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Start and run engine, with transmission removed.


Doug Burgoyne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2023
Messages
69
City
Oregon
Vehicle Year
1984
Transmission
Automatic
Hello Rangers!
I have 84 Ranger 4X4 with 2.8 v6 & c5 auto trans. Transmission currently removed for overhaul. While it's out and being serviced, I'd really like to do engine things check oil pressure with a real Guage, check compression, probably replace oil pan gasket and rear seal, possibly oil pump if needed, test seals/gadkets for leaks prior to trans install, etc, etc. Is there any concerns with just mounting bell housing without trans back to motor with starter, to be able to turn over and start/idle? I can't think of any, but greatly value your guys' experience and opinions. Thanks!
 
No reason that I can think of that that would not work, just don't run for too long since there's no coolant in it, if running dry I might even leave the belt off so the water pump isn't turning dry
 
Thanks! I haven't drained coolant, so I'm not worried about cooking the ol 2.8.
 
I can't think of any reason why it couldn't be done . . . but - without the third point of mounting (the trans) watch out for the motor rocking front-to-back. Too muck rock and the fan may hit the shroud.

It's always a bad day when the "shroud hits the fan" (SHTF). :(
 
Bumping this to the 2.8 forum…
 
Thanks for the bump...wasn't sure where to ask this. Also, thanks for input RobbieD, good point on that. Fan shroud currently off...and don't plan on reving on it...but good thing for me to watch for!
 
You could put a jack stand under the bellhousing and wedge a piece of wood between the bellhousing and transmission tunnel to prevent rocking forward and back.
 
One more issue. Got bell housing and starter installed with jack and blocks to prevent engine movement. I have a 4 pin neutral safety switch plug, and need to jumper wire that to temp bypass that, in order to turn over. Can't find wire diagram in my ford shop manual for this. Not that great with electrical...just basics although I did convert truck to points distributor and standard carb. Any help greatly appreciated...didn't want to just guess at it. Thanks!
Doug
 
One more issue. Got bell housing and starter installed with jack and blocks to prevent engine movement. I have a 4 pin neutral safety switch plug, and need to jumper wire that to temp bypass that, in order to turn over. Can't find wire diagram in my ford shop manual for this. Not that great with electrical...just basics although I did convert truck to points distributor and standard carb. Any help greatly appreciated...didn't want to just guess at it. Thanks!
Doug
It looks like you need to make a jumper to connect the 2 Red(with light blue stripe) wires together.
 
Worked like a charm! Been sitting so long, had to fill carb bowl manually and prime the mechanical fuel pump. But running again! Oil pressure showed zero on dash "guage"...so I really wanted to be able to assess engine health while trans getting overhauled. Hooked up my mechanical dial guage and read about 55 psi cold with 10w30 (about 50 degrees out today)...so very happy to see that. Will get new sender. Next is compression test, but seems to run quite smooth...just quite a bit of valve train noise. Probably never adjusted by original owner. Anxious to pull those rocker covers to evaluate condition of rocker arm shaft wear and adjust the lash...for hopefully a little bit quiter engine. I understand solid lifters ain't gonna be silent. Will be nice to have rocker covers that don't leak!! I've read about using neoprene type gaskets there for best seal, but all I see online is the cork looking type. If anybody has a source, please share. Thanks again!
 

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