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Radiator leaking. Is there a fix?


buckshotmudder

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2012
Messages
51
City
Tarheel state.
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Manual
My radiator has a pinhole leak. Has anyone ever tried to fix a pinhole leak? I'd hate to buy another as this is the second radiator. The original radiator lasted 16 yrs before it started leaking just a few inches below where this one is currently leaking, right next to the inflow. I don't have the funds right now for another replacement. Anyone have a better idea than buying another new replacement radiator? FWIW, the temp gauge never goes above the letter A in normal. I am tired of refilling the overflow tank.
 

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Can you get a soldiering iron in there? You might be able to solder it up.

Changing the coolant every few years should help prevent that though.
 
I have used with some success the barrs stop leak, the rabbit turd looking stuff in a bottle. Just do not open the heater for flow after putting in according to some. I did and everything still worked fine. Last summer I finally R&Rd a lot so stuff to include the radiator, they are actually fairly inexpensive just shop around. Again they will be from china but finding anything else is just about impossible.
 
Can you get a soldiering iron in there? You might be able to solder it up.

Changing the coolant every few years should help prevent that though.

All I have is a small iron, but I have never messed with aluminum. I guess I will try it. I have fixed two copper radiators in the past. Does anyone make an after market radiator in case my attempt does not work?
 
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I have used with some success the barrs stop leak, the rabbit turd looking stuff in a bottle. Just do not open the heater for flow after putting in according to some. I did and everything still worked fine. Last summer I finally R&Rd a lot so stuff to include the radiator, they are actually fairly inexpensive just shop around. Again they will be from china but finding anything else is just about impossible.

Thanks, but I'm the guy who will never resort to stop-leak. Never had any luck with my derby cars using stop leak.
 
Just don't use acid-core.

Drain the rad, get a good blob on the tip of the iron, and dab it into the hole.

I don't know that it will work, but it's worth a shot.
 
Mine has JB weld on it in about six different places. It works, depending on the location of the leak.
 
Just don't use acid-core.

Drain the rad, get a good blob on the tip of the iron, and dab it into the hole.

I don't know that it will work, but it's worth a shot.

When you say acid core, is that the same as rosin core?
 
No, acid core is the opposite of rosin core.

Acid core has acid in the core and you use it on things like copper pipe because it eats into the metal and bonds stronger. You don't use it on things like copper wire or aluminum because it just eats the metal completely with such small gauge stuff.

Rosin core has rosin flux in the core cleans the metal as it heats and allows for that same stronger bond without the corrosive effects of the acid. That is the stuff you use on wiring repairs.
 
You can also try a small screw and sealant, so make the hole bigger but seal it.

As adsm08 said, if you are using the green 2 year coolant then you are stuck changing it every 2 years or face more leaks.
 
Yeah, I have managed to scavenge myself a bottle of Ford's new dark green, supposedly non-corrosive coolant that is going in my Ranger when I do the 4.0 swap this year. It still breaks down and looses it's freeze protection after about 3 years, but it, allegedly, won't corrode the inside of the block once it starts breaking down.
 
Well thank you for the quick replies and answers everyone. I try soldering it since i found some non resin core solder. If that dont work I'll try the JB stuff.
 

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