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rear upper shock pins/studs?


Denisefwd93

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 20, 2015
Messages
2,261
City
South East PA
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
Tire Size
235
Anyone have these twist off when doing rear shocks??? Asking because a front lower shock pin twisted off on this rust bucket I have and why I've waited so long to get new shocks. lol

And, I have to get things ready BEFORE my help shows up. :mad:

Tools on hand for the deed .. nut splitter, impact wrench, cut off wheels, 6 point sockets also.
 
i usually make custom mounts out back and remove the frame killer mounts.



they sell a stud for the front, i tend to keep them handy.


any parts store help section

https://www.ebay.com/p/Shock-Mounting-Kit-Dorman-31001/112790587?iid=151455510267&chn=ps



$_35.JPG
 
Used that on the front. Where you do the new mounts? I'm really trying to avoid fabrication if we can get the nuts off of those old mounts.
1b9ad2cfb95a873e91dcbae19a42cb9f.jpg
 
Not much happening today, it was OMG too much with my brand new Harbor Freight impact wrench! (The thing works too! ) I don't know why mechanics make them so damn tight all the time and I know who did this. when I had the front wheel alignment done they put the front wheels on the back ARG!..

The rear bump stops have only about 2" just to give you an idea how bad my Springs are...

the upper shock mount nuts are locked solid . I'm going to let him soak with pb overnight the good thing is they're accessible for the nut splitter I just don't know what size thread they are, looks like about a half inch or some metric size 16, 17 mm nut size
 
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M 12 x 1.75 be like seem like???
 
I thought I posted earlier but don't see it. Use oxy acetylene and heat the nut cherry red. Remove the nut and dress the thread with a die or thread file.
 
I definitely mentioned earlier not with gasoline Vapors wafting about. But yes heat does work very well but I'm not about to take a chance on blowing up! Nut splitter works very well very well,
I thought I posted earlier but don't see it. Use oxy acetylene and heat the nut cherry red. Remove the nut and dress the thread with a die or thread file.
 
Oh well this project is going to have to wait a few more days I'm going to have to hunt down some new hardware,
 
Shocks are in the Rancho Shocks were very questionable they have resistance but they do not return to full length on their own like the new ones. Add a leaf is on its way still haven't done the broken right forward spring mount, hanging on by a prayer.

we'll take it for a test ride, I don't expect the shake & bounce on the right rear to disappear. Probably should look and see if I have a bent right rear axle or something more mysterious,
 
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WOW! AMAZING WHAT 4 NEW SHOCK ABSORBERS CAN DO!! These are FSC make from RockAuto OEM equivalent I'm happy!

The shake /bounce is still there it's at a higher speed now I doubt the new spring Mount is going to make a difference so like every vehicle I have ever had in my life I've got a shaky rear end [emoji56] the truck's rear, not mine!
 
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I've been partial to Diablo saw blades for wood boat building for a few years I picked up these in anticipation of cutting the shock absorber shafts and other things on the truck they worked great on the front shocks. "Diablo 6 inch metal demolition" Sawzall blade
4207168da743a505258d02a283db714c.jpg
 
i use those and the irwins


on the back...i thought i posted to use a piece of 3/16 or 1/4 in 2x5 rectangle and the stud mentioned out back verse the pos frame killer mounts.


but i would rather go to outside the frame rail for shocks as well.
 
For now the rusty shock mounts are okay I can see them being replaced in the future or something like you're talking Bobby, but it's been a great improvement with the new shocks! still lots of work to do, I don't like being a begger in all this, I used have the money to do these things lol
 
were they plugged with mud/debris?



keep them cleaned out and fluid filmed or whatever you want to treat them with. they rot the frame right out.
 
didn't check, I assume they probably are, I saw a video last night where a someone drills holes in the bottom of new ones which makes a lot of sense.
 

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