Tips for getting the brake drum off?

[HankG]

Hi, I'm trying to get my drums off for the first time (did a free check when I first got the truck but that was a long time ago), and I'm stuck. I've been googling, I have all the instructions for what I'm supposed to do, but I can't get it to work.

It's a 1996 ranger with, iirc, a limited slip 8.8 with 10" drums. The drum is very stuck and I'm trying to turn the screw, but the adjustment tab is holding it in place. I can't figure out how to get the tab pushed down so I can turn the screw and loosen the brakes. The tab doesn't stick out past the screw at all so I can't push down where I have a clear path, and I can't seem to get a screwdriver wedged in on the other side of the screw because of how things are arranged.

So is there some little trick to getting the tab pushed down? Or is this just one of those things you keep at until you figure it out?

Thanks for any help. Feeling like this shouldn't be such an ordeal, but don't know what else to do.

 

[Captain Ledd]

Might be siezed to the flange if it truely does not move back and forth just a little bit with the wheel off. In that case a big 3-jaw puller is your best bet. You'll need a new drum.

Sometimes a extremely hard whack with a BFH between the studs can get things loose.

I always put a very light coating of grease (usually white lithum grease or brake caliper grease) on the axle flange before I put the drum back on. I live in Michigan and my drums have never rusted to the flange since.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Get a brake adjuster and just npry on it It will click loud one direction and soft clicks to tighten it just be aggressive with the wrench. Go to the part store and get one of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-NEW..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item51ac225651&vxp=mtr

 

[HankG]

I went at it again and I finally figured out where to push to get the tab down so I could turn the screw. I turned it a bunch, enough that it's far enough over that there's just room to get the two screw drivers in, but the drum still isn't budging.

Is there any way to tell if the brakes are still holding it on or if it's just rusted solid? There was no cap in the hole on the backing plate, so rust is a pretty high probability.

 

[Mark_88]

Hammer, hammer, and hammer it some more...if it breaks, well, you probably needed to replace them anyways...but I've never actually broke one doing it that way.

I would suggest at least a 5 lb sledge...but I've had to use a 10 lb one once and didn't break the drum...

If the brakes are seized you would know just by driving it...so if you've driven it lately that is probably not the case...just takes a bit of time and patience...and wear goggles or safety glasses when you hammer that...rust tends to have a homing device that aims it right at eyes...

 

[HankG]

Where am I supposed to be hammering? I've just been using a standard hammer and giving it some good whacks. Ive gone around the studs, in the center of the hub, around the edge from the back.

Edit: Nvm. Got out my favorite hammer (6lb 1h sledge), gave it some good whacks, and it popped right off.

Thanks everyone for the help. Now to do the hard part. :|

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I allways replace the drums, shoes and new hardware kits and also replace the wheel cylinders the first time through the brakes. Then I know what I have I trust no one when it comes to brakes. If your replacing the drums just heat them up good and hot focus the heat just outside the studs for the wheel at the same time tap around the outer edge until you see it start to wiggle then it should pop off.

 

[naford]

Have you sprayed it with liquid wrench or other product? Just spray hit around the hub spray the studs hit around the studs. Repeat a couple of times. Let sit try again.

 

[killj0y]

There you go hitting them with a bfh always works for me. :thumbup:

 

[transmissions]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Po-WXqIKjHQ
I have no idea what the ranger drums are like, but maybe this'll help

 

[adsm08]

To unfreeze the drum from the hub take several good strikes to the areas between the studs with a hammer, minimum 3 lbs.

To release the adjuster pawl and de-adjust the shoes with the drum still on to get past a rust lip go to Sears, get a long pick set. Take the 90* pick, turn it so that it is parallel to the ground, and slide it over the top of the adjusting screw so the tip is just past the screw. Rotate 90* so tip points downward and push in. Spring tension should be felt against the pick when the pawl has been properly caught. Screw should now spin freely.

I'll just leave that here for the next guy who finds this thread in three years, since the OP already has his drum off.

 

[88_Eddie]

i've never had one too terribly seized, but a BFH is usually my go-to tool for most jobs.

 

[Lil-Pony]

stupid question is the parking brake on?