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Stalled While Driving


ddjo

Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2022
Messages
15
City
Austin, TX
Vehicle Year
2001
I'm looking for some suggestions to help with my '01 Ranger 4x4 4.0L.
I've had issues with it starting on occasion and since replaced the following:

1) Fuel Pump
2) Fuel Pump Relay/Fuse
3) Fuel Filter
4) Throttle Position Sensor
I also cleaned out the MAF/IAT sensor and IAC.

I thought the issue had been resolved until it stalled while driving yesterday. I waited about 2-3 minutes after failed start attempts, unplugged the MAF/IAT connector and my truck started. After starting, I plugged the MAF connector back in and drove home. OBDII code displayed a P0113 (high air temp), but that's likely because I unplugged the MAF/IAT connector. Tested the IAT pins with a a multi-meter and hair dryer and it appears to function properly (changes as I move between ambient temp and hair dryer).

My next step is to inspect the connector and wiring. If that's not the issue, I'm out of ideas of what to test next to diagnose.
Any help/ideas appreciated!
 
Get a can of brake cleaner, the kind that the engine will burn. Next time it quits on you, spray some down the aircleaner and see if it will start. You can also get one of those spark checkers if you do not have coil on plug ignition.
 
auto or standard? and does it stall as you come to a stop? and are you in Overdrive if it is an auto?
 
50/50 Test:
* Carry a can of EngineStartingSpray.
* Next time it wont start, spray some into IntakeManifold.
* Try cranking+starting again.
If it starts & dies after a few seconds, you've got a Fuel problem.
If it does NOT start, you've got an Igition problem.
 
Do what was stated above with the starting fluid.

Just pissing in the dark but it kinda seems like the coilpack.
 
auto or standard? and does it stall as you come to a stop? and are you in Overdrive if it is an auto?
Auto and in overdrive.
If I remember correctly, I was coasting toward a stoplight not far away.
This is the first time its happened while driving. In the past, I'd get to my destination (everything seems fine) and encounter a non-start condition when I needed to get home.
 
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there is a reason i am asking.... i drive my truck in 3rd all the time and not in OD when stop light to stop light... and OD when i hit open road for extended periods .... what has happened to my truck is I get a torque converter lock up if I am driving in OD stop light to stop light and the trans will kill the engine when the truck is coming to a stop. when driving in 3rd, it has never happened yet. if I am on open road and coming off the highway, and know there will be a stop coming, i will place the trans into 3rd way before the stop, this seems to let the trans spin up freely to the right pressure and will not stall the engine.

when the engine was stalling, after it would sit for 5-10 minutes, the oil pressure seemed to be normal again and the truck would fire up.

first time it stalled out, i was very close to home so chain towed it into drive way then spent time going over all the usual suspects... fuel, spark, etc ... even to the point of considering the alt was bad and killing the electrical system some how. as she seemed to die on lowering RPMs. after talking to the mechanic at work about it, he said to try just driving around town in 3rd, and not OD. he had a car that did the same thing (would die) and he drove it like that forever and never stalled after.

food for thought and not sure if this is your troubles or not, but something to consider.

cheers
 
I was able to get my Ranger to stall twice today.

After the first stall, I placed some electrical wire in the relay housing to jump pins 3 & 5 on the fuel pump relay. After reinstalling the relay with the jumper, my truck started. Turned it off, removed the jumper, and reinstalled the relay. I wanted to see if this fix would work again.

After the second stall, I sprayed some starting fluid into the air intake. It did better (almost turned over completely), but then died after the initial start. Installed a jumper for pins 3 & 5 and reinstalled the relay. Truck started and I drove home with no issues. When I got home, I turned off my truck, removed the jumper and my truck wouldn't start again.

This makes me think the connection in the relay housing is the problem. Do they sell replacement relay/fuse boxes, or should I try to strengthen the relay connection with foil or another conductor? Thanks for all the help so far!
 
I recommend never using foil, or over riding the fuses primary purpose, to kill a circuit before it starts a fire
 
Agree. How would you strengthen the connection?
I would prefer addressing the problem rather than overriding the safety fuse

My mom had a 60 something Dodge Dart that had a foiled over fuse in it. Who ever put it there decided the brake lights were more important than the working fuse, which no doubt had kept blowing.
I was driving it and not far from home came upon some roadwork and was stopped by a flagman, a situation where sometimes I would just park it, but that time I just held the brake thinking it would not be long

It was long enough for the wires to the short the fuse was supposed to protect to overheat. Soon I was sitting in a car full of smoke. I shut it all down and luckily no fire erupted, lucky me.
I did eventually pull the harness and tape the burnt wires but I don't recall what came of the car

That was not just a 25 cent fuse, it was protecting a vehicle and the lives that happened to be depending on it
 
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I would prefer addressing the problem rather than overriding the safety fuse
Likewise. I am asking how to go about addressing the female connection to the relay to ensure there's a proper fit. The bypass was a temporary solution to isolate the issue and get me home.
 
Can you post a photo of it?
 
Here's the fuel pump relay in the engine fuse box. Looks like there's a way to remove the brown plastic covering the female receptacles.
IMG-3378-M.jpg
IMG-3374-M.jpg
 
What I would do is take pliers and twist the prongs on the relay ever so slightly. This should make them tighter in the socket. Don't over do it, if you do it won't go in the socket. Just right and it should stiffen it up and make the elec connections better.
 

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