son of a bishop -- seized compressor

[MAKG]

Well, my compressor died on the highway in the middle of nowhere yesterday. I noticed a burning smell (though, remarkably, astonishingly little noise -- just a very subtle rubbing sound). So I pulled over, and saw acrid black smoke coming from under the hood. Turned off the A/C and it stopped.

The compressor hub was completely seized, and the belt was slipping. So, I need a compressor, maybe a condenser (Ford black death), massive flush, drier, orifice tube, and of course a serpentine belt. Is it necessary to replace the compressor lines due to the integral filter? I'd think so.

I use A/C almost continuously all year to dessicate the air. Now, the compressor is unplugged so I can use the now-emasculated defogger (it's better than nothing).

I'm a bit stunned that that slipping serpentine belt didn't squeal like a stuck pig. I wouldn't have known there was a problem except for the smell. At least the belt didn't break; not having a water pump more than 25 miles from the nearest town would have been a bit of a problem.

This is the 4.0L Exploder.

 

[skippy]

aside from the expense for parts,we know you can do the work.never happens in the driveway does it?ouch.good luck and happy wrenching.

 

[Ranger44]

Are you looking to pick up a used compressor or new? Got a good, but used one off a 2.3 Ranger. I'd think they were the same as one for a 4.0. Let me know. Thanks

 

[skippy]

Well, my compressor died on the highway in the middle of nowhere yesterday. I noticed a burning smell (though, remarkably, astonishingly little noise -- just a very subtle rubbing sound). So I pulled over, and saw acrid black smoke coming from under the hood. Turned off the A/C and it stopped.

The compressor hub was completely seized, and the belt was slipping. So, I need a compressor, maybe a condenser (Ford black death), massive flush, drier, orifice tube, and of course a serpentine belt. Is it necessary to replace the compressor lines due to the integral filter? I'd think so.

I use A/C almost continuously all year to dessicate the air. Now, the compressor is unplugged so I can use the now-emasculated defogger (it's better than nothing).

I'm a bit stunned that that slipping serpentine belt didn't squeal like a stuck pig. I wouldn't have known there was a problem except for the smell. At least the belt didn't break; not having a water pump more than 25 miles from the nearest town would have been a bit of a problem.

This is the 4.0L Exploder.

i recommend reading the sticky by some guy named makg,might help you out.

 

[MAKG]

Are you looking to pick up a used compressor or new? Got a good, but used one off a 2.3 Ranger. I'd think they were the same as one for a 4.0. Let me know. Thanks

It looks like the store I bought it from is going to warranty it.

 

[shadetree]

The compressor siezed on my F150 about 3 years ago. It was working when I stopped the truck, and when I turned it back on again, it wouldn't turn. I replaced the compressor only, and it has worked fine since. A/c tech said black death usually gives other symptoms over a period of time. shady

 

[Ranger44]

It looks like the store I bought it from is going to warranty it.

Glad to hear that MAKG.

 

[Bob Ayers]

It looks like the store I bought it from is going to warranty it.

Wonderful news!!!

 

[MAKG]

I have to admit, this is why I buy parts from these guys.

It's in (ready for pickup), and they DID warranty it. I'm going to have a shop recover the remaining refrigerant and flush it. The jury is still out on whether I need a condenser or compressor lines; we'll see what the flush comes out with.

It appears the repair will be less than $100 for the flush (labor and flush fluid), and parts will be around $60, counting the refrigerant. As usual, replacing the accumulator/drier, and orifice tube. I have all the equipment to charge R-134a, and I'm perfectly willing to let the vacuum pump suck for hours.

Shady, what other symptoms?

 

[shadetree]

Shady, what other symptoms?

Intermittent cooling. Slowly loses the ability to cool similar to a loss of refrigerant. Evaporator freezing were a few he mentioned. shady

 

[MAKG]

Hmm, I've been running the defogger, so I doubt I'd notice intermittent cooling. The defogger seems a LITTLE worse than it used to be, but that's really easy to fool oneself with. And those symptoms sound like a plugged orifice tube. If that's what's going on, pulling the orifice tube ought to make it really obvious, right?

The static (engine off) low side pressure is just under 40 PSI. This thing is fully charged. Since the compressor is seized, I can't measure it running like I'm supposed to.

It's going to be flushed Friday; I'll ask for the orifice tube and whatever goop comes out with it in a baggie.

The A/C tech says they can "usually" flush parallel-flow condensers like the aftermarket one I have. I find that a bit hard to believe. Does your A/C tech concur? Thanks a bunch.

 

[skippy]

I have to admit, this is why I buy parts from these guys.

It's in (ready for pickup), and they DID warranty it. I'm going to have a shop recover the remaining refrigerant and flush it. The jury is still out on whether I need a condenser or compressor lines; we'll see what the flush comes out with.

It appears the repair will be less than $100 for the flush (labor and flush fluid), and parts will be around $60, counting the refrigerant. As usual, replacing the accumulator/drier, and orifice tube. I have all the equipment to charge R-134a, and I'm perfectly willing to let the vacuum pump suck for hours.

Shady, what other symptoms?

if you have a thermister micron guage and the time,let the vacuum pump pull on it overnight.shoot for 100 microns or lower.

 

[MAKG]

My gauge isn't nearly that good -- it's just the vacuum side of my manifold gauge set, and I'm lucky to read down to 0.5 inches. But I do have the time, as long as the weather is decent.

The vacuum pump is a dinky converted R-12 Robinair, but it serves. Got it used for $30....

 

[skippy]

your vacuum pump should be ok,vehicles are small systems.micron gauge is a separate device w/hose that attaches to another available port and reads in microns.i pressure test w/dry nitrogen and soap bubbles for system tightness then blow nitrogen if ok,evacuate w/the pump.i let the pump pull for 15 minutes,then break the vacuum w/nitrogen to 0 psi,vacuum for 15 min,break w/nitrogen to 0 again,then let the pump run all nite.used to break w/refrigerant but it is illegal now.helps clear any pockets of air or non condensibles.micron guages range from about $100 to bend over,and are nice to have but your not dealing w/a $100,000 water chiller there.anyway good luck.

 

[skippy]

ps,change vacuum pump oil after each use.meaning when you complete the job,before you put the pump away.