The pinion becomes tiny on a D60 with the lower gears, (higher numerically). A rockwell you dont have that problem and you get the gearing you need.
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Rockwells or Dana60's???
- Thread starter BowTech99
- Start date
The pinion becomes tiny on a D60 with the lower gears, (higher numerically). A rockwell you dont have that problem and you get the gearing you need.
I don't know a whole lot about tons and rocks, but here's my 2 cents.
If you insist on keeping your 4cyl, I'd run the 60/14 bolt combo. Especially if you're only gonna run 40-44's. Clearance aside, rocks are a LOT of unsprung weight.
Run a decent gear (5.13 max) and double cases. You'll have all the gear you need, trust me.
I think you'd be fine with that combo, under a 300hp ranger (out of a 4cyl? where's the dyno sheets
), on 44's in mud.
If you insist on keeping your 4cyl, I'd run the 60/14 bolt combo. Especially if you're only gonna run 40-44's. Clearance aside, rocks are a LOT of unsprung weight.
Run a decent gear (5.13 max) and double cases. You'll have all the gear you need, trust me.
I think you'd be fine with that combo, under a 300hp ranger (out of a 4cyl? where's the dyno sheets
), on 44's in mud.
The shock load of major torque from the built v8's that usually power 1 ton equipped trucks won't be present with a turbo 4 banger, so either should do....
If you do go the dual case route, I'd probably run a fairly highly stall'd auto as it will allow you to run through gears without fear of losing momentum/boost and depending on the doubler setup letting off the throttle will allow you to grab a range in the tcase's as well. I know a friend of mine with a 4runner is running a 4.3L/700r4=dual cases, he uses the low/low to get it moving in deep snow/mud then grabs 1 high range to crank the wheel speed up and it flat out moves and get's on top of the chosen terrain rather then power through it.
If you do go the dual case route, I'd probably run a fairly highly stall'd auto as it will allow you to run through gears without fear of losing momentum/boost and depending on the doubler setup letting off the throttle will allow you to grab a range in the tcase's as well. I know a friend of mine with a 4runner is running a 4.3L/700r4=dual cases, he uses the low/low to get it moving in deep snow/mud then grabs 1 high range to crank the wheel speed up and it flat out moves and get's on top of the chosen terrain rather then power through it.
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I used to think the high-revving 4-cyl was a good avenue too, until I started wheeling a low-revving equally as torquey v-8 rig. I will be the first to tell you that there is really no comparison between the two. Unless you can bring your peak torque down to about 1500RPM, that little squirrwl cage isn't going to be very useful for anything but wide open flat mud pits.
I would go with Mog axles hands down. If I could have found a set before cutting up my Ranger, I might have swapped them in.
Jus' Sayin'.
I would go with Mog axles hands down. If I could have found a set before cutting up my Ranger, I might have swapped them in.
Jus' Sayin'.
BowTech99
Well-Known Member
I will not have an auto in Any of my play rigs. I like shifting gears too much. Also I dont know a thing about mog axles and wouldn't even know where to look for em lol.
I've actually been lookin at some portals. Heard real good things about them!!
And Also, I would rather stay away from dual cases. Thats just not the route I want to go. If i do any crawling at all, it'll be goofing off in a ditch or crawling over tree's and stumps. I've been talking around with a bunch of different guys, and I've pretty much made my mind up.
D60 front with 14Bolt rear or D60 rear. Lowest possiable gears I can Find. Spool rear, air locker front. I will leave the rear Leaf sprung with king shocks, and the front will be King coilovers with 4-link. As for tires, between 38-40" bogger. Still haven't decided on T-case, weather or not I want independent case, or mated 1354BW.
And thanks guys!! If you got somethin to throw in lets hear it!!
P.S Bray D, 300hp is kinda low, Just depends on how high the boost gets turned up
I've actually been lookin at some portals. Heard real good things about them!!
And Also, I would rather stay away from dual cases. Thats just not the route I want to go. If i do any crawling at all, it'll be goofing off in a ditch or crawling over tree's and stumps. I've been talking around with a bunch of different guys, and I've pretty much made my mind up.
D60 front with 14Bolt rear or D60 rear. Lowest possiable gears I can Find. Spool rear, air locker front. I will leave the rear Leaf sprung with king shocks, and the front will be King coilovers with 4-link. As for tires, between 38-40" bogger. Still haven't decided on T-case, weather or not I want independent case, or mated 1354BW.
And thanks guys!! If you got somethin to throw in lets hear it!!
P.S Bray D, 300hp is kinda low, Just depends on how high the boost gets turned up
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Just curious why you don't wanna double up cases.
