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Two Issues: Driveshaft & Steering Stabilizer


I second the Kroil, very good stuff.

If all else fails, get a bigger hammer!
 
OK one more for ya:

I ended up using my feet to get the bolts out; it was tough but theyre all out without any stripping.

So I am taking out the crossmember that supports the carrier bearing. Ive gotten all the rivets out, and Ive gotten one of the tabs out from the frame. Now I wasnt able to spend more than 15 min on it, but how do you guys pull out the x-member? I can tell its gonna be a PITA.

Once that is out, though, I've got 3 min left on the job!
 
X3 on the kroil. Been using it for over 20 years, I first ran across it in Prudhoe Bay the oil patch loves it.
 
Aerokroil is the best unconditionally nothing else is even comparable. It's expensive and worth it. It's pretty much the only product used in heavy industry and it's not illegal in Calif. Its high solvency will permeate your skin is why it isn't generally available. Try an industrial supply house. WD40 is little more than diesel with a scent added to make it less repugnant to your nose.
 
As much as I appreciate seeing the love for Aerokroil....




Bump (the below)!

OK one more for ya:

I ended up using my feet to get the bolts out; it was tough but theyre all out without any stripping.

So I am taking out the crossmember that supports the carrier bearing. Ive gotten all the rivets out, and Ive gotten one of the tabs out from the frame. Now I wasnt able to spend more than 15 min on it, but how do you guys pull out the x-member? I can tell its gonna be a PITA.

Once that is out, though, I've got 3 min left on the job!
 
you have to use a screwdriver of a pry tool to pop the tabs by the slots, then its just a matter of pushing one end till it gets stuck and then the other end the other way.
i've been through this myself. i don't really remember exactly how i got it out, but it did eventually come out. i think i used a 3lb hammer to help.
 
you have to use a screwdriver of a pry tool to pop the tabs by the slots, then its just a matter of pushing one end till it gets stuck and then the other end the other way.
i've been through this myself. i don't really remember exactly how i got it out, but it did eventually come out. i think i used a 3lb hammer to help.

I was hoping it wasn't going to be that simple. All is set, thanks for the help.

What a difference now with the 1pc DS. :3gears:
 
Rusty bolts

I heard on one of the car shows that Peroxide works on stubborn nuts and bolts.

Wash off what ever you have sprayed on so far with carb clean and apply Peroxide.
 
Steering Stabilizer issue

So about that steering stabilizer.

My B2 has a 6" Skyjacker Class II lift. New drop'd drop pitman arm, etc.

I went to put on a Rancho steering stabilizer, and lo and behold, the instructions said that if there is any more than 1 1/4" of drop from the pitman arm to the tie rod end, this unit will not work. This is after Central 4wd sold me the kit in July. I couldnt take it back.

I figured I'd give it a try, and if it didnt work, I could have my welder buddy create an easy drop bracket for the cross member side.

I was able to get this thing on, and after wheeling and driving around for a few days, it seems to work out fine. Its very close to the tie rod bracket bolts, and where the pitman arm connects to the steering bar. But it works, and looks funky with that angle.

My suggestion: have a welder make a new drop bracket for the cross member side. Make sure it has re-enforcement plates so it doesnt bend due to the long length.

Does anyone know if Skyjacker makes this kind of bracket? Or anyone else?
 
I was going to fab a bracket to mount the stabilizer to one of the original pitman/tierod guards that would keep the angles close to parallel if mounted in front of the pitman on the fixed end and the pass side tierod. It doesn't look like it would create bind like the other kits available. Somebody take a look , see what ya think.
 
I'd have to take some measurements, but it looks like the only way to do it straight is to fab up some sort of exteme-drop plate to mount to the frame.... I need like 6+ inches more of drop if I want to run it parallel.
 

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