Surprises when doing tensioner and guide replacement.

[MikeG]

I'd guess that it simplifies, or at least makes more idiot-proof, the assembly in the factory. That is a guess. Angles don't go out of calibration, but torque wrenches can.

Whether or not it is 'needed' in a particular application..... not for me to say. I was REALLY skeptical of the claim that you had to use new caliper bracket bolts when changing out the rotors, till mine started coming loose after a brake job! Fortunately I found the problem before it got worse. Ran myself down to the Ford dealer, immediately, and got the right part.

Anyway....

 

[Jim_Philly]

As G8 said, this is a friction fit application and the bolt should not experience fatigue. However, I am not going to argue with Ford engineers and when I found the right bolt I used it.

Probably a bit of over-engineering for good measure. Or maybe there were issues in other engines (although I can't say I've ever heard of a balancer or pulley flying off of a Ford engine). Did the OHV have TTY bolts on the crankshaft and camshaft?

 

[Mike92STX]

On the parts list I wonder how many of those prices are regular because I priced the front or left timing chain tensioner at a local dealer and was told around $101.00. He told me exact price but I already had 1 so I don't remember exactly what he said. My question is how did you get those prices?

 

[gw33gp]

Local Ford dealer prices are usually marked way up. The TTY damper bolt I got at my local dealer was around four times higher than it was priced online. However, most websites indicated it would not fit my vehicle.

The way I got those prices was to order online from Village Ford Parts. I normally order from Tasca Ford but they were a little higher than Village Ford. There are other Ford websites that list considerably lower than my local dealer, but Village Ford beat them all. I can't guaranty they still have the same prices but you can look up there prices online. If you prefer to use your local dealer, I pretty much assure you that you will pay more.

BTW, I didn't have to pay tax either and the shipping was very reasonable. I can't say they did a great job of packing the parts but nothing was damaged seriously. One of the gaskets was bent a little but it was easy to straighten.

 

[Mike92STX]

That's what I thought, I got my tensioner from a dealer in Texas through Amazon.
Thanks for the response.

 

[Mike92STX]

gw33gp, I'm not planning on doing a rebuild, will I need all the parts on that list? I know you did a rebuild so I don't want to order any parts I won't need. I'm guessing I won't need the balance shaft parts either. I plan on using your list and check prices from the same dealer I got the tensioner .

 

[Jim_Philly]

gw33gp, I'm not planning on doing a rebuild, will I need all the parts on that list? I know you did a rebuild so I don't want to order any parts I won't need. I'm guessing I won't need the balance shaft parts either. I plan on using your list and check prices from the same dealer I got the tensioner .

I mean, everything he listed was specifically a timing component or something required to fasten/secure a timing component, except for the gaskets. And not replacing gaskets while your engine is out of the truck and apart is probably a poor choice... (also I would absolutely replace the rear main seal while the engine is out). Regarding crankshaft/jackshaft bolts that are torque to yield - basically, seems they can be reused but Ford does not recommend it.

 

[Mike92STX]

Thanks, I don't think you know I have to replace the guides on my timing chains because the tensioners were not changed soon enough but I don't have the money to rebuild the motor. I will probably have the work done because I don't have the room, correct tools and know how. One place I asked for a estimate said I could get the parts so I'm going to see if it's worth looking for better prices.

 

[Jim_Philly]

Thanks, I don't think you know I have to replace the guides on my timing chains because the tensioners were not changed soon enough but I don't have the money to rebuild the motor. I will probably have the work done because I don't have the room, correct tools and know how. One place I asked for a estimate said I could get the parts so I'm going to see if it's worth looking for better prices.

When you say "rebuild," what do you have in mind? Did the guides fail and valves get bent, etc.? If there's physical damage to the valvetrain then you may be better off just swapping in a junkyard engine.

If the rear timing components (chain, guide, or both) are to be replaced on your current engine, the engine will be pulled by 9 out of 10 shops (you technically can drop the transmission and do it from the rear with special tools but I've never heard of anyone actually doing that). To pull the engine, you have to drain coolant, remove the radiator fan (some will remove radiator to make room/avoid damage), alternator, EGR components, air intake, intake manifold, disconnect wiring harnesses, disconnect vacuum lines, disconnect exhaust y-pipe, etc. etc. A shop will probably charge 12+ hours of labor, maybe more. Hourly rate varies widely but in my area I have a particularly cheap mechanic at $70/hour whereas national chains and dealerships can be $100-$130/hour. The savings of omitting some of the items in gw33gp's list will pale in comparison to the overall cost of the job.

Not trying to discourage but if you're contemplating spending the $$$ to have a shop pull the engine and do any one of the timing components, the extra $100-200 for the rest of the parts is worth it to avoid doing it again.

And I think most here will encourage you to stick with OEM parts, or at least the Cloyes kit. You can get sub-$100 kits on Amazon but unless you plan to dump the vehicle soon, I'd avoid based on what I've read.

