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toyota 8in


I think you need to think through what you're wanting to do here a bit more (and get a more reliable source for your info as well).

If you flip the housing without turning the knuckles back over, your steering inclination angle would be totally bass-ackwards (and who knows if the kingpin bearings would tolerate being loaded from the wrong side). Not gonna work, although if you still want to check it out for yourself, that's fine with me.

never thought about that thanks.can i rotate the transfer case 180o to work with the yota axle?
 
never thought about that thanks.can i rotate the transfer case 180o to work with the yota axle?

No, you could buy a Atlas Tcase setup for passenger side diff IIRC. but thats $2300. your better off spending the money on a diamond housing and buying Long birfs for it. and using the rest of the parts off that axle.
 
Your better off selling that axle and using the money to buy a D44.
 
sounds even better. do you know the width of a d44 from a 1978 f250.
 
sounds even better. do you know the width of a d44 from a 1978 f250.

I think around 65" or so WMS to WMS. its a fullwidth axle, you would need a new rear axle.
 
when they shorten a axle they grind the weld so they can pull the tube out of the pumpkin and/or steering knuckle.cant i do the same thing,pull both knuckles off the ends of the tubes then the tubes out of the pumpkin,re weld each tube on the opposite side and weld the knuckles on the original side,so the pumpkin gets moved to the driver side,the knuckles aren't backwards.i have welders grinders torches and presses.i don't have that much money to work with so this would be easier and not a problem for me.and if it needs to spin the opposite direction i can put a reverse rotation to fix that right?
 
That would be the only way you could use that axle, is to swap tubes. If you had some money to play with you could also make up for the width this way, by getting longer tubes, but you'd have to get longer axle shafts too. If you did it this way, the original 3rd member could be used, because you're just moving it over, not flipping it upside down. (which by the way, a third member is only designed to oil the pinion with it facing rightside up, so no matter what you do, you can not flip a 3rd over and use it.)
 
toyota housing is like a ford 9", you cant remove the tubes.
 
And to get high pinion you need to buy a different 3rd IIRC
 
Sell it and buy a 44/9" combo from a 73 to 79 Ford full size. I got my entire 79 Bronco for $400. I actually made money on the Bronco when parting it out.

Then buy some fancy beer with the profit
 
i already have a ford 8.8in explorer rear axle. and i talked to a yard this morning that will give me a 1973 bronco front d44 for the yota axle. so im set.thanks for all the help people.:icon_cheers:
 
you know....i was just thinking....there is a way it cold be done that wouldnt cost u too awful much either....

follow me here

the bolt pattern on a yota 3rd is perfectly round, meaning once the axle was flipped you could still install the third right side up, the axles would line up and everything.

you would nee to cutout the front of the diff housing where its molded for the ring gear and carrier and flip it 180deg

and you would need to get the knuckles cut off and flipped 180 to match, and there u have yourself a drivers side drop yota solid front axle that will opil properly, steer correctly and never leave u stranded.
 

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