Time to replace ALL brake lines, best SOURCES?

[kcm1582]

The Nickel Copper line is the best stuff I have ever used. It's easy to bend, flare and cut, plus it will tarnish but wont rot or rust so you should never have to worry about them again.

 

[Mark_88]

Yes, excellent reading there Cvar...thanks!

 

[cvar]

Y'all are welcome to add it to the tech library, if ya want. I don't know how.

Fixizin: Yes, only 3 flexible lines; sorry I didn't photograph them separately. Yes, mixed bubble + inverted flares on SAME length of tube (thanks, Ford). I used coated steel (but not stainless) threaded fittings instead of brass, which means those can still rust. Next time, I'd opt for stainless fittings, but they weren't locally available for me (see http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220237 )

 

[upnsmoke]

Thanks cvar, that's helpful info there. After reading some of that I'm about sold on nickel copper lines.

 

[fixizin]

OK, gathering parts (and tools) to do the deed, BUT... not clear on why folks are replacing 1/4" dia. hard lines with 3/16"...? Is it just a matter of NOMINAL sizes, i.e. what SAE calls it vs. some other .org? Sounds like REAL size diff from cvar's write-up.

'cause I'm "a-thinkin'" (uh-oh) that there's a specific VOLUME of fluid needed to move the caliper and cylinder pistons the needed distance 'x'... and that smaller lines would increase required MCyl pressure, decrease stopping performance... and multiply the # of Zombies in a 20 mi. radius... also thinking it might throw off the RABS unit...?

Measure thrice, bend twice, cut once... then refill with brake fluid.

 

[cvar]

I agree, it would be a mistake to switch to smaller tubing size.

Are you saying that your Ranger has 1/4" OD tubing? Mine had original 3/16" OD size. Have you measured it? Ignore the protective spring wound around the outside. What is the actual OD of your brake line tubing that's underneath the spring winding?

 

[fixizin]

Are you saying that your Ranger has 1/4" OD tubing? Mine had original 3/16" OD size.

I B ig-nernt... drinkin' 'stead o' thinkin'... too many tabs open... mis-read your excellent tutorial...

I'm sure my Ranger has the same size tubing as EVERY other Ranger made since... 1993... or earlier.

But anyway, the spring-winding does what, exactly? Abrasion shield? FoMoCo seldom wastes pennies unless it saves dollars or increases safety.

I think I hear some pre-made lines with my name on them.

 

[cvar]

Dunno why the protective (?) wire winding exists. Lawyers? It's used in some places, yet not others. Doesn't the frame rail already protect the line? Yet along rear axle is exposed w/o wire winding. Makes no sense to me.
I think the winding captures dirt & water, making it rust faster.

Wire winding is absent from the aftermarket. Pre-made lines wouldn't help that much, cuz you still need to bend them into shape, but they'd be good for repairs to single pieces. They do come flared, if you can get correct lengths. But INV flaring the ends was pretty easy, and I'd never done it before. Good luck finding an 11' long tube. The hardest part was clipping everything into place. Clips are IMPOSSIBLE to replace.

 

[Mark_88]

When I redid my brakes after sandblasting and painting the frame rails, I didn't want to use metal clips or even the plastic ones that I could not find anywhere...so I just used my favourite fixit tool...the lowly zip tie!

I decided I didn't want them laying on the rail or close to it so I found holes alone the frame that were already there and threaded the zip ties through the frame (need two of them near enough each other) and ran the brake line through then zip tied it in place off the rail and near the top...then I connected them to the flex line to the back and ran it up through the front...still looks like new.

I also found those line connectors with the two threaded ends that made joining short line sections a breeze...if you haven't seen them I can post a picture of one...but I'd like to shake the hand of the person who came up with those...they are worth every penny of the 40¢ the auto parts store sells them for...

 

[fixizin]

(Good idea on the cable-ties... also to isolate dissimilar metals.)


OK guys, thanks for your info and indulgence so far, I'm *almost* there... few last critical details to clear up:

0) There IS a way to run the long RABS-to-rear-diff line, withOUT dropping the fuel tank... yes/how?

