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Sludge Horor Stories


SinnTax, i used that gunk high mileage motor flush stuff before my last oil change and it seemed to work well. I had some valvetrain noise at around 3k that i would guess was due to a sticky lifter or something similar, anyway this has disappeared since i used the motor flush. The gunk high mileage motor flush looks and smells like diesel and i did quite a bit of research before using it, all of which suggested it is similar or performs the same function as diesel. so anyway, pour it into cold engine, idle for five min, do not drive, cut engine, change oil. your oil will run out like water, it was noticeably thinner than normal as a result of the motor flush, also everything will smell like the stuff. The oil that came out was dirtier than normal, and like i said my problem went away, i would recommend this to be used with discretion. i think its good if you have a problem, but causes unnecessary wear if you dont.
 
also i take care of my vehicle and nothing stays in my crankcase for over 3k miles, so i was surprised to see the amount of crap that came out when i used the motor flush in comparison to a normal oil change.
 
Pour a quart of ATF about 100 miles before oil changes. You may need to drain some off first so you dont over fill it. It is high detergent and has good lubrication qualities. If you dont have oil leaks use synthetic oil 10w30 5w30 in colder climates. With good oil you dont need to change it but every 5,000 after you flush it a couple times with ATF. Take and rub some ATF on your greasy hands if you dont believe it has high cleaning properties. Dont run it for very long 100 miles at medium speeds it will also plug the filter rather quick depending how much crap is in there and change the PCV regular along with the breather filter if you have one, that is how crap gets into the engine.
 
A week ago i put 1/3 seafoam in crankcase, vacuum line, and gas. I am going to change the oil on saturday. I am debating on using regular castrol gtx 5w-30 or castrol syntec 5w-30. What is the the actual difference. It is starting to get cold down here in texas. So i want to change it soon. I have only driven the truck about 200 miles.
 
A week ago i put 1/3 seafoam in crankcase, vacuum line, and gas. I am going to change the oil on saturday. I am debating on using regular castrol gtx 5w-30 or castrol syntec 5w-30. What is the the actual difference. It is starting to get cold down here in texas. So i want to change it soon. I have only driven the truck about 200 miles.

I have been hearing good things for the price about shell rottella T6 it is synthetic.....walmart carrys it and they have the motorcraft filters...
 
I always use the fram filters. but are the motocraft ones better? Whats cheaper the syntec or t6?
 
I always use the fram filters. but are the motocraft ones better? Whats cheaper the syntec or t6?

there was that controversy about the fram filters so I just use the MOotorcraft........I think wally world has the rottalla for $20 and the filters for <$4
 
change oil & filter....after 2,500 miles change filter & add 1 qt of oil.....after 2,500 more miles change oil & filter....(this keeps the oil very clean)
 
thank you all for the input!

:icon_cheers:
 
I have been hearing good things for the price about shell rottella T6 it is synthetic.....walmart carrys it and they have the motorcraft filters...

ive been using the rotella 5w40 syntetic in my explorer with a motorcraft filter. its great. engine has more oil pressure, quiet on cold starts, and feels smoother, and has a little more pep.

my 4.0 sohc in my explorer is very picky on its oil. if i run anything but 5w30 the lifters tap for a second when its cold. and certain oils it dont like. quaker state is a no no in it. it taps when cold after 500 miles.

mobil clean 5,000 or rotella is all it takes.

i run rotella-t 15w40 in my older chevys. it is a diesel oil, but its for gasoline pickups seeing severe duty too.

it has all the zppd additives that all newer oils are missing for emmisions, which older flat tappet cams need or it will wear the lopes down faster.

all and all, i swear by rotella. its good stuff.
 
there was that controversy about the fram filters so I just use the MOotorcraft........I think wally world has the rottalla for $20 and the filters for <$4

i have proven on more than 3 cars that fram filters drop your oil pressure 10 psi when there dirty compared to a good bosch, motorcraft, wix, or purolater filter. and i have used different oil pressure gauges and come up with the same results gauge to gauge.

they also have a cardboard anti drain back valve, which allows for a dry start in the morning, because the oil pump has to fill up the filter first. not good for the rod bearings.

also, even just snugging them, you WILL crush the filter body when its time to change em. ive had to stick a screw driver through the filter, because i just crush it with my oil wrench.

this is just tightening it till the gasket touches, then about 1/4 to half a turn to make it snug.

for the same price, get a motorcraft filter, for about 2$ more, get a bosch.
 
yes, frams are notoriously shitty filters, i honestly dont know why they are still in business.

that being said the flush with clean out alot, shouldnt hurt anything if u follow the directions, but like has been said, afterwords id changed the oil more frequently to given it a good cleaning
 
I know everyone says dont use diesel or ATF, but it wont harm anything. I've run a quart of ATF every other oil change (4 quarts 10w-40 and 1 quart ATF) for the past 200,000 (extremely hard) miles. I just pour it in and run it for 4,000 miles. That engine has 310k miles on it now, never gave me any trouble. Its starting to burn a little oil now, but what do you expect at over 300k?
 
UPDATE:

I used the stuff as directed.

put it for prior to change, ran 5 min.

when I drained it, it was very BLACK!

I added this step: I drained 2/3s and filled back up with new cheap oil, and ran it for another 5 min for a extra flush.

Drained that out and very BLACK! Again.

changed filter and put new oil in.


ALL is well.

the stuff seemed to work, less engine noise, pressure unchanged.
I would do it again.

the stuff itself. when opened it had the SMELL and consistency of Diesel. wonder if the just add some detergent to a quart of diesel and call it good.


seemed to work, satisfied with results, was cheap, and most importantly it didn't make things worse :icon_cheers:
 
I've used ATF in lots of vehicals. Ran it anywhere from a day to a week depending on vehical (amount driven) before change, no problems.
 

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