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realy rough idle


Not that i can recall...they either screw on right or not at all...unless you cross thread them...then they are pooched and you need to get another oil filter...you could probably drain and flush the old one if you have to drive to get a new oil filter...and you don't have to drop the oil again just to change the filter so you won't loose much on that effort...

Am talking bout fuel filter.
 
Ah, oh, sorry!~ That does make a difference...:)

You mean the one on the rail? My 2.9 had one but it was just clipped onto the lines so I have no idea...again...out of my league...
 
Ah, oh, sorry!~ That does make a difference...:)

You mean the one on the rail? My 2.9 had one but it was just clipped onto the lines so I have no idea...again...out of my league...

No I know what your talking about thought my 88 2.9 has the inline one. But this one is an 86 and just has the one that is in a black canister under drivers door its a cartridge type filter. I can't get it screwed back together.
 
I put the new filter in I got it back on and I can't really tell a difference yet. I got a question on the timing though. It doesn't matter where I put it it will run and idle up a little with advance it but shouldn't it idle up pretty high it you advance it far enough? Cause it won't.
 
I think, on mine anyway, you can only advance it so far (if you are advancing it via the distributor rotation) before it either dies or starts running rough because you are no where near the TDC any more and you are firing on the down stroke of the piston...

I guess maybe you could clarify just how you are advancing it though...there is a cam timing gear that you can buy that will allow you to advance or retard the cam timing so you can actually put more grunt at the low end or high end...
 
I think, on mine anyway, you can only advance it so far (if you are advancing it via the distributor rotation) before it either dies or starts running rough because you are no where near the TDC any more and you are firing on the down stroke of the piston...

I guess maybe you could clarify just how you are advancing it though...there is a cam timing gear that you can buy that will allow you to advance or retard the cam timing so you can actually put more grunt at the low end or high end...

Yes am advancing it by just turning it. But it still sounds like a low idle and it doesnt seem to have the right power. It also knocks in the valve cover. Only thing I can suspect is weak fuel pump how do you check both of them?
 
A vacuum gauge can test fuel pressure...and they are fairly inexpensive...but I've only tested mine directly at the pump since the pump is actually under the hood and I can access it really easy...with two pumps you need to undo the line somewhere but I would only know that directly at the fuel filter or just before for the high pressure pump and maybe just before the high pressure pump to read the low pressure in the tank...
 
A vacuum gauge can test fuel pressure...and they are fairly inexpensive...but I've only tested mine directly at the pump since the pump is actually under the hood and I can access it really easy...with two pumps you need to undo the line somewhere but I would only know that directly at the fuel filter or just before for the high pressure pump and maybe just before the high pressure pump to read the low pressure in the tank...

Ok first I think am going to go back and double check everything like timing make sure its getting spark. And can a weak fuel pump cause it not to idle up? Also could the pump cause it to knock in the head? I just got this head rebuilt do idk if I need to take it back or what.
 
A number of things can cause the engine to not idle up including low fuel pressure, timing, vac leak, or sensors that are not connected/working properly...could also be your throttle cable is either too slack or there is something wrong with the way it connects...but that would be too obvious...

If nothing else has changed and it has not worked since you put it back together you might also want to unplug the battery for about 20 minutes to try to reset the computer...it might have set itself for the old head specs (air/fuel mixtures and O2 sensor levels) and simply needs to be adjusted to where the new head is at...
 
A number of things can cause the engine to not idle up including low fuel pressure, timing, vac leak, or sensors that are not connected/working properly...could also be your throttle cable is either too slack or there is something wrong with the way it connects...but that would be too obvious...

If nothing else has changed and it has not worked since you put it back together you might also want to unplug the battery for about 20 minutes to try to reset the computer...it might have set itself for the old head specs (air/fuel mixtures and O2 sensor levels) and simply needs to be adjusted to where the new head is at...

I had the battery unplugged the whole time when I put head back on. Am thinking its one of the fuel pumps. What could cause the knocking in the head?
 
Not sure...depends on the knock...I've never actually had one knock...I've had them rattle themselves silly caused by not enough oil getting up to them

From another thread the knock could be a piston rod or bearing...someone suggested unplug the plug wires one by one if you can get it running and if the knock goes away then it is bottom end...you've developed another issue that needs attention...
I think it was RonD that suggested that and it makes sense...the power stroke puts pressure on the rod and bearings that are not otherwise present in the compression, intake, or exhaust strokes

If your knock is an actual explosion like sound then it could also be an exhaust leak...check to make sure the EGR pipe is connected or blocked off and then check the bolts on the exhaust manifold to make sure they are tight.
 
Not sure...depends on the knock...I've never actually had one knock...I've had them rattle themselves silly caused by not enough oil getting up to them

From another thread the knock could be a piston rod or bearing...someone suggested unplug the plug wires one by one if you can get it running and if the knock goes away then it is bottom end...you've developed another issue that needs attention...
I think it was RonD that suggested that and it makes sense...the power stroke puts pressure on the rod and bearings that are not otherwise present in the compression, intake, or exhaust strokes

If your knock is an actual explosion like sound then it could also be an exhaust leak...check to make sure the EGR pipe is connected or blocked off and then check the bolts on the exhaust manifold to make sure they are tight.

I'll try that but its coming from under valve cover so its on top of motor and its not a knock more like a pinging I guess. And it won't happen at idle only if you rev it up high or put a load on it while driving like flooring it.
 
Well, pinging and knocking are a bit of a difference. It might be your timing is still a bit out...or if your fuel pressure isn't high enough your engine is leaning out and you need to fix that asap...

I found this so maybe it can help you identify your issue...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JA0cH_vRABg
 
Well, pinging and knocking are a bit of a difference. It might be your timing is still a bit out...or if your fuel pressure isn't high enough your engine is leaning out and you need to fix that asap...

I found this so maybe it can help you identify your issue...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JA0cH_vRABg

Yea it sounds pretty close to that. If you turn advance or retard the timing it makes the pinging worst or better when you rev it up. Could the fuel pump be weak causing it to get wrong mixture?
 
Could be...only one way to find out...actually, you might be able to pull some codes and find there is a lean condition being thrown...if you're so inclined...I don't have a clue about the how to on that but there is a sticky in the Tech Library IIRC...worth a shot!
 

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