Radiator leak at trans cooler connector

[MikeG]

97 4.0 OHV, automatic. Wondering if these connectors are compression, have an o-ring, or something else. Noticed a while back that the overflow tank was empty - but I don't drive it much so didn't think much about it. Drove it about 30 miles yesterday and now there's a steady drip. Lower connection if it matters.

Never had those fittings apart so not sure what to expect? What's the best way to seal it back?

 

[RonD]

Talking about 2 different things here

The trans cooler fittings are compression BUT........those pipes have ATF inside not coolant

If radiator was cut open you would see one of these: https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.c...nsmission-oil-cooler-in-radiator-1024x696.jpg

So coolant surrounds the "cooler" but there is no mixing
ATF flows in and out of the separate internal cooler
If coolant is leaking at, or near, a trans cooler fitting/tube then radiator has cracked or otherwise broken so would need to be replaced

 

[MikeG]

Turns out it wasn't the fitting, but pretty sure the radiator is toast. I let the truck warm up again (since all the coolant had dried off the back of the radiator and it had stopped dripping) and there is a crack in one of the horizontal ribs, just above the trans cooler fitting (and the rib is bulged out at the crack). If you zoom in on the picture it is somewhat visible. So that's why the trans cooler fitting was wet. Looks like it was about to blow!

OK... parts list.... radiator, obviously. And hoses - absolutely no clue how old they are. Might have replaced them years ago.... but not entirely sure. Water pump? Close to 300K miles, seems dumb to not replace it.

Anything else while this is all apart? Worth doing a coolant flush, just to get crap out of the heater core / head / anywhere else? No indications of problems, but......

 

[RonD]

You should swap heater hoses at the firewall every 2 years when you change the coolant, this back flushes the heater core while driving and will help it last longer

I guess if you are doing all that work then a new thermostat(190-195deg) and rad cap would be in order

Remove either heater hose at firewall when refilling, that will let the air out of engine side

 

[MikeG]

I think I'm 21 years behind in swapping the heaters hoses, LOL

Didn't think of the thermostat & cap. Thanks!

 

[MikeG]

Maybe a dumb question, but how do I tell what I have? Ford Parts Giant can't decode the mazda VIN, apparently, and doesn't seem to have radiators, anyway, for Rangers of that era.

Rock Auto lists several. 1 row equivalent? 2 row equivalent? 1 inch core depth? 2.25 inch core depth? I can't find a visible part number on the existing radiator. Did order it with a towing package if that matters.

 

[RonD]

Just get one for a 1997 Ford Ranger 4.0l w/automatic

I will be two row, manuals had 1 row

Tow package won't matter for radiator, but you should have an extra trans cooler in front of radiator down low
It won't effect swapping radiator out