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Supercharged 4.0 SOHC in a 87 Ranger


Did you re-set sparkplug gap to .040?
Change fuel to 91 octaine?

LOL !! So we meet again ! I've been emailing with you. No , I haven't re-gapped the plugs yet as the plugs in the engine are the Bosch E4's. I figured the engine must have ran good in the Explorer so it should run OK now. But I do have a set of NGK 's TR55GP-1 's that are going in on Monday.

Also, on my first test drive a few weeks ago, I didn't have an air filter/cleaner attached to the MAF and it really turned on at that time. Now it doesn't. I'll have to investigate that further.

I want to take this off-road next weekend so I have to get it fixed soon. Other than this issue, it's ready.
 
LOL !! So we meet again ! I've been emailing with you. No , I haven't re-gapped the plugs yet as the plugs in the engine are the Bosch E4's. I figured the engine must have ran good in the Explorer so it should run OK now. But I do have a set of NGK 's TR55GP-1 's that are going in on Monday.

Also, on my first test drive a few weeks ago, I didn't have an air filter/cleaner attached to the MAF and it really turned on at that time. Now it doesn't. I'll have to investigate that further.

I want to take this off-road next weekend so I have to get it fixed soon. Other than this issue, it's ready.

I found the stock motorcraft set at .040 work just fine. I currently have over 90,000 miles on my last set. Ford racing states the platinum stock plugs are just fine up to 10lbs boost. They use them in the Ford Lightning. Good luck on your off road venture.
 
Was my wife's birthday today so couldn't work on the truck other than a quick road test. Interesting ---- stone cold it works great, after the 3rd full throttle acceleration it started crapping out.

I'm going to change the plugs and drain the fuel, put in premium. Try it out.
 
I installed the new plugs and that itself helped a lot. Probably cured about 70% of it. The old Bosch E4 's were about a 1/4 " shorted than the new NGK's. Instantly fixed the idle quality.

I filled it up with premium fuel. Not as bad as before but still craps out. When this does happen, I've noticed that almost all the PIDS that I'm monitoring spikes down when the "event" occurs. :icon_confused:

I'm still looking for the answer.
 
I installed the new plugs and that itself helped a lot. Probably cured about 70% of it. The old Bosch E4 's were about a 1/4 " shorted than the new NGK's. Instantly fixed the idle quality.

I filled it up with premium fuel. Not as bad as before but still craps out. When this does happen, I've noticed that almost all the PIDS that I'm monitoring spikes down when the "event" occurs. :icon_confused:

I'm still looking for the answer.

What are you running for a fuel pump? Is it a non-return running about 56 to 60lbs constantly?
 
What are you running for a fuel pump? Is it a non-return running about 56 to 60lbs constantly?

Fuel pump and tank are from a 05 Ranger as it's almost a bolt in. Is a mechanical returnless running 65 psi at idle. ABout 60 @ 100 KPH.

Went out off roading this weekend. Engine ran fine other than this issue. The trail head was 3 hours away so I had lots of time to monitor fuel trims and O2 sensors. At 100 KPH cruise, fuel trims are about + 10 and O2 generally are 0.900 mv and vac/boost gauge reads about 10 in. Step on the gas and short term fuel trims rise quite fast to +25 and then drop to about + 5 at which point the engine craps out while the O2's stay at 0.900 mv. When the trims drop , it maybe me getting off the gas.

Idle , everything is cool . Short term fuel trims switch +/- 8 and O2s switch 0.100 and 0.800 mv.
 
it sounds like youre running a narrow band O2 sensor, you cant use them worth anything for tuning. You should switch to a wideband O2 sensor to get a true air/fuel reading.
 
A quick rundown of what I did to make this work.


Biggest problem was the wiring. I was a Ford tech for 10 years and have access to all wiring diagrams. You need to take the PATS system too.The PCM is mounted in the firewall of the donor truck. Right now its kinda hanging near the engine. I am going to extend the wires and mount the PCM on the RT inner fender and seal it in a box of some sort. Mount the battery from the RT side to the LT side. Lots of wiring. I used the battery junction box from the donor and spliced it to the 87 wire harness.

