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sas dana 44


I disagree with everything in this post. Wheel hop with a spool is simple to explain and I am pretty sure you could youtube it if you looked hard enough crank the wheel over locked down and goose it. Inside tire wants to spin at a different speed than the outside one depending on conditions that can and will lead to axle wrap and eventually wheel hop.

The angles look decent the pitman arm crap can't feel good and I would be willing to bet let's the front float and do whatever the hell it wants. On top of that ALL of the tubing looks like its should be on the front of a stock TJ not a 3500+ lb truck with a D44 under it and real tires.

^^I AM AT A LOSS ^^
I am locked on both ends and dont have wheel-hop.
PLEASE EXPLAIN THAT. Pretty please ! ! !
Not "Just youtube it, im sure there are videos explaining it"
You gotta built thread on your truck?


How much axle wrap can you get with radius arms? I know there rubber mounted on the axle and the frame but,,,,, thats not the problem.

When I had a D-44 SAS, i ran a radius arm set up. Only real difference between this one and mine,is i had Johhny Joints on the frame end, not factory rubber bushings.
I had ZERO wheel-hop ! ! ! !

EDIT : i found your build thread!!! If you can do a SAS you have to understand that a spool has NOTHING to do with wheel-hop!
Admit your wrong and move on.

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Just because you didn't doesn't mean he doesn't. Radious arms and rubber bushings will allow quitte a bit of axle wrap. With that cheesy tracbar I bet the axle moves a bit as well. You asked for an explanation there is one. With the front locked and standard steering I bet it binds quite a bit locked in and turning as well. I am saying on pacement or with good traction a spool+turning=wheel hop. Those tires want to move different speeds which causes the axle to bind. That force has to go some where.

Why don't you admit you don't quite know everything about everything before calling everyone else wrong.
 
Just because you didn't doesn't mean he doesn't. Radious arms and rubber bushings will allow quitte a bit of axle wrap. With that cheesy tracbar I bet the axle moves a bit as well. You asked for an explanation there is one. With the front locked and standard steering I bet it binds quite a bit locked in and turning as well. I am saying on pacement or with good traction a spool+turning=wheel hop. Those tires want to move different speeds which causes the axle to bind. That force has to go some where.

Why don't you admit you don't quite know everything about everything before calling everyone else wrong.

I didnt call everyone else wrong, only you......
Wheel-hop and axle wrap is caused by a load then unload situation, bad suspension geometry, worn out suspension parts or sometimes (rarely) by sidewall wrinkle from under inflation, but not from a locker or spool. There are other factors as well, but these are the most common.

I know how a locker and a spool work, i just want to hear how you think it works. I know that a differential lets one tire spin faster than the other.

I ran my pig without shocks for two or three test run trips and didnt have wheel-hop.

I DONT KNOW what exactly is causing your wheel-hop, but i DO KNOW its not from a locker or spool.
Todd S.


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I didnt call everyone else wrong, only you......
Wheel-hop and axle wrap is caused by a load then unload situation, bad suspension geometry, worn out suspension parts or sometimes (rarely) by sidewall wrinkle from under inflation, but not from a locker or spool. There are other factors as well, but these are the most common.

I know how a locker and a spool work, i just want to hear how you think it works. I know that a differential lets one tire spin faster than the other.

I ran my pig without shocks for two or three test run trips and didnt have wheel-hop.

I DONT KNOW what exactly is causing your wheel-hop, but i DO KNOW its not from a locker or spool.
Todd S.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are correct a locker cannot directly cause wheel hop however add poorly designed suspension and it can. That or having leafs which while not having anythiing to do with being a poor design when coupled with a locker front or rear wheel hop around corners.

Pretty easy to check as well. Unlock the hubs if it still hops its not the locker if it hops with them locked in and foot off the gas its the spool.
 
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A locker front or rear wheel hop around corners.
Well yea, but he said while he was "off road".

The OP really needs to chime in with some more info.

He said off roading it wheel-hops..... When climbing up a dirt hill, when stuck and just froggin the throttle, anytime the wheels spin,ect, ect???!!!???

Give us a acurate description of the situation when it did this.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
^^I AM AT A LOSS ^^
I am locked on both ends and dont have wheel-hop.
PLEASE EXPLAIN THAT. Pretty please ! ! !
Not "Just youtube it, im sure there are videos explaining it"
You gotta built thread on your truck?


How much axle wrap can you get with radius arms? I know there rubber mounted on the axle and the frame but,,,,, thats not the problem.

When I had a D-44 SAS, i ran a radius arm set up. Only real difference between this one and mine,is i had Johhny Joints on the frame end, not factory rubber bushings.
I had ZERO wheel-hop ! ! ! !

EDIT : i found your build thread!!! If you can do a SAS you have to understand that a spool has NOTHING to do with wheel-hop!
Admit your wrong and move on.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didnt call everyone else wrong, only you......
Wheel-hop and axle wrap is caused by a load then unload situation, bad suspension geometry, worn out suspension parts or sometimes (rarely) by sidewall wrinkle from under inflation, but not from a locker or spool. There are other factors as well, but these are the most common.

