rotor/bearing question

[kevinsranger]

im buying a new set of rotors friday, they come with the race for the wheel bearing installed already, and i have brand new timkin bearings sitting at home, should i beat the races that come in the rotor out and use the ones with the timkin set? i thought the bearing and race had to match but is it just that u cant mix them up when they are used and you repack them?

 

[TomB1269]

do not mix them when used and do not use new bearing in the old race. The new races in the rotors and the new bearings will be fine. I have done it this way for years with my older cars, did it the same in June with my 02 Ranger.

 

[kevinsranger]

thanks man, thats what i figured, i just want to make sure, the old dana 35 wheel bearing syndrome is killing me

 

[AllanD]

Back years abo before modern quality control the advice above was
the only way to fly.

However even in different manufacturers quality control on the
dimensions of bearings is so close that it isn't possible to seperate
them by manufacture from purely dimensional standards.

Personally on new North American origin (US or Canada)) rotors
I wouldn't touch those factory seated bearings

On imported rotor (china?) I wouldn't use the rotors at all.

In either case I wouldn't disturb the factory seated bearings

The friction surfaces are true to THOSE bearing races.
They might not be to some OTHER races that you may
or may not get inserted completely....

BTW, I have often stated that replacing a bearing on a used rotor
is an act of stupidity.

As for the bearing cones I have personally re-used bearings across
three or more sets of rotors without issue.

Replacing something that isn't broke is Fiscal stupidity.

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[krugford]

I also have used bearing cones across multiple rotor sets. While I don't work for a company that manufactures bearings, I will all but guarantee that cones and rollers aren't matched at the factory. They're built to spec within a tolerance to work together.

If it were me, I would throw the new cones onto the races that are already in the hub/rotor and run'em.

How tight are you torquing the jam nut to? I believe spec says 150 ft-lbs, which is what I always ran without any issues. Some on this board recommend up to 250 ft-lbs. Either way, the jam nut needs to be tight.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Cones and rollers aren't matched at the factory at all. When you buy bearings from ford your get the cones and the rollers separately, not in sets.

16 inch pounds (hand tight) on the inner nut and 250ft/lbs on the outer.

 

[AllanD]

Cones and rollers aren't matched at the factory at all. When you buy bearings from ford your get the cones and the rollers separately, not in sets.

16 inch pounds (hand tight) on the inner nut and 250ft/lbs on the outer.

not only that but half the time you look at the races and cones
provided in blue ford boxes and the bearings are one of MANY
different manufacturers

Timken(US), Federal Mogul/Bower BCA (US), SKF (German) FAG (German)
Koyo (Japanese) or NTN (Japanese)

ANY of these are acceptable to me.

Anything made in China or India is suspect
(China more-so than India)

Even the ford axle bearings I have, still in ford boxes are a mix.

The current bearings in the '95-97 rtors on my truck are SKF...
Then again the original subcontractor that made my rotors was
Bosch so you'd half expect them to use German bearings

I don't recall if the current calipers on my trck are the Bosch or
the Bendix (I have both in my spares collection)

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