Swapping a 2003 4.0 SOHC into a 2004 Ranger.

[WarcrimeActual]

My current engine has definite timing chain noise and needs a new transmission. I'm looking at two options and want opinions. I have a parts truck 2003 Ranger 4.0 SOHC that has 80k less miles, no chain noise, and runs well, as well as a much better transmission. Should I take the trans off the 2003 and just swap it with the one on the 2004 and have the 2004 rebuilt, or should I just try to pull the engine and trans together and do a full swap? Both sound daunting but part of me things that if I get the right tools and lifts, a tall order monetarily, then it might be easier overall to just pull the whole drive train on the 2003, freshen it up, and install it in the 2004 then do the same rebuild/tune up on the components pulled from the 2004 and have a spare set for when I either blow it up or find a cheap ranger with a bad drive train.

 

[Thanks47]

I think the full swap will be easier and the way to go. I believe the 04 has egr and the 03 does not so put the 04 intake on the 03 when you swap them.

 

[WarcrimeActual]

I think the full swap will be easier and the way to go. I believe the 04 has egr and the 03 does not so put the 04 intake on the 03 when you swap them.

Yeah the EGR is the thing that plugs in next to the throttle body right. And when you say intake you mean the entire intake manifold off the 2004 to the 2003 but the rest should swap right over. How hard is it, to pull the entire engine and trans together in these? I assume I'd need to tear most of the front of the truck apart. For the parts truck it can take as long as needed but obviously for my daily and only truck I drive it needs to be a weekend job.

 

[Thanks47]

Yes, Exhaust Gas Recirculation. It's easiest to leave them together because you don't have to pull the inner fenders to get the engine and transmission apart. Take your time and it's pretty straight forward. Spray exhaust bolts with penetrating oil well in advance of your work.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

To pull them as a mated pair is very difficult and you need a lot of lifting height unless you pull the core support, which is spot welded in. That requires taking the whole front end apart plus drilling out the spot welds. I’ve done it where I’ve made the core support a bolt-in by full drilling the spot welds with a 3/8” bit and using stainless 1/4-20 x 5/8” long button heads with flange nuts. There’s also other ways involving making the inner fenders removable.