thinking about a sub setup

[That_4.0_ranger]

thinking about doing a sub and amp in my 91 super cab any recommendations?

 

[Uncle Gump]

Save your money... and spare your hearing. You're going to need to hear for the rest of your life.

But seriously... if you were close... I have a pile of audio wiring I'm pulling from my Bronco II and an amp/sub box I would gladly let you haul away. I'm older and just never understood the need to have your radio so loud it makes it rattle.

 

[fastpakr]

For what it's worth, amps have shrunk both physically and in cost quite a bit over the years. I've installed two or three of the PN5.640D's now. Enough to drive a modest 10-12" sub plus all four main channels for about $200 and it fits just about anywhere.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I recommend a 10" or 12" sub in a bazooka tube. It really thumped my old ranger. I had a 400w amp powering the sub and door speakers. one of my buddies had a 15" sub in a big box in is ranger, it was a bit much if you ask me.

 

[Ranger850]

I recommend a 10" or 12" sub in a bazooka tube. It really thumped my old ranger. I had a 400w amp powering the sub and door speakers. one of my buddies had a 15" sub in a big box in is ranger, it was a bit much if you ask me.

I had a Jensen 8" tube in my Lincoln Town Car to replace to 2 blown 5×7 in the rear deck. Very pleased with the overall sound. Wasn't too much to rattle anything and filled the cab with a nice deep bass that the factory speakers just couldn't do. I just used the factory amp and wired in the tube where the rear deck speakers were.

 

[Ghost 64]

I'd go w two 8 in subs one under each seat save space and get the sound your looking for.i do installation work off books.ive been installing off and on for almost30 years you can get those w an amp already installed in them

 

[superj]

i have always wanted to try out those electronic subs. i grew up when minitrucks were cool in socal, in the late 80s and early 90s so i have always had systems in my vehicles, up until recently. probably attributed to why i now wearing hearing aids at 46 years old but those electronic subs seem cool. i just have never seen one in person to know if they actually are good.

anyone seen one or tested them out in a vehicle? i know they probably don't vibrate the rear view off the glass but maybe they add enough low to sound good?

 

[fastpakr]

i have always wanted to try out those electronic subs. i grew up when minitrucks were cool in socal, in the late 80s and early 90s so i have always had systems in my vehicles, up until recently. probably attributed to why i now wearing hearing aids at 46 years old but those electronic subs seem cool. i just have never seen one in person to know if they actually are good.

anyone seen one or tested them out in a vehicle? i know they probably don't vibrate the rear view off the glass but maybe they add enough low to sound good?

What are you referring to as an 'electronic sub'?

 

[superj]

those flat ones with built in amp that it seems they stuff under seats. i don't know what it is because its just described as an electronic sub.

well, now that i am searching for them, it appears they are just an 8" regular sub in a flat enclosure with a built in amp. nothing special

 

[Blmpkn]

Wanting a sub was something that stopped for me once I was older than 21 or so lol. Same thing with the desire to spray paint my wheels black and tint my tail lights.

Quality speakers getting a modest amount of power is good enough for me.

I'm no where near audiophile status, but even I know that a properly good sounding stereo setup is a bit of a science. Putting a big sub in your truck without a quality head unit and quality speakers that have their own Amp to go along with it is just goofy.

If you want more bass, I'd fiddle with replacing your existing speakers first and possibly add a couple more. Buy some decent 2 way speakers and some tweeters for the dash.

 

[Ghost 64]

If you want a whole system start w a head unit ,there are lots of options on today's units.then work your way out
On mine I have 4 Bose 1 in tweeters that sound like mids in my front heater vents.i put 2 ,4 in mids in the door,4x6 in back and 2 8 in subs ,I have 2 amps one is 80 watts and the other is 50 X2 .my head unit is nothing special
It gives enough bass and a an all around pretty good sound.
Start off small and work up but full adjust your amp(s) first before buying a bunch of stuff some times just a nice small ano and the fact speakers work fine

 

[Ghost 64]

those flat ones with built in amp that it seems they stuff under seats. i don't know what it is because its just described as an electronic sub.

well, now that i am searching for them, it appears they are just an 8" regular sub in a flat enclosure with a built in amp. nothing special

There not to bad.yeah there nothing special except the sub is thiner but it works well because the box and amp are matched to the speaker .the sub still has heavy magnets but u just don't need the depth to get that bass

 

[gaz]

@That_4.0_ranger ,
Without additional info, I presume that the 91 is a standard cab. Three sub setups come to mind for a standard cab:
• a pair of 8" driver's in boxes behind the seat. With my seat nearly pinned to the back wall, I was able to install a 1.87cu.ft. enclosure which is easily more volume than two high throw 8" driver require.
• my favorite, a single 10" driver. My favorites are Nakamichi, MB Quart and Alpine S line but I have no issue using a healthy Punch, Kenwood, Sound Stream or Orion 10's.
• to save on space and maintain full seat adjustability, look into Bass Shakers. They aren't speakers/driver's, they do not move air but they send a pulse into the seat structure which feels like a sound wave. It simulates the low frequency air pulse and does feel similar.

In regards to an amp, there are many that will easily perform the duty. A great deal is an older Alpine V12 series, 2 or 4 channel set up. They usually include an active crossover with both input/output gain sensitivity adjustments.

I have a simple formula that I use to determine how much power I need for my subs on a given system. Whatever RMS watt level the front mains are working on, I use that number X3 to get proper balance since the larger drivers require much more power to equal the sound output level of the mains.

EXAMPLE:

- if the mains are running 50wrms, then I use 150 wrms on the sub(s).
- if the mains are running 12.5 wrms, then I run the subs at 30-50 wrms and dial it on with the gain controls.

There are a few good new amplifier companies and a bunch of good older companies, my favorites are:

Nakamichi, Alpine, Phenix Gold but I have no issue using a solid Rockford Fosgate, Punch, Orion, Sound Stream or Kenwood.

When purchasing a used amplifier my price formula is $0.50 or less a wrms; if I am looking at a solid looking, known working two channel, 30 wrms/ch, I'm willing to pay $30.00 for a mint condition or less if not mint condition.

IF you have any questions, feel free to ask. There are a ton of ways to do things right or wrong, in the end, what we hear is the story of which route was taken.

 

[superj]

i like the older fosgate/punch stuff but i have had good experience with eclipse head units running the show. does eclipse even make stuff anymore? it seems like they don't anymore, at least aftermarket is not made anymore.

and cerwin vega makes some nice subs.

 

[Ranger850]

Seems like "Skar" is the "go -to" brand these days. I remember when they were the generic RF knock-offs. I have an older Alpine v-12 amp, a small crossover, and a few other components sitting on the shelf.