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rear end ???


one more question.what dose takeing the front swaybar off get you. is it worth it to do it ???

In PA, a failed state inspection.

On the trails it allows for more flex. If you really want to go that way and not get hassled at SI time, get some quick disconnects. I don't know about other guys, but I'd pass them as long as they were hooked up when I saw it.
 
if you completely remove all remnants of the sway bar you shouldnt fail inspection.

of course..pa is its own.


man, that brings painful memories of how slow a ranger can be.




theres many reasons its spinning like that. but it wont spin like that without the brakes on for very far.



go to a empty lot and turn in a tight circle in both directions and see if they stay spooled while spinning..


a craked spider will do that but usually explode shortly after.
 
Well the thing is, with the configuration of the 1st gen sway bars that he would have, I'm not sure how much benefit there would be to it.

I'm willing to bet no body would notice at SI since the rear bar was an option, so one not being there isn't automatically suspicious, and he front one is harder to see than a piston in an assembled engine.
 
ok i was told i will do noting but snap axles if i weld the front diff. is that true im not going to beat it i just like the thought of haveing all 4 wheels turning in 4 wheeldrive .and i want to get a 8.8 diff asap but dont know how fast that will be so. i dont want to weld it if it will be that bad on the axles.
 
The D-28 will not like being welded up. And frankly, after running for years and years with two open diffs, I personally see no need to lock, LS, or weld the front end.
 
The D-28 will not like being welded up. And frankly, after running for years and years with two open diffs, I personally see no need to lock, LS, or weld the front end.

it really does depend on what your getting into. i feel its best to have it and not use it then to need one and not have it.
 
It bothers me when GM calls the G80 a locking differential when it is only a limited slip that tightens the clutch plates when there is a 100rpm difference causing fly weights to press on a lever which turns a ramped plate that applies more pressure onto the clutches. Two friends blew them out of their trucks (S10 blazer and GMC 1500).

You can weld the front, but it will bind if you even lock the hubs and are in 2wd on the road. It makes tight turns on dirt hard and turns on snow or slick mud almost impossible. I would for sure lock the rear though.
 
ok good idea or bad to weld front diff need more help lol
 
It is mostly a matter of opinion, but my two cents is that if the truck will ever be on the road, don't weld the front diff, and don't weld a D-28 at all.
 
ok good idea or bad to weld front diff need more help lol

What more do you need? What specifically will you be doing with the truck?

Once you weld the front differential there is NO way the front tires will turn at a different speed when the hubs are locked. So, if you plan on driving it in the winter with the hubs locked (even in 2wd high) every time you turn you put a tremendous amount of stress on your front axle shafts and joints. Unlike the rear, you have all the weight of the engine and most of the transmission on your front tires making binding a lot harder. You might encounter steering problems on pavement (understeer). If you try to turn in the snow, chances are the truck will push straight.

If the truck is a trail rig, then welding the front diff will get you through a lot more at a greater risk of parts breaking. If you are going through mud or hill climbing it will get you through a lot more than an open differential.

You need to be honest with your goals. If you never need 4wd on the road, you can weld the front and simply keep the hubs unlocked until you reach your trail. If you drive the truck all the time and do need 4wd on pavement (say winter) then I would suggest AGAINST it. If this is your only vehicle and you can't afford to have it broken down then don't do it. If this is is a dedicated off road rig then all you have to lose is the potential of failure.
 
Like gofast said, it will have horrible road manners. I see you have a sticker on your windshield in the new pic, so I assume you still drive this thing on the road.

If you drive it on the road at all, don't weld it.
 
ok thanks alot thats what i wanted to know i will just go get a 8.8 d-35 and lock them
 
I think you'll be more satisfied with the results of an auto locker or selectable locker. I have a powertrax no-slip in my Ranger (that I drive every day) and I have no complaints.
 

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