• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Step By Step Guide for Replacing Lower Thermostat Housing


Excellent write up! And it will prove very useful to readers.

It certainly covered everything I went through when I replaced my thermostat (and then some).

The only thing I can think of adding, is that I routinely stuff some rags into any exposed opening to cover it up as I'm working on anything under the hood (e.g. the intake, or the end of the rad hose, or housing openings) until such time as I'm ready to close everything up - I've had experiences of things falling into any handy opening - and always at the worst time.

Again - great job!
 
north44: thanks for the tip. I do that myself but didn't mention it in the writeup. I'll add that.

kelly88: thanks. i mailed the site admin about linking to it from the tech library.
 
where is this guide for the thermostat replacement? no link that i can see.
 
I think I may have that same leak on my '05 Mazda B4000 which is the 4.0L SOHC engine. I smell antifreeze, and it's getting worse. See none on the ground though. I bought upper, lower and bypass radiator hoses and got started. I got as far as pulling off the air intake and upper hose at the block and stopped!! It looked like antifreeze around, what I thought to be, the thermostat housing near the pump. Then I thought it was a gasket for the thermostat since it looked like antifreeze may have been just ponding in an area on the block near the stat. So I stopped since the bypass hose replacement alone looked to be a PIA, and I didn't want to do all that work to find out it was a gasket. I have a Haynes manual, and sure enough (just like your instructions state) the method isn't there. It's not even there for replacing the bypass hose. Sooooooo, I think I have a gasket leak, BUT someone also said that the bolts on the water pump come loose after a while and the bolt closest to the stat tends to start leaking antifreeze, so a few folks on another site said, just re-torque the water pump bolts to spec, and that should work. I just don't want to miss anything after tearing into the job. So, I guess I'm just rambling, but I also need to purchase the heater core hoses, which aren't so readily available either. Anyway..... THANK YOU for the instructions. I've been looking all over for something like that!! TRS is awesome!!!!
 
Great write up. Should help many through there job. Wish I would have read this before doing mine, I wouldn't have had to make the 20 mile run back to the parts store to pick up two new clips for the sensors. Mine broke into pieces when pulling them out.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top