• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Rose2300's Build Thread


nice little truck!! hows the power and mpg?

well power wise its quicker than my 95 lima but way slower than my 03 4.0 sohc. mpg wise i havent used a full tank of gas yet but im close ill keep you posted on that one.

Because of the lack of power, and funds (needs front tires bad, and possibly ball joints/alignment) haha, im toying with the idea of a 2/3 drop, and an exhaust. im thinking of a super 44 with a long cherry bomb glasspack to to mellow out the fart sound a little, followed by a side exit if there's enough space.

Ill paint the center grille insert black, and i am still up in the air with whether i will paint the bumper black or color match it.
 
here's a better list of plans I have for it:
repaint the grille black and bumpers either black or color match (opinions?)

2/3 or 4/5 drop (rear may consist of explorer 8.8 (spring under axle) and 4.10s)

15/16in powdercoated d window steelies or soft 8's and low(ish) profile tires
depending on how they look with the drop.

black housing headlights/ HIDs
 
Well i finished respraying the grille, and poilished the center caps while I was at it.

Before:

downsized_0519021431.jpg


after:

downsized_0519021640.jpg


downsized_0519021741.jpg
 
It's been a while since i've posted, i've just been busy with work and gearing up for college. Anyways About 3 weeks ago I got my exhaust done. It's basically a catback 2.5 inch flowmaster super44 with a side exit. Sounds pretty good for a 4 cyl, and it sounds nothing like a little honda haha. I also grabbed some new tires for the front to last me till the new rims/tires combo. nothin fancy.

downsized_0616021428.jpg


Next I'm saving for the DJM 4/5 drop kit. I'll pair that with some nitro slammer drop shocks. Most likely I'll have to get a bolt in c-notch for the rear because the axle will be 1.5 inches from the frame with the bumpstops cut in half.
 
Last edited:
Can a Mod change the thread title to "Rose2300's Build Thread" please?
 
Thanks!

Well i topped off the tank earlier and found that i had achieved 36 mpg. This is because after the last tank came out to be just 24 mpg, i took it upon myself to attempt to hypermile my truck. Well, it worked to say the least. Last time i filled up was at 145 miles (more than a half tank left). Then i topped it off and applied my newfound techniques. At 145 miles i topped off and found i had only used 4 gal. The previous tank at 145 miles i used 6 gal. I'm pleased to say the least! I can only imagine that the drop will help to improve my mpgs as long as i stay close to the stock tire size.
 
Holy cow! 36 mpg! The most I've managed in my 2.3 OHC is 26 mpg. I think I need to get one of these DOHC motors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Update: The code i guess means a thermostat heater control circuit failure. when I went to check the thc I noticed an open hole on the heater motor (pics below, its in the middle of the picture) so I reconnected the hose, ill get a pic of it connected tomorrow, and hopefully it doesnt throw another code. Im hoping nothing got sucked up there and fouled up the sensor so ill hope for the best haha.

downsized_0516022013.jpg

You mean the Evaporator drain? You don't want that plugged up unless you are going to build a koi pond in the truck, but it won't cause your code and there isn't really any "sensor" in there to get "fouled up".

Your thermostat uses an electric heater coil to help get the engine up to temp faster. Find the plug and check for key on 12V harness side and then check resistance on the component side, should be around 5 ohm IIRC. If it's not 3 to 5 ohm, get a new heater unit.
 
If it wasnt meant to be plugged why is there a hose that connects perfectly to it? I'll try to get a pic of the hose after work.
 
If it wasnt meant to be plugged why is there a hose that connects perfectly to it? I'll try to get a pic of the hose after work.

No, I'm pretty sure it's supposed to have the hose on it.

I mean plugged as in clogged with debris. Plugged, as in that thing that happens to your colon when you eat a whole bag of cheese sticks at once. Plugged, like what that little dutch kid in the cartoons tries to do to the holes in the dam.

The hose is supposed to keep it from becoming plugged.
 
Oh. haha i gotcha. where is the thermostat heater i should be looking for?I'm guessing on the t-stat? where's that on this engine?

and as mentioned on my dedicated thread for the cel on, the light turned off a few days ago and hasn't turned on since. There could be a correlation between my "hypermiling" driving style and the code being cleared, because the truck only throws the code under hard, high rpm driving, and for the past 1 and a half weeks, I haven't hardly gone over 2k.
 
T-stat is in the dumbest possible spot. It is on the side of the block, in a less than easily-accessible spot. Makes it really hard to get all the air out of the system too.

Looked up the resistance spec, I was wrong. It's 14-16 ohm, not 3-5.


I have seen other people describe exactly what you have, the light stay out until you do a hard push, and then it sets the code. In every instance I have seen it was the thermostat heater that was at fault.
 
Is it a big deal if i dont replace it for a while? From what i can tell it's not affecting the driveability at all.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top