Replace batt cable, or fix?

[Uncle Gump]

Quality copper wire is expensive these days.

I use to make a bunch of battery cables for a fleet of dump trucks/loaders/wood chippers... and even custom cables at my dune buggies shop.

I always used the solder on lugs and would buy welding cable. It wasn't cheap years ago... probably even more now. Here is a very similar end an solder nugget to what we used.

Then of course you need heat shrink... but they were great cables.

Not user friendly for an in vehicle repair... just used them on new cable builds.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

That was exactly what I was talking about, having someone thats a member produce better cables resulting in a Big 3 (or 4/5) upgrade we could all buy for a decent price compared to some of those offered online.
I hoped a few standard length basic upgraded cables per model could work for almost every Ranger generation, then individuals could do their additional upgrades as apply for individual circuits like sound systems/winches etc.
Gotta be some source for better pre-made Big 3/4/5 upgrades at a more reasonable rate then what I'm seeing on the web so far...
Ram50Ron

I Thought I saw a kit on fleabay, but it was cheapo looking (and written)...but yes a quality swap in kit would be awesome, I'd buy one.

 

[dvdswan]

I’m a half way decent solderer. I soldered a lug on a 4awg wire twice (for an amp) and it indeed was a pita. Will have to do some research if I end up dying big solders. A torch comes to mind.

Idon’t really think I have problems past the lug (see pic). I’m just thinking that I’ll lose too much slack to get to good wire.

View attachment 71007

If you look at the cable before it goes into the clamp, you can see that it is corroded. You can see a slight bulge in the insulation, about 1/2"-3/4" long on the cable. This tells you that corrosion goes back at least that far. You would need to cut the cable, I would suggest about 1" past that, then strip and verify that there is no more corrosion on the cable. Both ends of the cable would need to be inspected.

Any corrosion on the cable degrades its ability to allow the flow of voltage/amps and raises resistance. The older the cable is the further the corrosion will travel through the cable.

 

[4x4prepper]

I used my cable swagging tool (up to 3/16) for ferrules to crush battery terminals. But, I am going to repair the cable on my 1985 (OEM cable still looks good) after my ghetto booty fab 3" body lift AND I need to repair the cables on my neighbor' s 2001 F-150 with those funky lousy battery terminals. SO, I bought this:

Klutch 10-Ton Hydraulic Cable Crimper

Klutch 10-Ton Hydraulic Cable Crimper | Northern Tool

The powerful Klutch® 10-Ton Hydraulic Cable Crimper allows you to crimp wires and butt connectors much easier than using a pair of...

www.northerntool.com

I am going to use only the finest Chinese made quick disconnect terminals on both trucks:

2Pcs Car Battery Terminal Connector Clamp Quick Release Adjust Disconnect Tool

Car Battery Terminal Connector Clamp Quick Release Adjust Disconnect Tool | eBay

It is suitable for circular column car battery SAE/JIS A column. Custom Bundle: No.

www.ebay.com

I use Duracell marine deep cycle batteries and hook up my winch directly to the battery posts, so, I am not worried about over powering the cheap terminals. Unlike the guy on Amazon that gave them a 1 star rating because they melted when put into his big Dodge diesel (duh).

 

[dvdswan]

That's pretty much how I built my battery cables for my Nissan.

I have the HF version hydraulic crimper but didn't pay the 70 they're asking for. Used 0/1 wire and terminal ends with heat shrink.