Trying to solve this for a year now

[gaz]

@Paisano
Try a new set of rotors, my go-to brand is POWERSTOP but I will use Raybestos if they are not available and I recommend new pads for them, since you have a pulsing issue. Your rotors are near the end of their use, sounds like they are due for replacement anyway

 

[pjtoledo]

while doing the run out, did you measure both sides? the thickness?
rotors can get fat spots. those cause pulsing.

 

[19Walt93]

I'm assuming it's a 4x4 with rotors separate from the hubs. Before replacing the rotors I'd do one more check. Measure the runout and mark the rotor at the high spot, slide the rotor off, rotate about 1/2 turn, reinstall and recheck. If the high spot is the same the rotor is at fault, if the high spot moved about 1/2 turn, it's the hub.

 

[Paisano]

You are correct . On my make/model, hub and rotor are one piece.
I did these tasks on Saturday:

Checked steering linkage and front suspension......nothing notable
Checked, cleaned, and adjusted front brakes and bearing nuts and added spacer to axle stub.
Checked and cleaned rear drum brakes and adjusted star wheels.
Adjusted rear brakes further by depressing brake pedal with engaging and releasing of parking brake.

No change with the pulsating 'washboard' vibration and I didn't expect any. However, it fixed the excessive brake pedal travel issue I've had for a few years. Hope it's not just temporary.

I can get free brake pads with purchase of brake rotors. Only drawback is my preferred parts store no longer sells ceramic pads for my make model. And I avoid metallic pads because they eat up rotors. I can get ceramic pads at other stores. But I lose my discount

 

[Paisano]

Yes, I measured both sides of the rotors.. I was getting .003 to maybe 004 runout.
And yes. My 92' Ford Ranger XLT is electronic 4X4.
My 4WD has been out of commission for years. I don't need it.

Also, I tried to rock tires at 6 and 12 o'clock positions. Tiny bit of movement.

I may have isolated a high spot on the driver side rotor/hub........in the same place with each rotation.
tighter in one spot when rotating by hand.

 

[SenorNoob]

If your setup is more like the RWD Rangers that the hub and the rotor are all one piece, then lug nut torque eveness is almost completely a nonissue. Never say never, but it's rare to uncommon enough to be heard of.

I've had the opposite experience. If the lugs are significantly over torqued (like what you get when a tires shop just hammers with the impact till the studs ALMOST break), I have bent rotor and hub both times.

 

[Paisano]

I'm getting a couple more parts for a front disc brake overhaul.
It's getting worse. The vibration and pulsation is developing into a 'grabbing and letting go' effect with force.

It's almost like the brake pads are 'slamming and letting go with force' when you are slowing to a stop.

I looked in my engine bay last night, and the mounting bolts on my coolant recovery/washer fluid reservoir backed almost all the way
out! It's from that damn vibration.

I have to work on this no later than next weekend or earlier.
I still work full time.