smart idea or no?

[kimcrwbr1]

I did my duraspark conversion for about $300 total with valve guide seals, carb, dizzy, module. If you want down and dirty try changing the dizzy and module for around $120. Yank out the computer harness and the maze of vacuum lines. The 2.8 is pretty bullet proof as long as it is getting good oil pressure and compression. I agree with doing the duraspark conversion. pressure wash the engine and pull the intake manifold and reseal it. Put in valve guide seals you dont need to pull the heads. You dont need another carb just rebuild that one mine runs best with the vacuum advance on manifold vacuum anyway. Clean it up duraspark it and run it till it pukes I did that almost three years ago and she starts right up and goes without a warm up, and once you get the oil leaks stopped I run synthetic 10-30 and a motorcraft filter. Autolite single platinum plug new wires and she pulls a pass at 70 now where it would never do before with the computer. Do the research get the parts and dont be afraid to ask for help.

 

[mn_smokeater]

Pictures of the enemy. Which way to the nearest trashcan? That's a 2150 alright, but packed with bullshit.

That's an automatic? Or does it have cruise control? Does it run? It's missing the oil fill cap.

There's a zip-tie AND a bread twisty on the choke linkage. And people want to ask how to get this thing working? This feedback carb IS a ziptie and a bread twisty, courtesy of Ford.

This is your project, not mine. I have experience at making things work. If you were my neighbor, I would say, go the way I suggested because I could help you with the couple things that might give you trouble. I don't know what you should do. I only know what I would do.

It's a 5 speed TK, Cruise works and is hooked up, it runs pretty good just bad mileage and smells rich, the choke i was told the PO wired open cause it stopped working. Il try to do as best i can to make stuff work and already your suggestions have helped me figure out alot so i will keep following them. Oil cap was still hooked to teh air cleaner so it came with it that way.

If you do not have emissions tests to worry about, you can save some money on the D/spark conversion by using the stock carb until you can afford the non-feedback 2150, just unplug the wiring connections......make sure to keep the wire that plugs in for the choke.....

You will also need to plug all of the carb vacuum lines that you do not need, connect a short hose to each of the vacuum ports & plug them off with a golf tee or a small tight fitting bolt.

I ran 2 '85 B2's & an '84 Ranger that way for quite a while, it is not the ideal setup as it tends to run rich but it will get you by & run pretty well. If you have emissions testing, you can get through with a little tweaking of the carb & timing but it is a PAIN..............

Unfortunately, the 2.8 is pretty expensive to rebuild......I LOVE the 2.8 no matter what anyone say's because I know what it is capable of.... If your's runs decent, do the D/spark conversion, it will probably last longer than you think....


B2

no emissions here what so ever, plus its missing a bunch of stuff like that AIR pipe thing(fell off) what can be stripped off the engine to get it barebones?

I did my duraspark conversion for about $300 total with valve guide seals, carb, dizzy, module. If you want down and dirty try changing the dizzy and module for around $120. Yank out the computer harness and the maze of vacuum lines. The 2.8 is pretty bullet proof as long as it is getting good oil pressure and compression. I agree with doing the duraspark conversion. pressure wash the engine and pull the intake manifold and reseal it. Put in valve guide seals you dont need to pull the heads. You dont need another carb just rebuild that one mine runs best with the vacuum advance on manifold vacuum anyway. Clean it up duraspark it and run it till it pukes I did that almost three years ago and she starts right up and goes without a warm up, and once you get the oil leaks stopped I run synthetic 10-30 and a motorcraft filter. Autolite single platinum plug new wires and she pulls a pass at 70 now where it would never do before with the computer. Do the research get the parts and dont be afraid to ask for help.

some of what i had to reply to yours is up above, the only accesory i want is cruise and heat ha.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I know nothing about cruise but pretty sure you need the computer there. Like I said try just rebuilding the carb first and make sure everything is connected and all the vacuum and air lines are correct. Some here have gotten lucky and the computer was still working correct but not too common. The main problem is the advance if there is somthing wrong with the emission crap the computer will go into limp mode and the advance will not work and it will run on base timing full time. maybe someone here will know about the cruise on you truck maybe it is independent to the computer my guess is the vehicle speed sensor is inline on the speedo cable and the throttle control is usually vacuum controlled actuator does it have a plunger or is it cable driven. That will give me somthing to do if I can find a schematic on the cruise system.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Other than it is cable actuated not alot of info in my chilton it is either vacuum or electronic servo but nothing on the computer diagram so it may be independent making it useable with the duraspark conversion.

 

[adsm08]

I still say TBI is the way to go.

Go see the "Shot Carb?" thread to see the proper removal method. It's in my first post. If you are tall, you might want to take the hood off.