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Removing the coil spring bolt


mp3deviant721

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2009
Messages
2,315
City
Eau Claire, WI
Vehicle Year
1995
Transmission
Manual
How does it come out, does it just tap out or do you have to heat it to drop it? Because if it does just tap out I might get some washers and bolts to level out my truck out this or next week.
 
Im not sure how the bolt comes out since i just used a extension but my advice to you, spray some pb blaster on the nut that holds the coil spring in a few days in advance.
 
Im not sure how the bolt comes out since i just used a extension but my advice to you, spray some pb blaster on the nut that holds the coil spring in a few days in advance.

I've been doing that for a few days now so that replacing my coil springs won't be so hard. I was wondering about the coil spring bolt though because I'm thinking about putting in the washers at the same time.
 
It takes a 11/8 inch wrench you can use a socket from the top but either way you need to raise and lower the hub with a jack to make it work.When you put washers in don't forget 1" gets you close to 2".Be careful or you will taking it apart again and pulling out washers to get you tires straight enough.
 
I've pulled coil bolts from 3 ttb's and 1 tib, all had blue locktite from the factory. Heat would make it easier to remove, though on three I used a snipe on a 1/2" breaker bar [no heat]. It's a work out!
Richard
 
I've pulled coil bolts from 3 ttb's and 1 tib, all had blue locktite from the factory. Heat would make it easier to remove, though on three I used a snipe on a 1/2" breaker bar [no heat]. It's a work out!
Richard

So I can take it out with a breaker bar then? I might try that.
 
you know the size or diameter for the bolts on a 1995 2wd. cause im looking forward to level out my front end with the washers as well.
 
All the bolts I've taken out have been 1 1/8". That's on three 4x4 '87-'91 rbv, and one 4x4 f-150 [unknown year] and one 2wd '88 f-150. Yours may be different but I doubt it.

Richard
 
heres some pics from my build thread, which show how i did my set up

following railman's advice, i ground down the paint on the stop and welded on a gusset to make sure that in the event of a latch failure the tire wont swing into the side of my bed and bend it all to hell.

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after letting the welds cool off i gave it a quick wipe down and put the second coat of paint on.

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with the paint drying i shifted my focus to leveling the front end, which went fairly quickly but also pointed out a need for longer brake hoses. as long as i dont allow the front end to go into full droop ill be ok, but this is something that will hopefully be remedied in the next couple of days. i ordered a pair of grade 8 3/4" x 10" bolts to replace the original 8" long ones. i know they make stud extenders to achieve the same effect, but this seems like an area that i dont want any room for error.

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using all of my 1/2 impact extensions i was able to easily remove the spring retaining nut by going through the coil spring from the engine bay.

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i measured the springs just for future reference, they are skyjacker 132s

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after i got all my tools put away i took thumper for a test drive to help settle the front end. i think i nailed the look i was going for and the fact that theres still some rake to it tells me that i wont need to put longer shackles on the rear after mounting the bumper.

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and heres where i did the extended hoses a few pages later in my thread

ive been trying to take advantage of these last few warm days of november and get everything on my truck ready before the snow comes and makes working on thumper even harder (i dont have enough fire wood gathered up for the wood stove in the garage). i used yesterday to put on my extended brake hoses and change out my coils springs to some Moog HD progressive coil springs. the skyjackers were flexy, but with out a sway bar on the truck they were a little too flexy. The moogs provide a nice stable ride without being too stiff. The next thing i need to do is check the clearance of the bump stop at full stuff and then build a drop bracket or possibly get a longer pair of energy suspension bumpstops.

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heres the skyjacker leveling coil (black), next to the Moog HD progressive coil (blue)

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with the OE hoses i wasnt able to let the suspension droop all the way without the hose getting too tight. The original 2wd brake hoses are 19" long and the ones i relaced them with are 24" -4 AN stainless steel lines with a female straight at one end and a female 90 at the other coupled to a -4 AN to 3/8" banjo fitting on the caliper side and a -4 AN to 3/16 double flare fitting on the coil bucket side.

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my dad also went out to the blind again and brought home another buck! i can already smell the venison jerky!

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thanks for the info man.. really useful, hopefully ill be able to do this in this month but not till later on since i have to pay college tuition and its a lot. bummer i know.
 

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