Solid Axle, 2WD to 4WD

[colinrmitchell]

Alright, I got back to work on this thing finally. I got the front suspension torn out, and got the axle under there to mock things up. I'm going to try to do some research on after market spring dimensions, but if I can't find anything just right, I'll probably get some custom springs made.

I'm having trouble figuring out how to do the shackle hanger on the front. I'm thinking I might just make a crossmember on the bumper, gusset and support it real good, and then add more bolts to hold the bumper on. And if that doesn't quite work, I'll just weld the bumper to the frame.

Here's some poseur shots:

 

[Boggin]

ive been following this but my first post here, its looking really good and the best of luck with it

 

[c_note]

well damn, just a week ago i took 4 leafs from a yota to the scrap that could have been turned into a pretty decent pack.

i have a set of perches layin around that fit the dana 30 tubes along with some u-bolts if you want them. pm me if interested.

btw, are you gonna use the factory drive shaft? just curious cuz i have to build a custom shaft with double cardan and machine a new flange for my t-case.

 

[Dishtowel]

As for shackle hangers up front.... Do some research by looking at Toyota SAS kits. Good place to start is the PBB yota forum.

 

[bobbywalter]

i prefer the shackles to the back.

unless you protect them with some sort of bumper setup. its easier to kink the springs with a front setup and its why alot of guys actually go to a rear setup.


with a reg cab you can get away with rear leafs from a sploder/b2/2wd 150. or toyotas ect..rear straight axle stock chevy springs can be nice too...and of course the mentioned jeep waggy/cj/yj stuff.

i used the rbv setup like cheapthrills with a v8 ext cab last fall and fawked em up. just too soft and my truck was way way too tall.. i tried various stuff...and eventually i went to shackle rear with 4 in lift dodge springs modded ...and will possibly run a further modded rbv pack again as well as i have found a better medium..



i do agree if a guy is gonna regear and full case lock a d30 and buy huge shafts/lockout kits ect its a waste. but running a 30 that was 200 or less and is ready to install that is usable is definatly worth it.

i have been working with a guy to produce a bracket kit for this. he was laughing at my current setup which was hacked out of my bumper as i donated the original to a customer that had a collision with a d60 swapped fs chevy i did some time back.. it took minimal time to mod it to work with his damaged truck.. i have never fixed the setup i have now...cause it works so well...it just looks bad.

but i could give a flying fat rats ass on what it looks like. it actually fits that ugly pos this way in any case it only takes a few hours to do this swap if you really want it done and figure the parts ahead of time.

 

[lunchbox]

Hey Colin, someone on here had some pics of a really nice front bumper/shackle hanger set-up that I planned to rip off for my 2wd-4wd waggy axle swap. Not a copy, but the general idea with my own little twist to it. I can't find the thread now, but I saved some of the pics for reference. Give me a minute and I'll repost someone else's hard work.


::EDIT::

Nope, I was wrong, I can't post pics. PM me and I will e-mail them to you though, unless you want to find them yourself.

 

[colinrmitchell]

I went to Summit today and got a pair of Pro Comp 2" lift springs for a Wrangler. So far, they look like they will work perfectly. They're 41" eye-to-eye unloaded, so I think they'll fit nicely. If they're too soft, I can always add-a-leaf.

I figured out about where the springs will sit, and it looks like I can make some brackets pretty easy. I'll be bolting them to the frame because: (1) I parked the truck too far away for the welder to reach, and (2) I don't trust my welding enough to do it. I'll get some steel in the next few days and get to work on the brackets. I also need to call the spring shop to get some U-bolts made. I need three 2.5" and one 3.25" U-bolts, since the one U-bolt will have to go around the diff housing.

Still need to get new rotors, brake pads, and hubs. I took the old hubs apart to clean and regrease. Turns out you can't buy just the seals for them. If only I had known...

I'll be holding off on the gears and carrier for a little while. I'll be doing 4.56:1. I'll start saving up for those, but worry about them when I'm ready to get the transmission and T-case installed. If anyone has an old lunchbox-locker for cheap, let me know.

I'll post pics up in a little while.

 

[colinrmitchell]

Oh, I forgot, I'll be welding on spring perches in the next couple of day. The driver-side spring perch will be half mounted on the diff housing, which is cast iron, obviously. I have a Lincoln AC-225, and I'll be using 1/8" 7018 rods. I know you want to heat up cast before welding, and then let it cool slowly, but that's all I really know. Anybody able to help me on proper current settings, how much to heat it up, and how to let it cool properly? Never done this before.

Thanks!
Colin.