It solves your gearing problem, and allows you to run a stronger ring and pinion. The only difference is you'll be putting ~2.5 times more torque through your driveshaft. The axles will see the same torque whether the reduction comes from another t-case or from deeper axle gears.
With tons or rocks, you'll need to run a larger driveshaft anyways, so that solves any strength issue in that area. Double cases with moderate axle gears sounds like a win to me.
It solves your gearing problem, and allows you to run a stronger ring and pinion. The only difference is you'll be putting ~2.5 times more torque through your driveshaft. The axles will see the same torque whether the reduction comes from another t-case or from deeper axle gears.
With tons or rocks, you'll need to run a larger driveshaft anyways, so that solves any strength issue in that area. Double cases with moderate axle gears sounds like a win to me.
BowTech99
Well-Known Member
honestly, im not familar with dual cases. And it sounds like a nightmare to hook up. What 2 cases could i run behind a 2.3L? There aren't many options. Could I run 203/205doubler, and would i hook it up like a independent case???.
But then my rear DS will be like 2ft long and my front will be 5ft long!!! If im correct on how the dual case works.
And I've def made my mind up on tons. D60/14 bolt combo,
Scream sacrilege all you want, I want strong parts with a big aftermarket.
But then my rear DS will be like 2ft long and my front will be 5ft long!!! If im correct on how the dual case works.
And I've def made my mind up on tons. D60/14 bolt combo,
Scream sacrilege all you want, I want strong parts with a big aftermarket.
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just buy an atlas and bolt it in and get new shafts.
-you would have to run rbv t cases behind a 2.3L
-a doubler will change your driveshaft lengths.
-you would have to run rbv t cases behind a 2.3L
-a doubler will change your driveshaft lengths.
That's funny. Maybe he's got the money to blow, but the average joe isn't willing to drop $2,000+ on a transfer case.
You can build an RBV doubler for 500 bucks, and still have more gearing options than an atlas (unless you drop some serious coin for a 4 speed). The rbv cases are much lighter, and have high availability. They're pretty tough cases, but if you happen to grenade one, there's heaps of them in junkyards.
I'm doubled with a single cab, short bed ranger. My front and rear drive shafts are within 1" length of each other. Can't beat that IMO.
Why are dual cases a nightmare? Its just a planetary gear set that provides additional reduction. Super simple really. Start searching noob
You can build an RBV doubler for 500 bucks, and still have more gearing options than an atlas (unless you drop some serious coin for a 4 speed). The rbv cases are much lighter, and have high availability. They're pretty tough cases, but if you happen to grenade one, there's heaps of them in junkyards.
I'm doubled with a single cab, short bed ranger. My front and rear drive shafts are within 1" length of each other. Can't beat that IMO.
Why are dual cases a nightmare? Its just a planetary gear set that provides additional reduction. Super simple really. Start searching noob
Well, king coil over shocks and 40" boggers ain't exactly cheap either, and he mentioned "strong parts with a big aftermarket." True a doubler costs a lot less than an atlas, why do you think that I went that route? I think if you are up to doing a four link you could build a doubler, or at least put together one with a kit.
BowTech99
Well-Known Member
haha, I wont be building the suspension. A shop in south Fla will be. All I will do is pay for parts and labor. Ya'll answered my question pretty well, thanks guys.
I dont mind spending the extra money, Its gonna be done right the first time. Thanks crawler, I'll call up atlas Tues and talk to em.
I dont mind spending the extra money, Its gonna be done right the first time. Thanks crawler, I'll call up atlas Tues and talk to em.
RoidedRanger
Well-Known Member
i know this is an old post but im curious as to wat rout e ur taking and wat shop down here ur going with.
ima be putting RWs under my ranger. but im ahav to with 50" tires and a decent built 460 with some spray. for cases after seeing the benifits of the SCS/profab type cases they r perfect for these kinda rigs. specially when u dont hav any idea wat kinda gear ull need. the gear ratio of an SCS/profab cases is unreal. they go from like 1:1 all the way down to like 6 or 7:1. ima be putting eith oen of those cases in mine whenever i get lucky and find one for around 1500 bux.
ima be putting RWs under my ranger. but im ahav to with 50" tires and a decent built 460 with some spray. for cases after seeing the benifits of the SCS/profab type cases they r perfect for these kinda rigs. specially when u dont hav any idea wat kinda gear ull need. the gear ratio of an SCS/profab cases is unreal. they go from like 1:1 all the way down to like 6 or 7:1. ima be putting eith oen of those cases in mine whenever i get lucky and find one for around 1500 bux.
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