1) I understand there's a difference between BUBBLE flares (found only at the METRIC/ISO fittings), and DOUBLE flares (aka INV flares) found only at the English/SAE fittings... yes/no?

2) There's only TWO metric/bubble fittings, both at the Master Cylinder...?

3) Despite buying two pre-made lines, 60" and 40", cvar still used 22' of bulk Ni-Cu tubing? Crikey.

4) Is brake fluid an adequate "working lube" for the flaring-tool-to-tubing contact "cold work" zone? Seems you would NOT want any cutting/machine oil in your brake lines, and this would save a cleaning step...? All the how-to videos, even from mfrs., use no lube at all...?

5) 37-degree single AN (Army-Navy) flares are "superior", but... NOT compatible with the splitter blocks on flex hoses and/or AN-37 fittings NOT available in crazy assortment of sizes used on Ranger and/or... WhyTehHeck does cvar tease us with these fancy Brit tech articles anyway??

Thanks in advance.

 

[fixizin]

PS: Spring winding on hard lines... supposedly this is done on the sections subject to "pecking", i.e. damage from stones/gravel thrown from road/tires.

Theoretically, NiCopp, being softer and somewhat weaker than steel, is a bit more vulnerable to this... what to do... what to do...

 

[cvar]

(Good idea on the cable-ties... also to isolate dissimilar metals.)

OK guys, thanks for your info and indulgence so far, I'm *almost* there... few last critical details to clear up:

0) There IS a way to run the long RABS-to-rear-diff line, withOUT dropping the fuel tank... yes/how?

Yes, just shove the tubing along the frame beside the tank, like threading a needle. Fwiw, I de-rusted my frame too, so I wanted to remove my tank (hint: loosen sway bar bolts, first). It's handy, but not required. Removal made it easier to clip the tubing, to avoid potential pinch & rubbing spots.

1) I understand there's a difference between BUBBLE flares (found only at the METRIC/ISO fittings), and DOUBLE flares (aka INV flares) found only at the English/SAE fittings... yes/no?

Yes, big difference. The shape of the female receiver fitting also differs: INV has a visible cone shape to match the flared tube; bubble doesn't. So their methods of sealing are different. Look here, which also shows how to make a INV flare: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=115867

2) There's only TWO metric/bubble fittings, both at the Master Cylinder...?

Correct. Both MC fittings are metric bubble flares (10mm and 12mm). All other fittings are SAE INV flares.

3) Despite buying two pre-made lines, 60" and 40", cvar still used 22' of bulk Ni-Cu tubing? Crikey.

Yeah, that's with none wasted. Your wee Ranger is pretty long & wide.

4) Is brake fluid an adequate "working lube" for the flaring-tool-to-tubing contact "cold work" zone? Seems you would NOT want any cutting/machine oil in your brake lines, and this would save a cleaning step...? All the how-to videos, even from mfrs., use no lube at all...?

Yes, and at most a few drops is enough. If you don't lube, it's OK, but just harder to twist the flaring tool. DOT3 works as lube.

5) 37-degree single AN (Army-Navy) flares are "superior", but... NOT compatible with the splitter blocks on flex hoses and/or AN-37 fittings NOT available in crazy assortment of sizes used on Ranger and/or... WhyTehHeck does cvar tease us with these fancy Brit tech articles anyway??

Sorry. TMI? These standard SAE fittings are 45-degree, throughout. Sadly, I happen to own a 37-degree flaring tool, but I couldn't use it. Awk!

Thanks in advance.

 

[cvar]

PS: Spring winding on hard lines... supposedly this is done on the sections subject to "pecking", i.e. damage from stones/gravel thrown from road/tires.

Theoretically, NiCopp, being softer and somewhat weaker than steel, is a bit more vulnerable to this... what to do... what to do...

Maybe encase those sections inside of cheap vinyl tubing, if it worries you? That would absorb the pecking w/o damage. Um, why is MC subject to pecking? And not the rear axle?

 

[fixizin]

Um, why is MC subject to pecking? And not the rear axle?

Don't really know, but... I'm gonna go with "Funky Wind-Tunnel Testing", the videos of which, are still classified "Bottom Secret" by FoMoCo.