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Reverse Light Switch


cmcolfax

Member
Firefighter
EMT / Paramedic
GMRS Radio License
Joined
Sep 19, 2025
Messages
16
Age
54
City
Williamsburg
State - Country
VA - USA
Other
2007 Volkawagen MK5 Rabbit 2.5
Vehicle Year
2011
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
4WD
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
None yet ;-)
Tire Size
265/75/16
My credo
Facta Non Verba
2011 4.0 SOHC 5MT 4WD 4-door

Has anyone replaced the reverse light switch?

Any tips, tricks, or ideas on how to make it easier to do (other than drop the transmission)?

Everything I read says it's on the top right of the transmission. And that it's a PITA to get at, especially on a 4WD. Which I believe because I can't even see/find the damn thing.

Backstory:

The reverse lights in my taillights don't work.

The PO bolted some cheap lights to the bottom of the bumper and "hard wired" them to a switch under the dash. By "hard wired" I mean direct off battery power. Not even switched, ignition on power.

Judging from the amount of rust on said lights they have been there for a while.

My guess is the non-Ford dealership I bought it from slapped a sticker on and called it good. They didn't care, if they even checked.

It's due for inspection this month and won't pass, in my state the rule on backup lights is if they are there they have to work. Since they are integrated into the taillights they are there and therefore are supposed to work when the transmission is put in reverse.

Yes, I have replaced the bulbs. Yes, I have probed the connectors with a multimeter. I've got no power to the connectors. Which leads me to the switch.
 
Sounds like ypu need to drop the transmission. No. I haven't done it.

In my mind, the issue is that if you can't see or touch it, you definitely can't replace it. That is a place where grease, grime, dirt, etc. Would collect. So you woild also want to clean the area thoroughly before removing anything tjay would temporarily open a hole onto your transmission. You don't want any dirty, gritty crap falling in and contaminating your transmission fluid. I would try with every effort available to disconnect the connector from the switch and troubleshoot at that connection before dropping the trans.
 
Sounds like ypu need to drop the transmission. No. I haven't done it.

In my mind, the issue is that if you can't see or touch it, you definitely can't replace it. That is a place where grease, grime, dirt, etc. Would collect. So you woild also want to clean the area thoroughly before removing anything tjay would temporarily open a hole onto your transmission. You don't want any dirty, gritty crap falling in and contaminating your transmission fluid. I would try with every effort available to disconnect the connector from the switch and troubleshoot at that connection before dropping the trans.
I appreciate it.

I'm new to TRS, but not new to wrenching on my junk.
I just haven't gotten around to making an "Introduction" post yet.

I do NOT want to drop the transmission! That's just opening a Pandora's Box of things that can go wrong!

That's why I am looking for guidance on getting at the switch and connector without doing so!

I've been lurking for a while and this organization/forum is OUTSTANDING.
 
the switch is on the driver side, upper.
the circuit then goes thru a connector on/at the frame before heading to the rear.
Thanks.

Lemme bounce this off of you:

Can it be accessed from the TOP?

I currently have the entire interior yanked out of the truck so removing the transmission cover is literally four bolts...
 

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from the top? maybe. worth a look.
it's the red thingie in this pic.
View attachment 134028
Hmmmm...

It certainly can't hurt to pull the cover and see!

Unfortunately it will be next week before I can get to it thanks to work, life, and more work... 🙄
 
Hell, I ended up pulling the entire interior out today thanks to "project creep"!

We all know how THAT goes...
 
@pjtoledo For real... It started as what should have been a simple head unit swap...
 
@pjtoledo For real... It started as what should have been a simple head unit swap...
head unit eh? then you will certainly want to re-wire the speaker wires going thru that large square connector. right??
you're doing great, will fit in here just fine,,,,,:icon_thumby:
 
My projects don't even creep. They expand thunderously with great fanfare, weeping and gnashing of teeth. At this point, you could measure and cut an access hole if necessary. I would be very tempted.
 
head unit eh? then you will certainly want to re-wire the speaker wires going thru that large square connector. right??
you're doing great, will fit in here just fine,,,,,:icon_thumby:
Thanks.

I think. 👀


I don't want to hijack my own thread but...

I spent an hour on Sunday neatly solder splicing and heat shrinking all the connectors from the radio plug to the truck adapter plug

And when I pulled the factory radio I found a mess of cut wires , tape , and twisted splices.
Not even scotch taps!

PO was a kid and must have CUT the factory harness to put in an aftermarket head unit
Instead of buying the fucking $15 adapter
Then swapped the OE radio back in when he traded it in.


head unit eh? then you will certainly want to re-wire the speaker wires going thru that large square connector. right??
you're doing great, will fit in here just fine,,,,,:icon_thumby:
 

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on my 2wd the switch is accessible from underneath.
my 4wd is an auto so I don't know for sure if the driveshaft is in the way.
 
My projects don't even creep. They expand thunderously with great fanfare, weeping and gnashing of teeth. At this point, you could measure and cut an access hole if necessary. I would be very tempted.
Don't tempt me.

I'mma try to get at the connector first, and put a multimeter on it...
 

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