt know much about muscle cars my friend. im also running a performance manifold 600cfm carb to drown it with gas and some head work. imo opinion the truck will haul and run better than a efi granted proper tuning. my motors in decent shape just i hate bothering with all the sensors and wiring associated with efi, and btw what must i do to make my tranny work? change the bell housing? i heard the e7 heads are better than gt40 with some mild porting and gasket matching.