Torsion bar vs ttb travel

[bobbywalter]

hmmm..



use would dictate build direction.


ttb can potentially be the best bang for the buck for ifs.

the class 2 skyjacker with super runner steering i see as the best "bolt on" solution for a driveway build..



i have achieved 16/18 in of travel with jd bushing arms and 4 inch drop pivots on stock beams and junkyard steering. so its doable, but there is compromise.

 

[Curious Hound]

Did you need to drop the super runner kit down at all to match the FA400 arm?

No. It seemed to fit nicely. there's a picture on this page of my build thread.

 

[4x4junkie]

The Superlift steering kit only drops down 2 of the 4 inches it needs to for a 4" lift (just like the too-short drop pitman arms do), so if the centerlink wasn't lowered (and your lift is more than 2"), it's likely not where it should be (tie rods on the same plane as the beam pivots, the tie rods ideally should pass directly in front of your beam pivots).

The Superlift steering kit uses a standard (2") drop pitman arm such as the FA400, so no need to purchase the FA600 if you get the steering kit (modifying the centerlink as shown on this page doesn't change the pitman arm requirements).


IIRC, stock travel is pretty close to the same whether TTB or IFS (about 6" for IFS, maybe 7" for TTB). As said though, the TTB comes alive MUCH faster & further than the IFS does if you have a somewhat limited budget for your build (it is far more durable too).


FWIW, Skyjacker (and maybe others) were calling products that include new rear leaf springs "Systems", and products with rear blocks "Kits". So there's no real standard as to what constitutes a "lift kit", "suspension system", etc. Just get what you want and you can fairly safely assume it will "lift" your truck in the process.

Edit:
I just clicked your link, and your centerlink is higher than it should be. You probably aren't seeing issues from it since the stiffer TTB coil springs (I assume you're running) tend to mask them better than, say, Jeep or early Bronco springs would. Even as such, I strongly suspect you would still see a marked improvement in handling if you lowered that down 2".

 

[albertb]

The Superlift steering kit only drops down 2 of the 4 inches it needs to for a 4" lift (just like the too-short drop pitman arms do), so if the centerlink wasn't lowered (and your lift is more than 2"), it's likely not where it should be (tie rods on the same plane as the beam pivots, the tie rods ideally should pass directly in front of your beam pivots).

The Superlift steering kit uses a standard (2") drop pitman arm such as the FA400, so no need to purchase the FA600 if you get the steering kit (modifying the centerlink as shown on this page doesn't change the pitman arm requirements).


IIRC, stock travel is pretty close to the same whether TTB or IFS (about 6" for IFS, maybe 7" for TTB). As said though, the TTB comes alive MUCH faster & further than the IFS does if you have a somewhat limited budget for your build (it is far more durable too).


FWIW, Skyjacker (and maybe others) were calling products that include new rear leaf springs "Systems", and products with rear blocks "Kits". So there's no real standard as to what constitutes a "lift kit", "suspension system", etc. Just get what you want and you can fairly safely assume it will "lift" your truck in the process.

Edit:
I just clicked your link, and your centerlink is higher than it should be. You probably aren't seeing issues from it since the stiffer TTB coil springs (I assume you're running) tend to mask them better than, say, Jeep or early Bronco springs would. Even as such, I strongly suspect you would still see a marked improvement in handling if you lowered that down 2".

How do I know which skyjacker kits are the class II ones everyones talking about?

 

[4x4junkie]

Hmm, are they not using the "Class I" and "Class II" designators anymore?

Class II kits always include extended radius arms (part numbers start with "2", such as "236RHKS-AM" for their 6" kit w/rear springs and monotube gas shocks).

Class I kits have drop brackets that simply lower the short OE radius arms (part # starts with "1", such as "136RHKS-M")

Both style kits are available with rear lift blocks or new leaf springs (which of course you'll want the springs, since blocks greatly exacerbate the wheelhop issue Rangers already have stock).

 

[Curious Hound]

I looked around their site earlier today and saw the "class 2" designation on some kits for GM vehicles but not on any kits listed for Rangers. My assumption was that the class 2 kits are the ones with longer radius arms and new leaf springs for the rear. Basically what was mentioned above. The more complete the kit is, the better it will function.

My theory ,when buying, was to get as much as I could afford so I wouldn't have to go back and finish the job later. Everybody's budget is different. So you research it like you're doing and then get what you're comfortable with that fits your situation.

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