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Removing bad AT... but flexplate rotates freely. Why?


In my professional opinion that is broke.

It’s a month later and I finally got it all put back together. Last night I was going to take it for a spin for the first time since the flex plate failed.

Got her started fine. Shifted into R and nothing happened. Shifted into D, still nothing happened. On the dash the O/D light is flashing, as well as the ABS light. It’s not giving me any codes, but I’ve had the battery disconnected for awhile now.

The shift cable is connected... is there a way to connect it incorrectly? I also have an extra plug that I can’t find anything to plug into. Its the very last plug on the harness. I will attach a pic of the plug.
 

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Wow....the......shit I take for granted.



Well...you may have murdered the pump if you didn't install the tq converter correctly..... Or the pump was murdered when the flexplate failed and converter traveled out of centric and went elipse.

I always inspect pump and converter, and converter hub drive and pump when this happens. Sometimes the pump gear cracks.


Surprised that was not the standard approach.
 
If this was you first automatic trans install then you may have broken the pump inside transmission

Google: how to seat torque converter

2min video that shows how you MUST seat torque converter inside the bellhousing first and keep it in all the way when installing the transmission
Same on all automatics, not a Ford thing

The bell housing should go flush against the engine block, if you had to tighten bolts to FORCE them together that would have broken the pump

You can check dipstick level engine OFF
Then check it engine ON
If pump is working the level will DROP down, if it doesn't then pump is broken
Broken pump means no forward or reverse and full rebuild to replace it

Did this on my first automatic install 40 years ago, expensive lesson you never forget, and mine was even a fresh rebuilt transmission, had to rebuild again but just with new pump
 
If this was you first automatic trans install then you may have broken the pump inside transmission

Google: how to seat torque converter

2min video that shows how you MUST seat torque converter inside the bellhousing first and keep it in all the way when installing the transmission
Same on all automatics, not a Ford thing

The bell housing should go flush against the engine block, if you had to tighten bolts to FORCE them together that would have broken the pump

You can check dipstick level engine OFF
Then check it engine ON
If pump is working the level will DROP down, if it doesn't then pump is broken
Broken pump means no forward or reverse and full rebuild to replace it

Thanks, I will go try that now.

I am familiar with the issue of TC being seated properly, as I swapped out my engine about a year ago. I was careful to not let the TC slide forward when I removed the tranny and when I reinstalled it, I was able to mate the tranny with the engine tightly before I bolted it.

I’m crossing my fingers...
 
If the flex plate is broken around the crankshaft bolts, there is no need to remove the torque converter bolts.

Pic for an example.
C78BD6E6-7555-405E-A3F9-C819B0170EFC.jpeg
 
I did as you suggested and bought a new spacer when I bought the flexplate... only $16 from Amazon, Rockauto didn't have that part listed anywhere. I went ahead and bought a new exhaust manifold and Y pipe set, since I ended up cutting the old crap to get it out.
I'm in a very similar position. Sadly i didn't find that $16 spacer on amazon but, it did make me curious, did you reuse the old plate/spacer that was on the outside of the flexplate or buy a new one? The one that came off my old flexplate is too worn to reuse.
 

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Yeah, that's probably the cheapest one I've seen, Thank you! I think I'll also need the little plate that sandwiches the flex plate and the spacer but that should be easy.
 
Yeah, that's probably the cheapest one I've seen, Thank you! I think I'll also need the little plate that sandwiches the flex plate and the spacer but that should be easy.

I changed flexplates like I changed my socks on one truck I had, before I gave up and converted it to manual.

Some flexplates had the washer you describe welded to the flexplate, other replacements did not have the washer reinforcement at all. From your pics, it looks like the failed plate had the welded washer. I'm not even sure that you can get just the washer, but if you find one, great.

When you reinstall the trans, make sure that the hollow dowels between the motor and trans are at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock bellhousing positions; these properly locate the trans to the motor.
 

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