 

[Mike92STX]

I understand what you are saying, I was asking because I know he was doing a complete rebuild and I just want to do both the chains and guides. I plan on checking with a Ford dealer on the parts like gw33gp did to see if I can get those kind of prices. I've checked with 2 local shops 1 said $3200 with parts, the other said $2200 plus parts and I could get the parts. I'm trying to decide which one I want to trust to do the job. I'm retired so I don't have to drive it everyday but I want to have something I can depend on.
Thanks for your input

 

[gw33gp]

I did not do a full engine rebuild. I just did a cam timing chain rebuild, and that is what you should to do if you get into replacing the cassettes. You could buy just the cassettes and tensioners without doing the chains and sprockets but I felt that was not that much more expensive and did to want to risk have them give me a problem later.

You should do the main timing chain tensioner, guide and chain that connect the crankshaft to the jackshaft. That tensioners was the only thing that was broken on mine but the right and left cassettes were brittle and near failure. I did install a new oil pump which is not needed but I wanted to be on the safe side.

You should replace the valve cover gaskets because they have a tendency to fail. The water pump gasket may be reusable but is not that expensive. I have reused the intake gaskets before also but didn't want to reuse them again. I think it is a good idea to replace the front cover gasket and seal. Yes, it is good to do the rear crank seal also, I had already done hat a year before. I don't think the rear expansion plug for the jackshaft can be removed without damaging it so it should be replaced. I highly recommend replacing the TTY jackshaft bolts. The crankshaft/damper bolt is up to you.

I measured the O-ring that should be replaced on the lower cassette bolt. It looks like the ID is around .55" or 14 mm , OD is around .75" or 19 mm and about .10" thick. At least that is what appears to be a direct replacement. As I said before, I recommend Viton.

 

[Jim_Philly]

Thanks for the o-ring info!

 

[Mike92STX]

Well I'm sorry I had it my head that gw33gp was doing a complete motor rebuild, I just went back and read his first post and as he said he is doing a cam chain and guides replacement which is what I need to do so I will need almost all the parts on his list. I have a 04 so I'm hoping it doesn't have the balance shaft. I just sent a email to the dealer I got the tensioners from to see if I could get a better price for the other parts like gw33gp did. I'm going to blame my errors on old age and not being the sharpest knife in the drawer

 

[Mike92STX]

I got a quote from the dealer in Texas but it seems to be missing the timing chain cassettes . If I can figure this out I will post the list. Let me know if I need more than the cassettes.


QUOTE #5595

Hello ,
Please find your custom quote items below:

Part Number​	Part Name​	Price​	Quantity​	Total​
4L2Z-6M290-AA​	Camshaft Gear​	$72.60​	1​	$72.60​
7U3Z-6K254-A​	Engine Timing Chain Tensioner​	$35.21​	1​	$35.21​
7U3Z-6K254-B​	Engine Timing Chain Tensioner​	$51.11​	1​	$51.11​
5H2Z-6700-AA​	Front Cover Seal​	$16.55​	1​	$16.55​
1L2Z-6020-AA​	Timing Cover Gasket​	$6.34​	1​	$6.34​
F77Z-6710-AA​	Gasket​	$35.23​	1​	$35.23​
4L2Z-6710-AA​	Gasket​	$21.50​	1​	$21.50​
YL2Z-6L266-AA​	Engine Timing Chain Tensioner​	$28.08​	1​	$28.08​
1L2Z-6584-AA​	Valve Cover Gasket​	$20.79​	1​	$20.79​
1L2Z-8507-AA​	Gasket​	$10.54​	1​	$10.54​
4L2Z-9461-BA​	Manifold Gasket​	$3.03​	1​	$3.03​
2L2Z-6K297-AA​	Chain Guide​	$14.50​	1​	$14.50​
F77Z-6026-AB​	Engine Expansion Plug​	$16.65​	1​	$16.65​
F77Z-6268-AB​	Timing Chain​	$40.97​	1​	$40.97​
2L2Z-6279-AA​	Bolt​	$20.95​	1​	$20.95​
2L2Z-6306-BA​	Crankshaft Gear​	$35.87​	1​	$35.87​

Subtotal: $429.92​

Total: $429.92 + Shipping​

NO BALANCE SHAFT ON THIS ENGINE.
I ALSO CHANGED A FEW NUMBERS THAT WILL FIT YOUR VIN
Thanks,
Patrick
FORD PARTS CONNECT
(732) 264-1694
support@fordpartsconnect.com
the list.

 

[gw33gp]

The part number 4L2Z-6M290-AA is the rear cassette. It includes the guide, chain and sprockets. Ford labels it as Camshaft Gear. I labelled it as the rear cassette to help anyone interested, to know what it actually is. The front cassette is missing. That was part number 7U3Z-6A257-A on my engine. It includes the guide, chain, sprockets and bottom bolt with O-ring.

If you get the crankshaft sprocket 2L2Z-6306-BA, make sure you compare it to your existing one. It caused a misalignment to the jackshaft sprocket on my engine. I could not use it and returned it.

You need 6 manifold gaskets and 2 valve cover gaskets.

I don't see the rear jackshaft bolt -W703167-S430 on your list.

There my be other items. You need to do your own comparison.

You don't need the upper and lower pan gaskets if you don't have a balance shaft, but it doesn't hurt to replace them. The upper pan requires a special procedure for installation. It reinforces the block and you will need to install it correctly.