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TTB vs TIB


SierraCanine

Well-Known Member
Law Enforcement
EMT / Paramedic
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Apr 24, 2012
Messages
106
City
Sacramento CA
Hey everyone!

I am planning to eventually (once parts are fully acquired) swap a TTB axle in for my TIB so that I can have 4wd. I was wondering if anyone had pictures from various angles of the differrnces in the engine crossmember. I have heard rumors that some older 2wd trucks actually used the 4x4 crossmember and wanted to confirm what differences their were that I would need to concern myself with. I would plan a 6" lift (from stock 4wd height) so I would either use the current crossmember, cut and weld in a new crossmember, or have a friend help me fab up some custom lift brackets that would tie into the current crossmember.

This wouldn't be for "hardcore" offroading, but instead would allow me to do a lot more without fear of getting hung up in the 2wd. I would plan on a straight axled 4x4 with a shorter wheelbase (think Suzuki) for serious offroading, but since money is an issue I would prefer to work on what I have right now and not purchase another vehicle until I can afford to get it to the point that I would need it to be (aux lights, winch, 33's, front/rear lockers, full skid plates, fenders, ect.).

Thanks for any insight on this...
 
I was wondering if anyone had pictures from various angles of the differrnces in the engine crossmember. I have heard rumors that some older 2wd trucks actually used the 4x4 crossmember and wanted to confirm what differences their were that I would need to concern myself with.


You heard wrong. 2wd Rangers never used a 4wd crossmember. 2wd BII's did (along with different beams.)
 
You heard wrong. 2wd Rangers never used a 4wd crossmember. 2wd BII's did (along with different beams.)

I know BII's used the same crossmember whether 2wd or 4wd but I was wondering in regards to the generation 2 rangers since that was what this "rumor" was specifically about. Oh Well:dunno: If I had a BII this would be so much easier but alas I am stuck.

BTW how does the TIB attach to the crossmember of the BII since it is essentially the same as the 4x4. Are the brackets significantly different or are the 2wd front axles different from rangers as compared to the Broncc II?
 
Found these on the tech library on designing your own lift brackets...

picture.php


picture.php


What is different between this and a 2wd crossmember? I was just under my truck not five minutes ago looking and I for the life of me don't see any real differences:icon_confused:.
 
This bracket and both beams are different.
232950_26_full.jpg


There's at least one member here who designed a bracket to mount the passengerside 4x4 beam to the 2WD Ranger crossmember, unfortunately I don't recall his username.

The bracket for the driverside beam (not pictured) is the same 2WD/4x4.
 
The bracket that supports the driverside axle beam. It is located passengerside of the engine.
(bracket in the 1st pic you posted above)
It is the same 2WD/4x4.

The opposite bracket for the passengerside beam (slightly left of engine and rear of crossmember) is the one that is completely different and you would have to modify or build your own bracket to mount the passengerside of a 4WD TTB axle under a 2WD Ranger.
 
Awesome! That is what I was looking for.

Time to start looking for parts...
 
I don't know how it is out in CA to find a cheap BII/Explorer. Around here if you look long enough you can find something that needs some work for around $150-500. My 2000 Ranger I bought brand new, my first truck and it's a 2wd. My second truck was a 1988 BII that needed brake lines, muffler and tailpipe, and a battery and I paid $340 for it. My 89 Choptop was $160 with a 2.9 that cracked a head. My 86 I had cost me $200 with a junk 2.9. My 89 Ranger was $200 with a bad frame. I had an 89 BII Eddie Bauer that I got for $250 - it didn't run but it turned out that the fuel pump wires came disconnected in the tank, cost me around $40 in junkyard parts to get it on the road (spring hanger, headlight assembly, fender), I drove it for 2 years, fixed it up nice and sold it for $1,800. My F-150 ran me $1,500 4 years ago and since I've dumped about $2,600 in parts in it (arguably the worst deal).

I wanted to keep my 2wd Ranger for a commuter/light duty work truck, so I bought a 4x4. Well.... a number of them, lol.
 
switching from a 2wd to a 4wd seems like a lot of work - why not just sell what you've got and buy a 4x4?

You will also have to lift your back end a bit - 4x4 rangers come with 2" blocks in the back from the factory.

Lastly, I assume you were thinking of switching in a d35 and not a d28? "cause the d28s are pretty weak, will be destroyed by 33s, and putting a locker into one is a waste of money (if they even make 'em)
 
switching from a 2wd to a 4wd seems like a lot of work - why not just sell what you've got and buy a 4x4?

You will also have to lift your back end a bit - 4x4 rangers come with 2" blocks in the back from the factory.

Lastly, I assume you were thinking of switching in a d35 and not a d28? "cause the d28s are pretty weak, will be destroyed by 33s, and putting a locker into one is a waste of money (if they even make 'em)
Lockers are available for a D-28.....

But yes, 33's and a locker in a D-28 are a recipe for disaster. I not only snapped the ears that hold the U-joint off, but I also snapped the splined end off inside the diff for the drivers side shaft. BANG.
 
Lockers are available for a D-28.....

But yes, 33's and a locker in a D-28 are a recipe for disaster. I not only snapped the ears that hold the U-joint off, but I also snapped the splined end off inside the diff for the drivers side shaft. BANG.

Many people have destroyed unlocked d28s on 31s or even smaller. Wether or not the locker is available for the d28, it shouldn't be purchased lol
 
Many people have destroyed unlocked d28s on 31s or even smaller. Wether or not the locker is available for the d28, it shouldn't be purchased lol
Not to get too far off topic, but from what I've seen most of the time that a D-28 has been destroyed on a 31" tire or smaller it was typically a U-joint failure - the most common is throwing the caps. Tacking the caps in place or converting to a full-circle clip will largely eliminate the problem.

Of course, I plan to put that theory to the test if I can ever get around to getting my junk fixed...
 
To answer some of your questions.

I would buy a 4x4 but since my truck runs great, I can do virtually all the work myself, and I am permanently attached to her, I plan to use her till she dies, then put in a new engine till she dies again, and again and again. The rock crawler 4x4 is in the future just awaiting funds to purchase a good running samurai. All I need is to drive some dirt roads no matter the weather, where a standard 2wd would get hopelessly stuck and get up the hill to my house in the snow.

In regards to the axle...
Definitely a d35 with, if I'm lucky, a locker and manual hubs. Swap in a stronger rear with lift blocks or new leafs.


The two main reasons I would want to convert my current truck to 4wd is 1) so I have a 4x4 and 2) just to say that I did it.
 
Honestly if you're going to start from scratch and don't have much money why wouldn't you just swap a Dana 30? Seems right up your alley.
 

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