The donor 2001 Explorer uses the ABS module for VSS. I did NOT swap the ABS therefore the PCM has no VSS referance. The trans does shift but a bit firm shifts at the same road speed no matter how much throttle you give it. Minor issue.

There will be a ton of EVAP and VSS codes once the truck is running. 87 Rangers have no CEL so no problem

This swap is NOT for the faint of heart or newbe.

I used the fuel lines and tank from a 2005 Ranger. The tank is almost a straight bolt in. I had issues with the transfer case lever linkage interfering with the OSS sensor. I had to install a 3" body lift to clear the supercharger and I had to fab a trans shift linkage -- I'm still fine tuning that part.

Exhaust is no problem. Use the stock 2.9 motor mounts.Modify the 4.0l motor mount brackets slightly to shove the engine over to the left side to clear the oil pan to frame.

Forget A/C . Use a non AC heater box and modify the left part for clearance for the right valve cover. As stated before, I have a 3" body lift, still had to mod the heater box. Or delete it all together if you can live without heat.

I have stock steering column and dash. Fuel gauge works opposite -- ie full means empty and vise versa ( I don't know why ) tach will read way to high, I disconnected it. Installed a manual temp guage and oil pressure guage.

Use a 4.0l OHV rad from a 91-94 Explorer. Make a custom high pressure hose for steering.

Runs very strong. Don't know HP or TQ . More than enough to spin 34" LTB's.
 
no one close for a custom tune?
 
no one close for a custom tune?

You'd think that a city with a metro population of 1 million people and a very strong and large car culture -- including a drag strip , dirt oval and paved oval -- would have a reliable tuner in town. Not that I've been able to find. The one's that are around I've heard nothing but bad stuff.

I'm really interested in Moates Quarterhorse and EEC Editor or Binary Editor. But I'm not really into the programing thing.

I installed a MAF sensor from a 6.0l diesel and that alone smart'en it up. I just don't know if it's leaning out at higher RPM's. Haven't sprung for a wide band O2.
 
From LONG experience with turbocharged engines with a great variety
of different ignition schemes and several times as many different spark
plugs I developed several hard and fast rules:

1)Bosch Plugs (other than the Solid silver core $75 EACH racing plugs)
are shit! their resistor elements are particularly prone to degredation.

2)Resistor plugs should be avoided if possible.

3) Multiple ground electrode plugs are a gimmick.
Like fishing lures that are designed to catch fishermen (or their money)
rather than fish.

4)Carbon core wires? fit nicely in the bottom of a trash can
I always uses inductive supression wires with a METAL core
(My favorites were KEM Mag-plus)

5)Idle quality is a poor indicator of ignition health.
Basically show me a boosted engine that idles perfectly
and I'll be looking at an engine that is running TOO MUCH
plug gap.

INTERPRETATION: If you keep tightening the spark gap until you get
an occasional idle mis-fire and you'll NEVER have a misfire under boost.

Misfires under boost at high rpm can break things.
especially your concentration when you are driving at
high speed.

AD
 
1)Bosch Plugs (other than the Solid silver core $75 EACH racing plugs)
are shit! their resistor elements are particularly prone to degredation.

2)Resistor plugs should be avoided if possible.

3) Multiple ground electrode plugs are a gimmick.
Like fishing lures that are designed to catch fishermen (or their money)
rather than fish.


AD

Couldn't agree more. There were Bosch E4 in the engine when I got it and were absolute crap. Installed regular NGK's and all's good. I would have gotten Motorcraft but I don't get any deals on them anymore.
 
INTERPRETATION: If you keep tightening the spark gap until you get
an occasional idle mis-fire and you'll NEVER have a misfire under boost.

Misfires under boost at high rpm can break things.
especially your concentration when you are driving at
high speed.

AD

:icon_thumby: Couldn't agree more. It just makes sense.
 
Why not just run an EEC-IV 4.0 computer on the SOHC? Im on my way to doing just that if I can ever get my suspension done.
 
this is a sweet build. have you gotten any of the bugs worked out?
 

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