Solid Axle, 2WD to 4WD

[colordranger27]

how much you think all in all when done it cost ya?

 

[colinrmitchell]

It cost about $1000 to get the axle under the truck. That includes the axle, the steering setup, brackets, leaf springs. I didn't get new shocks (yet).

To finish, it looks like I'll need:

4R44E output shaft and tailhousing - $40
Gasket kit - ???
D30 3.73+ carrier - $50
4.56 gears and install kit - $200
Lock-rite - $250
Driveshafts - $150
????
Profit!

I guess no more than a grand to get it all squared away.
I expect it to be a pretty mean ride when it's done, unless I brake stubs shafts every time I pull out of the driveway. We'll have to see.

 

[colordranger27]

nice i was thinkn bout the sas but i went with the 4'' rc lift oh well hopn to still go far in it and you can always upgrade yur shafts to run 33's fine

 

[kris97ranger]

everyone always catches sh*t for using a dana 30 but like u say its easy to upgrade bigger later. alot does have to do with the driver as well. and as far as i see a dana 30 has to be better then 2wd. hows it working out for u?
________
VOLCANO VAPORIZER

 

[86 slo-vo]

the 30's are pretty tough i dont care what anybody says ive beat the hell out of 2 different xj's on 33's with no problems...but this was on HP axles

 

[882wdrngr]

this si what i want to do with my truck. any progress?

 

[colinrmitchell]

Hey guys:

Quick update. This week is my spring break, so I plan to get the transmission out of the truck.

I got the 4x4 output shaft and tailhousing from a local shop. Also got a full overhaul kit (clutch packs, seals, etc). The kit didn't come with bands, which (I think) I am disappointed with.

Be it so, I will rebuild the transmission in the next few weeks. I hope to take lots of pictures and write an article of what I did, hopefully to help others in my similar situation.

Hope you all well!

 

[colinrmitchell]

Well, I got the transmission torn apart, put the 4x4 output shaft in it, and put everything back together, carefully with the aid of an ATSG paint-by-numbers book.

Only I have run into a problem, hopefully one of you knowledgeable guys can help me.

When we took the transmission out, the engine was relatively easy to turn over when taking off the torque converter-to-flexplate nuts.

Now, when we were trying to put them back on, the engine seemed pretty tough to turn over, although not impossible. Here's the deal:

Recall it is a 2.3L with a 4R44E.
The truck sat for two weeks without being run while I did the work.
The torque converter is half-filled with fluid, since that's about all I could keep in it while trying to put it back onto the transmission. It turned easily by hand once installed.
We got the transmission to slide on and bolt up pretty easily (easier than I anticipated).
I did not fill the transmission with oil yet.
I did not think of turning the engine without the transmission mounted. I guess I could take it back off and try to turn it, if someone doesn't know the solution to my problem.

So I'm wondering why the engine has become so difficult to turn? Is it because it sat for two weeks, so it just needs oil run through it? Or did I not line the transmission up completely square and it's binding up somewhere? Or is this normal, and I should just put fluid in it and turn it over?
Did I not get the torque converter lined up in the pump right? (I turned it and felt it "seat") Or did I miss a preparation step before I put it in?

I don't want to start it up and blow something up!

Thanks for the help, from a transmission n00b!

 

[jds4racing]

Is the axle you started with and the one you actually put in the truck or just a modified Cherokee front axle? Does anyone know a way to convert a Cherokee axle to one piece shafts and use Manual hubs? I've heard of using Grand Cherokee Shafts in the Cherokee axle to Eliminate the CAD Disconnect Bullshit! Is That possible?

 

[colinrmitchell]

Nevermind, I didn't seat the torque converter right.

jds4racing:

The axle I started with is the same as in the truck now. Late 90's Cherokees had axles that did not have a vacuum disconnect. I think like 1997-2000 or something like that. I am not sure about manual hubs, I think the only way to put them on is with a really expensive kit.

I think you can take the guts out of the vacuum disconnect and put one-piece Cherokee shafts in, but I would ask someone more knowledgeable before going and doing it.

 

[colinrmitchell]

Well, I seated the torque converter in the pump properly, and somehow wrestled that bad boy up onto the engine. Hooked most everything up, filled it with oil, and went for a test fire. All of the gears seem to work okay! No leaks or whining or grinding noises, so I think I might be okay.

Now I just need to stop at the junkyard to'morrow and get a driveshaft, and I should be ready for a test drive.

 

[colinrmitchell]

Wrong, I don't have any gears.

Put the rear up on stands to test. In any gear on the selector, the tires only want to go forward, and I have to really rev it up to get the tires to turn. Reverse lights come on when I put it in reverse, so I'm pretty sure the TR sensor is okay.

After messing with it for a few minutes, noticed the fluid smells burnt. Then it's slipping real bad.

So I took the valve body off and checked it closely to make sure everything was in the right place. Checked the check balls, L retainers, etc. Everything was in the right place. I torqued it back on to spec and filled the trans with oil. Still does the same thing. The VB has new Transtec gaskets.

So here's my guess, because I'm kinda stumped:

1. We put the torque converter in incorrectly the first time, and being dumbasses, spun the engine anyways to torque down the flexplate-to-converter nuts. We did NOT, however, start the engine like this. We maybe spun the crankshaft 2-3 full rotations.

2. Took the trans back off and seated the converter properly. Converter had 1/4" play in it when transmission was seated, so it was in seated properly according to everybody.

3. My guess is that we fudged the pump or something in it by turning it while the TC was not seated right. So this caused some kind of damage or leaking which leaves the trans with no or very low pressure for shifting. Looking in the ATSG book, it looks like the trans would be in 3rd gear with no bands applied, which may explain the behavior.

When I was testing it, the O/D light started flashing. My cheap reader didn't find any codes. I'm hoping my buddy's reader may be able to read the code.

Anybody have any ideers?

 

[Bent Bolt]

Get the codes read then I'll give you a hand. The cheap - and even the not so cheap - code readers won't pull tranny codes.

I don't think the pump is fubar , as you obviously were able to put in enough fluid , like 10 L worth ,and the level is normal, right ?

 

[Str8sixfan]

Never got any resolution on this

Hi, first post over here. I'm a regular over at some f150 sites, but I sold my effer about 4 years ago. Anyway, I found this build thread after I bought my own ranger. Everything about my truck is nearly identical to this buildup. I've probably had this link bookmarked for close to a year & half.

Anyway I just ordered a 4x4 output shaft for my auto, and wanted to know if you ever got this issue worked out?

I have a free d30 I scored from a friend, and originally I was going to go coils, but it appears when my buddy took it off of his dad's xj they may of torched the lower arm mounts, so I'm actually now considering doing a leaf set up. Anyway just wanted some follow up on this if I could. I've been lurking for long, and the owner seams to be still active for what I can tell.

 

[Str8sixfan]

Tailhousing and tailshaft showed up in the mail today! Now I'm realistically probably at best 8 months away before starting the conversion, but the parts are starting to add up.