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RELOCATING IGNITION MODULE


gaz

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Sep 21, 2007
Messages
1,731
City
Wa, Bremerton 98310
Vehicle Year
1987
Total Lift
Ranger 5" (1½" Hiryder/3" body), BII 4" Procomp
Total Drop
Ranger 5sp, BII A4LD
Tire Size
Ranger 32"/4:10LS, BII 33"/3:73LS
My credo
Deengineer until it is how Blue Oval should have sold it!!
Hello,

I bought an ignition module heatsink from the wrecking Yard out of a 93 Aerostar. I want to use it in the 87 Ranger, 2.9L.

I was thinking it couldn't be cooler than in the air box (below the filter). Any thoughts on this new location for my ignition module?
 
As long as you make sure that spot doesn't get wet...

Ford and Chrysler both had problems when mounting computer parts in "cool" areas only to find out they ended up getting wet and rotting quickly. (F-150 fuel pump driver modules, and powerstroke glow plug modules are a grand example).
 
It will warm up the air going into engine so reduce power, not much but not 0 either

Rad support was most common location, the lower the better to avoid engine heat when its stopped and/or shut off
On the 4.0ls Ford mounted the EDIS spark module on the FRONT side of rad support, but harder to access there
 
I put mine on the passenger side fender, close to the firewall. Works beautifully. Honestly, I don't think I even drilled a hole for it. Don't quote me on that one, though!
 
Nez,

Did you extend the 6 wires that plug into the end of the ignition module or unwrap the bundle and move them?
 
Nez,

Did you extend the 6 wires that plug into the end of the ignition module or unwrap the bundle and move them?
I unwrapped it and isolated it from whatever else was with it. If you do that, it reaches over to the fender perfectly. I rewrapped it with some new conduit/plastic shielding. Can't even tell I altered it.
 
The hardest part was making that dummy module to jump the 3 prongs from the ignition module to the hall effect sensor in the distributor. I gutted a junkyard module and jumped the three with a little soldering, and then used another factory harness to get the 3 shielded wires with a factory plug to connect to the dummy and jump to the new module's location.
 
You re-wrapped the tin foil around the wires correct? The SPOUT and some of the other signals are susceptible to noise and the factory had the tin foil as a shield.
 
Nez,

Ah, I'm still on the fence wether to unwrap or to extend them.

I am leaning towards the blank-off plate/wire-spade job to the hall sensor, I've never appreciated the ignition module sticking out back there; when at Max vacuum advance it is really gets in the way.
 
I hear ya, I would've done the plate thing, but didn't have the tools to make that happen.
 

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