Switching from an AOD to a manual?

[5.0]

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My truck is a '97 with a 5.0 HO from a '92 Thunderbird with an AOD and running 3.73 gears with 255/60-15 tires. It had a 2.3 with a manual.

The auto was ok to get things going, but I'm really wanting a manual now. I know nothing about manual transmissions, so be easy with me!



Questions:

Can I use the factory plastic line for the clutch?

If the plastic line interferes with the exhaust, is there another line to use?

What transmission from what donor vehicle should I get?

Where does the shifter come thought the floor in relation to the stock shifter?

What do I need to do with the computer?



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[Teddyzee]

Do nothing with the computer itself. I would recommend wiring the clutch pedal position switch, if it is not wired already.

Get a T5 from an 8cyl Mustang, '93 or older.

The shifter comes through the floor HERE:

You can use the stock line if you use a slave cylinder from an '83/'84 Ranger V6. This is an external mounted slave, with the connection in the propper spot.
Most likely, you will use a generic slave, like from a Nissan 280Z. That has a standard type fitting.
I uses THESE, to mate the stock Master cyl to a braided line, to a Ranger (83/84, DIESEL) slave. I got the line from Summit or Jegs.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640281?autofilter=1&part=RUS-640281&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Here's my setup. The 3 models of Ranger in '83/'84 had three different slaves. They differ in the way they mount. The 4cyl mounts like an F150, has no bolt holes. The V6 mounts with bolts in the opposite direction of mine, in line with the push of the slave. The diesel (mine) bolts at a right-angle.

Also, as this slave, and most I've found, have a 3/4" bore, I needed to swap my Master cyl. The stock Ranger one (on my '97, and I believe most) has a 5/8" bore, and would not give the slave enough travel. I used a master from an '89 2.9 Ranger, it has a 7/8" bore (new at NAPA). You check my build thread on RPS for pics of how it went on. It bolts to the firewall like '94-older Rangers. Newer Rangers have the Master clipped on to the pedal assembly.

 

[5.0]

Do nothing with the computer itself.

Thanks for all the info, it's very helpful. I thought something had to be done with pin 30 on the EEC? Right now it senses if the trans is in P or D to adjust the way it runs, and on manuals it's wired different to sense N or if the clutch pedal in down. One way senses a ground and the other senses + voltage, I don't remember which though. Maybe it don't matter though?

 

[Teddyzee]

I think it should work fine without touching anything, if it works now.

if you want the CPP switch to work, and feel like re-wiring some stuff, Connect pin 30 from the Mustang ECU/harness to pin 20 of the Ranger 42pin connector (clutch pedal position, Lb/Y)
and connect pin 46 from the Mustang ECU/harness to pin 18 of the Ranger 42pin connector (clutch pedal position, Gy/R)

These circuits go to the CPP switch on the master cyl shaft. Basically, they connect pin 30 and pin 46 during startup (only when the clutch is pushed.)
In the typical Ranger application, the neutral swith on the T-5 trans is not used.

If you wired the truck yourself, you likely have pin 30 going to the neutral start switch, not sure of the name, then it goes to the starter relay, I beleieve.

These both do the same thing.

EDIT: I gues if you did nothing, your neutral circuit would alway read "open", an not start. So you would need to jump your trans circuit together. You may be able to use the T-5 neutral switch, but the clutch switch seems to be a little more common to use.

 

[5.0]

If you wired the truck yourself, you likely have pin 30 going to the neutral start switch, not sure of the name, then it goes to the starter relay, I beleieve.

This project may have to wait until spring... it's a little more involved than I though. It will probably take until then to collect all the stuff I need anyway.

Yep, I did all my wiring and it's wired as you said. The wiring was the easiest and most enjoyable part of the swap.

 

[Teddyzee]

Yep, I did all my wiring and it's wired as you said. The wiring was the easiest and most enjoyable part of the swap.

I enjoyed it, too.
With so much info available, there is no guessing. And by using a meter you KNOW it's going to work before it's on the truck.

Good luck with the swap.