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Still diving to right after alignment?


I think it was just a crappy alignment. He should’ve got your toe closer than that. @adsm08 you’d be surprised how many straight axle trucks have that much toe or more, even brand new trucks

When I first looked at it the page didn't load correctly. The only image I saw was the before measurments. The post-alignment toe does look OK. However, it is very easy on the TIB/TTB front end to get the toe correct, but have the wheel be off.
 
When I first looked at it the page didn't load correctly. The only image I saw was the before measurments. The post-alignment toe does look OK. However, it is very easy on the TIB/TTB front end to get the toe correct, but have the wheel be off.
'Wheel' as in camber?
 
@PanteraGT5S No as in the steering wheel. TIB trucks have one slip collar to adjust total toe and one to adjust the steering wheel
 
'Wheel' as in camber?

Steering wheel.

@PanteraGT5S No as in the steering wheel. TIB trucks have one slip collar to adjust total toe and one to adjust the steering wheel

No, only the 3/4 ton and up trucks do.



The way that the TIB steering is set up though its easy to knock one side out while adjusting the other.

The way I always did it was to get toe on the side that was farthest out set where I wanted it, then make sure the wheel was still straight, and adjust the other side, while making sure the first side stayed where I wanted it, and knocking it back when it tried to move.
 
I realized I was wrong after I posted that. Forgive me it’s been a long week
 
Remember: If you recycle the cans you're an environmentalist, not a drunk.
 
The numbers on that chart (current, specifically right-front camber & caster) are clear indicators of why it's pulling to the right. You need something around 2°, maybe even as much as 3° more caster on that side, and to match the camber with that of the driver side (I prefer to see the camber on both sides be around +0.25 to +0.5° to accommodate loading of the vehicle).

I agree, you need to find another alignment guy. The one you went to seems either ignorant or is too lazy to put in the correct caster/camber bushing (instead he's just spinning the existing one around and around and getting nowhere). This happens often, unfortunately. Like was said, alignment guys at independents who have been at it for a long time are likely your best bets.
 
Finally fixed park pawl and am back to the steering issue.
I have.been working on my lifted wrangler and have learned a bit about steering geometry.
This ranger has what seems to be a 4" lift and 33's.
As mentioned it pulls to the right and wheel has to be held at all times. While driving I noticed that my blinker switch will stay on longer when actuated one direction and will turn off(deactivate with the slightest turn in direction opposite of blinker direction....if that makes any sense?
I'm thinking the drag link or pitman arm is the issue. Where drag link attaches to tie rod it looks like tie rods form a peak where intersecting with drag link. Pitman arm looks to be the original oem one.
In the end should tie rods be horizontal/parallel to ground?
 
Pics
 

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Looks like you have a standard run-of-the-mill dropped pitman arm on there (it doesn't look to be OEM anyway).
The pitman arm and drag link however are not why it constantly pulls to the right (again, that is because your caster & camber settings at your right-front wheel are out of whack).

The angle of the linkage however is another (separate) problem, which typically makes the truck feel like it has imprecise directional control, especially through dips or over uneven pavement (the actual term is bumpsteer, which causes the wheels to steer left & right as the suspension moves up & down). That one can be fixed pretty easily using the Skyjacker pt# FA600 drop pitman arm.

See this article:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2008/steering_tech.htm
 
either the road or mechanic sucks. Besides that theres always something pulling some way.
 
I would try to find a real alignment tech with some experience and suspension knowledge, your spec printout is out of the ball park.
 
This is on my franken-axled truck. Tech did take some time (1.5 hours). My truck pulls slightly depending on the crown of the road. On a good straight stretch with minor road crown I can let the steering wheel float for 1/4 mile before I need to correct it. And I have a bad upper ball joint on the passenger side that he found on the lift.

SOkCJbR.jpg
 
Who left the ball joint on the lift for him to find ? Just a bit of sarcastic humor to (hopefully) lighten your day.
 

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