 

[bobbywalter]

generally i make the setup all bolt on.

my next engine swap has this as a possible change in the front. i am preferring to do some frame work to facilitate cooling which will force a different approach to the front hangers. still have not made up my tiny little mind on that yet. i have a feeling once i do make up my tiny lil mind on that issue... it will be clattering shortly there after.

on edit,
personally i would run a hp d44 leaf housing over this attempt while its not going to be losing big money still. actually that is wrong...i would do a 60 if i was dumping ttb.... i would not do this incrementalism insanity....i would easily live with a ttb 35 with 33's being the main tire....if i were to start with a 2wd...i would run a 30/44...with stock ratios and keep the swap under 400 bux.


if its gonna cost more then that then i have to be getting something good...and a 30 isnt it.

i definatly agree with 2wd or sla the 30 is good to 35's and mild wheelin. and the most cost effective choice imo. they are everywhere and already built versions can be had from the jeepers gone 44/60/rocky whatever. if you want to do good shit and get a lil crazy or have a higher hp powertrain...well shit never ends does it?

 

[colinrmitchell]

I'll agree on many points with you, Bobby. It never does end, does it?

I know I'm catching a lot of heat for the D30, but I'm not made of money. I'm not going to dump money into the axle, just basics to get it running. I'm going to be keeping the 2.3L in there for a while (long while), so I don't think breaking shafts will be a big concern. Also, this is my first time doing a build like this, so I just want to keep it simple and learn how to get this to work. Also, I'm trying to build this to still be roadworthy, because it's my hunting and fishing truck, also. And if I ever went bigger tires, I would upgrade everything. But I won't until I win the lottery or marry a doctor or lawyer.

After thinking everything over, I thought the D30 would be best for my 2WD->4WD conversion. I got the axle for a deal, and I'm just gonna go with it. I might wheel a little hard, but I'm careful at the same time. Strength isn't my concern, I just want the suspension to work. And I REALLY hate that damn TIB suspension. Seems like everytime I go wheeling, I gotta spend an hour the next day getting the steering back right.

And didn't I read somewhere that the shafts on a D30 and D35 the same diameter? I didn't think the ring gears where that much different in size, but I have a bad memory.

Since I'm in a really good mood this morning, I want to thank everyone for their advice and time reading over my silly little thread. I may seem a little ig'nant, but I read what you post.

And I got some tube steel last night, so I hope to get the perches done tonight or to'morrow. Still looking on advice for welding the cast!

 

[Captain Ledd]

I'm pretty sure (around 95-98%) that both have shafts that are 1.16" 27 spline. The 30 might be 28, but it's still the same diameter. If shafts are really a problem alloy shafts can be obtained for the 30 far far more easier than the 35. or just replacement shafts in general. Yards are usually an assortment of Cherokees around my house.

If anything it'll be stronger because the tires aren't trying to go different directions when the suspension is cycled.

 

[4x4junkie]

And didn't I read somewhere that the shafts on a D30 and D35 the same diameter? I didn't think the ring gears where that much different in size, but I have a bad memory.

The shafts are the same size yes (1.16" 27 spline). The D30's smaller ring gear and pinion shaft diameters are what become the weak link (not exactly an easy trailside repair if it lets go)

 

[colinrmitchell]

Alright, I'm ready to weld the perches onto the axle tube. Now, do I want to line up the holes for the centering pins on them with the knuckles, or do I want to give some caster to it as well?

 

[4x4junkie]

You'll want between 3-5° positive caster at the knuckles (top leans toward the rear).

 

[colinrmitchell]

Okay, time for an update.

I got the spring perches and plates made, and got the perches welded to the axle, putting in 5 degrees of caster. I just need to get some rods to weld the perch to the cast iron on the one side. I also installed brake parts and hubs to see how it'll turn out. The new parts look purdy.

Bad picture, but my welding is getting better. 7018 @ 135A.

Before I welded, I installed the springs to hold the perches on temporarily, and checked the tire clearance on each side, lock-to-lock. Everything worked out fine.

I have my springs 29" pin-to-pin, so they'll sit half on the frame rails and half off. I'm waiting to get hangers and bushings in the mail from Ballistic, then I can get the suspension done.

I'm gonna leave the shocks in the coil towers for now, and weld some brackets to the axle outside of the spring perches.

Until I regear and get the 4x4 transmission, I'll run the D30 without a ring gear.

Also, I'm waiting on a high-steer knuckle, drag link and tie rod kit to come in the mail from Summit. The kit has some beefy 1-ton rod ends and is already assembled (saving me time so I can get this baby done faster). The knuckle has a high-steer arm that will clear the spring-over just fine, but will have the tie rod underneath the springs, which will be good enough for now. I'm glad I found this kit, as steering was going to be a big problem until I stumbled across it.

Still gotta hack a bunch off of the engine crossmember for clearance issues.

Got an electric transfer case, gonna convert it into some hokey manual setup:

So glad to be done with the TIB!