Towing 1990 Broncoii

[VaGent]

Hey guys been a long while since being on the board due to health reasons but back again now. My question is this. I have a 1990 Broncoii that I just replaced the 2.9 engine in as well as the entire clutch system. Installed new tires, radiator etc etc etc. Still have a few things to finish & its ready for the road. I want to tow it behind my RV but not sure as to what I need to do. Its a 5 speed manual tranny with "push button 4X4" mounted on the dash. Its all stock from the factory & I plan on keeping it stock. What do I NEED to do in order to be able to safely tow it without a lot of physical work involved. I have a terrible lower back which restricts what I can & cannot do. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[adsm08]

Ideally you would have a manual transfer case that could be put in neutral as the output of the transfer case is what drives its fluid.

Since you have a manual you can get away with putting the trans in neutral, but you will want to keep the speed to 50 or less and take a break every few hours.

 

[RonD]

If you want to do some electrical work you could install a transfer case Neutral switch for the electric shift motor

Shift motor seen here: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-rebuild-4x4-shift-motor.123542/

In the 4th picture you can see the transfer case shift rod in 2WD position
Just opposite it is Neutral position, unmarked

In the 5th and 6th pictures you can see the Contact Wheel and contacts
As the 4x4 control module powers the motor the contact wheel moves with shift rod position, Contacts have a 2WD, 4high, Neutral, and 4low setting
This is why there is a delay from when you select 4high and the dash light comes on, the contact wheel must move to 4high position before 4high light comes on.
Neutral is just not included in the selections on the dash switches

Ford used to sell add on Neutral switch for flat towing, but not any more

You could build one with a toggle switch, two relays and an LED light to show when Neutral was set on contact wheel


Yes, towing with manual transmission in Neutral means the counter shaft is not turning, so output shaft is not being lubed very well
In normal driving the input shaft is turning, powered by the engine, which turns the lower counter shaft which pulls oil/ATF up from bottom of trans to the top keeping upper part wet with oil/ATF
This doesn't happen if only the output shaft is turning.
When you stop, start up the engine, you can leave it in Neutral, but let clutch pedal up, let it run for a minute or two, that will get oil/ATF to the top

Transfer case in Neutral doesn't have that issue

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Ill be honest...depending on the size/power of your RV, id get a small car trailer. Drive the B2 up on it, tie it down, and haul ass.

You can buy new 16 footers for 1500 bucks. A used one can be down around 1000 if your paitent. Im not a huge fan of tow dollys/bars. Then you know you wont hurt your bronc.

 

[VaGent]

Ill be honest...depending on the size/power of your RV, id get a small car trailer. Drive the B2 up on it, tie it down, and haul ass.

You can buy new 16 footers for 1500 bucks. A used one can be down around 1000 if your paitent. Im not a huge fan of tow dollys/bars. Then you know you wont hurt your bronc.

Thanks everyone for all the replies as I do appreciate the help. It sounds like getting a trailer to tow the Broncoii on is going to be the best way to go for me. My RV is a 1994 Winnebago with the old reliable (?) 454 engine with custom tuned headers on it. It was like that when I bought it. It only has 60,000 miles & runs great. Its 34ft long & really nice for its age. I won't be towing it into mountains but more like to the beach & lake areas in my state. Just wanted something to get around with once I was setup at the campground or where ever we decide to camp. I've had 11 Broncoii over the yrs & this will be my last one. This have a lot of interior parts & small parts if I need them. Thanks again everyone.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Yeah, a 454 Class A wont have an issue with that BII on a trailer. Just make damn sure you got good trailer brakes.

 

[4x4prepper]

The added bonus of a trailer is being able to back it up, add a wind fairing, cover the B2 with a car cover, and storing extra supplies on the trailer around it. If you ever damage the B2 off road, having a trailer to haul it somewhere for working on it would be a blessing.

 

[whtknght]

Click to Download 1990 Toad Guide

1990 Dinghy Guide

 

[wildbill23c]

As I understand it, the Bronco 2's with the push button 4x4 weren't supposed to be flat towed, the manual shift versions could be as long as the front hubs were disengaged...something the PO of my 88 B2 decided wasn't important I guess and I assume was spinning parts in the transmission that wasn't supposed to be spinning as that's why the transmission had to be rebuilt...and I also wonder if that's what caused the oil burning issues with it as well as he must have been towing it wrong and possibly so wrong that the engine was also being turned over and not receiving any oil wore out the rings...I'd assume that would happen given its an automatic transmission and at highway speeds would probably be able to spin the engine over if the shift sequence wasn't done properly prior to hooking it up and heading down the road.

 

[Snoranger]

As I understand it, the Bronco 2's with the push button 4x4 weren't supposed to be flat towed, the manual shift versions could be as long as the front hubs were disengaged...something the PO of my 88 B2 decided wasn't important I guess and I assume was spinning parts in the transmission that wasn't supposed to be spinning as that's why the transmission had to be rebuilt...and I also wonder if that's what caused the oil burning issues with it as well as he must have been towing it wrong and possibly so wrong that the engine was also being turned over and not receiving any oil wore out the rings...I'd assume that would happen given its an automatic transmission and at highway speeds would probably be able to spin the engine over if the shift sequence wasn't done properly prior to hooking it up and heading down the road.

An A4LD won't spin the motor over while towing no matter how fast you tow it.

 

[RonD]

While it wouldn't be good the oil pump in the engine would keep it lubed if it was turning, but I doubt it would turn with an automatic

Transfer case does have Neutral, and some did pull shift motor and switch transfer case to Neutral for flat towing
Neutral is just not available via the push buttons.

Yes, towing an automatic without dropping rear drive shaft or putting transfer case in Neutral is not a good idea, it does NOT self lube like the engine does

 

[ohio don]

I have a 93 ranger 4X4 with electronic shift and manual trany. can this be towed w/o any mods

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I have a 93 ranger 4X4 with electronic shift and manual trany. can this be towed w/o any mods

Pull the driveshafts.

 

[Snoranger]

Or pull the transfer case shift motor and manually switch it into neutral.

 

[RonD]

No, you can't flat tow it as is

There is a NEUTRAL on the electric shift transfer cases, there is just not a selection for it on the switch or in the 4x4 module that operates the shift motor

Look here: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-rebuild-4x4-shift-motor.123542/

4th picture down shows the transfer case gear selections, its in 2WD in the picture, 2H
Opposite 2H is NEUTRAL , between 4H and 4L, its unmarked but is there

As said you could, BLOCK THE WHEELS, and remove shift motor, then manually turn shift rod to Neutral, vehicle will roll away so block the wheels FIRST

You need to hold it in neutral so visegrip the rod and tie it off


In the long run you could add a neutral switch, the shift motor has internal contacts for the neutral position
So you could add a switch to move shift motor to neutral position and hold it there

Ford used to sell a kit for that, a Neutral switch kit