Truck Doesn't Start

[cubewhiz]

I just replaced clutch master & slave cylinder on my 89 Ranger. For some reason, the truck doesn't start (even when you push the clutch all the way to the floor). I have been able to intermittently start the truck when pushing the clutch all the way to the right and to the floor, but this doesn't always work. The truck also seems to sometimes stall even with the clutch all the way in when in first gear...this is really only a problem because I can't start it back up again.

Any ideas? I feel this has something to do with the Neutral Safety Switch. Is there a way around it?

I'm at work, so I'm hoping to get this figured out before I head home so that I can get home without any problems.

Thanks.

 

[adsm08]

Sounds like it might be NSS related. Go to the yard, find an auto truck from your year, and grab the shorting bar out of the dash harness, plug it into yours, and see if the issue goes away.

 

[cubewhiz]

Update: The clip that holds the pushrod on the pedal is broken. If I push the pushrod on all the way, it solves the problem and the truck starts. I'm getting a new clip tomorrow.

Thanks.

 

[adsm08]

Or that.

 

[doorgunner]

is it too late for me to suggest a solution???????









(but seriously....thanks for the update/fix)

 

[cubewhiz]

Replaced the clip, problem persists. It seems if the pushrod is not given a little extra push towards the pedal, the truck doesn't start. However, pushing the pushrod on that extra little 1/16" or less, truck starts. How exactly does this switch work? Perhaps the contacts aren't lining up correctly? :/ I replaced the switch (the one on the pedal assembly) with a new one, so the switch itself is not the issue.

 

[robertc1024]

Not exactly sure - mine just plugged onto the master cylinder and had a socket that the wiring plugged into.

WARNING - I completely trashed one master cylinder when I tried to get the rod out. I was stupidly fiddling around and snapped the rod into the master and couldn't get it back out. If you have to replace/remove the switch, maybe somebody on here can suggest how to remove the rod? There were little spring clip fingers inside the M/C piston that looked like you could press in if you had a small diameter, thin walled tube - it would sort of be what the gas-line fitting removal tool looks like, but smaller.

 

[cubewhiz]

Okay, an update.

The truck only starts when I push the clutch all the way to the firewall, and then a little further. I am also having shifting issues now. In order to shift into first from a standstill, I have to push the clutch pedal in way further than I had to before. The only changes were the master cylinder and slave cylinder. Maybe it's not bled correctly? Is there any difference between the M5OD and FM146 slave? I put an 89 slave in because I had serious trouble with bleeding the other slave (the line kept popping out and the clip kept popping off).