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Rear Frame Rust


dmt

Active Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2008
Messages
33
City
PA
Vehicle Year
2004
Transmission
Automatic
Hi Guys.

I picked up a 95 XL 2WD with 122K miles that has the "Ranger Lean". I plan on replacing the shocks and was thinking about having my leafs redone. Well I slid under the truck today and the leaf sping hangers are shot - no suprise. The real kicker is the rear frame rail. Both sides are rusted from about 18" back to the end. Does anyone make a replacement framerail piece or do they need to be cut from a donor truck? I don't know how they even passed state inspection last time.
Thanks
 
Zman had a beater that he was working on a few years ago that had the same problem. I can't remember exactly what he used to fix it, but he did a good job in doing so. He'd be the guy to ask.
 
I would just cut out the rust, and weld in some good heavy 3/16 metal in there. Is it where the shackle mount is?
 
I would just cut out the rust, and weld in some good heavy 3/16 metal in there. Is it where the shackle mount is?

The shackle mount area may still be usable. I checked the pass. side and I don'think that needs to be replaced, just the driver side.

I'm so used to working on old Mustangs where I can just purchase frame rail parts. Figured I would see if they made them for Rangers. I would still prefer to find a donor vehicle and take a couple of feet form it.
 
My only concern with replacing the frame rails from a donor would be making sure they are structurally sound. I think it would take a lot of gusseting and a lot of extra work. I still think it would be better to fab up your own, less work, more strength.
 
Never heard of replacing the frame rails...but I'm kinda new to that...I've seen shortened frames for off-road buggies, but they usually use steel tubes to build an ecko-structure...

The real question (and pics would help anyone who knows how to help you) is...

How badly rusted are they?

Mine had just a smidgen of rust right at the end of the rail, but it wasn't affecting anything other than my piece of mind...if they are rusted right through you may be able to patch them...but if the section is supporting the shackle bracket I'd say it would need to be done very carefully by a pro...if you're not one yourself...
 
The shackle mount area may still be usable. I checked the pass. side and I don'think that needs to be replaced, just the driver side.

I'm so used to working on old Mustangs where I can just purchase frame rail parts. Figured I would see if they made them for Rangers. I would still prefer to find a donor vehicle and take a couple of feet form it.

Again, send Zman a private message and ask him about it. He ACTUALLY repaired the frame on a winter beater he bought so he would be the person to ask.

Here is a link to his profile:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/member.php?u=38

The kid is talented to say the least. He is by far the best person to ask on this.
 
Here are some pics

RangerFrame.jpg

RangerFrame1.jpg
 
that needs replaced asap hanger and all
 
Again, send Zman a private message and ask him about it. He ACTUALLY repaired the frame on a winter beater he bought so he would be the person to ask.

Here is a link to his profile:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/member.php?u=38

The kid is talented to say the least. He is by far the best person to ask on this.

ha wow I can't believe someone actually remembers that...thanks

anyway, responding to your pm dmt...heres some pictures of what I did. Its just some 3/16" channel that I had laying around that was the same size as the frame rail. I also replace the rear crossmember with a piece of 3x3" I bought off the scrap pile at the local steel supplier, but 2x4" fits perfectly (did that on another truck).

The rust..


with the channel clamped in place..


I capped the end of it before I put the crossmember in..


Also reinforced where I welded to the frame..


making the crossmember..


everything welded together and undercoated..


Keep in mind too, the way I did it didn't allow me to use the rear 2 bolts in the bed.
 
Thanks Zman. Very nice work. That was a great idea making your own hitch.

Did you buy new leaf springs or did you have yours redone?

As far as taking off the bed. Can two guys do this or is it too heavy? And is the gas tank attached to the bed and the frame or just one of the two?

Thanks
 
Thanks Zman. Very nice work. That was a great idea making your own hitch.

Did you buy new leaf springs or did you have yours redone?

As far as taking off the bed. Can two guys do this or is it too heavy? And is the gas tank attached to the bed and the frame or just one of the two?

Thanks

I had to cut both of the spring-eye bolts off because they were rusted into the bushing on each end of the passenger spring. So what I did was burn the old bushings out and replace them, and bought new bolts from ford (grade 8 9/16" from the hardware store are way cheaper btw :icon_idea: )

2 guys can take the bed off no problem. As far as the fuel tank goes, just open up your gas door, take off the cap, and take the 3 small bolts out that attach the filler hose to the bed.
 
Zman did a good patch job his famous cursed B*tch truck.

I would plate up past the hangers on yours as the frame looks iffy at best. Check near the tank at the curve in the frame they tend to rust bad there also.
 
zman - was that the 1st gen truck you had or was it something else?
 
I would plate up past the hangers on yours as the frame looks iffy at best. Check near the tank at the curve in the frame they tend to rust bad there also.


Nice call. Questionalble there. I found a local place on Craigslist that advertises parting out Rangers. I'll call them tomorrow.
:icon_welder:
 

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