I know how a locker and a spool work, i just want to hear how you think it works. I know that a differential lets one tire spin faster than the other.

I ran my pig without shocks for two or three test run trips and didnt have wheel-hop.

I DONT KNOW what exactly is causing your wheel-hop, but i DO KNOW its not from a locker or spool.
Todd S.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Uuuhhhhhhh. WHAT?
Explain how a mini spool causes wheel hop please.




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^^What he said!!!! ^^
Need answers to these questions.....


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So do you even know what a locker is or how they work?
Im still waiting for a explaination on a spool causing wheel-hop... Please,,,, i really wanna hear this!!!!!

Anywho, to your problem.
Everthing looks great on your SAS. I would redo the drag link pitman arm setup. Single shear on a 4in bolt, its GOING to break. Take my word for it,please!!

As far as wheel-hop, everything looks fine. I say spring/shock/ tire issue. Try increase/decrease tire pressure 5-10psi at a time and try that. Its easy and free.
After that, try different shocks. I like the cheapy rancho 5000's. $50 ea at Oriellys.
Good luck and keep us updated.
Todd S.

Well yea, but he said while he was "off road".

The OP really needs to chime in with some more info.

He said off roading it wheel-hops..... When climbing up a dirt hill, when stuck and just froggin the throttle, anytime the wheels spin,ect, ect???!!!???

Give us a acurate description of the situation when it did this.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some of us work for a living and don't get the chance to play on the computer all day long. The man asked for some help as to why his truck has this problem. I answered....if you don't like it then OH WELL. I am just trying to help him solve his problem. Then you chime in calling everyone else who is trying to help a liar or a fake....why? Is it because they have never had truck of the month like you? Some of us work on a budget and don't spend all our money on our rigs. Do you have a hat that fits your big head of yours as all that knowledge is stored up there. If you are so good then maybe he should bring his truck to you to fix.

Now since you may need some more knowledge...... The frontend of my truck was hopping a couple months ago when I would turn. It took me sometime to figure out where my problem was. I took the front cover off the axle and seen that the pins were broke. I have a Lockright in it. I replaced the pins and the "hopping" went away. That is where I was getting my information from for the OP. With the pins being broke the locker was acting like a spool and not allowing the front tires to turn at different speeds........even offroad.

Is that the answer you was probably not looking for? Do you not like my explanation? If you don't like either I DON'T CARE. That was the problem I found with my truck and was passing the info to him. Respond how you will as I am done since you have all the right answers for his problem. So have at it.
 
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So I understand that the mini spool does not allow the front tires to turn at different speeds, so turning can be a problem and cause wheel hop. That is why I have heard if I don't need it, then don't lock both hubs in.

However, I was in the snow, and I was driving straight at a slight incline. So I don't think the mini spool should be a problem while driving straight.

The week before I ran into this problem of my wheel hop in the snow, I was 4wheeling in the mud and had no wheel hop (while going straight).

I looked at my shock stud bushings and they were worn out pretty bad, so I replaced them with new prothane Bushings. I hope that will make a difference?

About the pit arm crappy set up. I did that so the track bar and the drag link would line up and be at the same angle. Is it ok to have them at different angles? How should i fix this?

thanks for the help! :icon_cheers:
 
I would rework the track bar mount to make it at the same angle as the drag link with that crap on the pitman arm removed. You want your drag link/trac bar as flat as possible.

And as for the one guy saying the track bar looks wimpy and is causing the hop....how is that possible? The trac bar only controls side to side movement of the axle.

That all looks to be 1.5" .250 wall DOM correct? Plenty beefy enough.
 
I would rework the track bar mount to make it at the same angle as the drag link with that crap on the pitman arm removed. You want your drag link/trac bar as flat as possible.

And as for the one guy saying the track bar looks wimpy and is causing the hop....how is that possible? The trac bar only controls side to side movement of the axle.

That all looks to be 1.5" .250 wall DOM correct? Plenty beefy enough.

Not saying causing simply that its not helping anything. That also might be 1" DOM it could be poop pipe for all the OP has said... The axle is only ~2 3/4" thick tubes for reference.
 
Well he said he is using a 7/8" heims for his steering...that would require 1.5" OD 1" ID tube....
 
Well he said he is using a 7/8" heims for his steering...that would require 1.5" OD 1" ID tube....

1.5x.250" DOM on a chevy 8 lug D44

JeepBEAU042.jpg



poop tube?

attachment.php
 
Whatever, might be, might not be. He might have just tapped the tubing itself and not used bungs. Either way it isn't causing his issue.
 
Whatever, might be, might not be. He might have just tapped the tubing itself and not used bungs. Either way it isn't causing his issue.

Unless he is mispronouncing wheel hop that is really the crap steering jerking around.
 
As far as the steering goes. I just realized the pit arm that is on my truck is from my old 4in lift. So I can take that off and put a stock one on. Then I can get rid of all that stuff on top of the pit arm and still have the drag link in line with the track bar!! :yahoo:

The heim joints are 5/8 and the tubing is 1in....
the tubing might be a little small, but it seams really strong.
I my just get some weld in bungs, use the heim joints I have and i have some thicker tubing hanging around.
But is it worth all the work?
 

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