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quality of used tires down?


I mostly run new tires but I prefer internal balancing media and most tire shops don’t want to mess with that. So I have a tire machine and a bucket of media and just do it myself. Technically a tire machine and a half. Me and a buddy went half each on an old Coats 10-10, center post but it’s really only good for 14-17” steel rims. With care you can do aluminum on it. I picked up an old Coats rim clamp machine a couple years ago and it will do up to a 20” rim and a 36” tire. Both machines needed a little maintenance but they work.

I have a Coats 10-10 as well. I've heard that you can break aluminum/mag wheels on it easily but I have yet to do so and I'm not real careful. It just scratches the shit out of everything so we wrapped a bunch of duct tape around the wheel clamp arm. My biggest beef with it is fighting the clamp arm up and over tires so that the bead breaker deal is lined up. I need to buy a rim clamp machine, then I will be unstoppable.
 
I have a Coats 10-10 as well. I've heard that you can break aluminum/mag wheels on it easily but I have yet to do so and I'm not real careful. It just scratches the shit out of everything so we wrapped a bunch of duct tape around the wheel clamp arm. My biggest beef with it is fighting the clamp arm up and over tires so that the bead breaker deal is lined up. I need to buy a rim clamp machine, then I will be unstoppable.
The one old guy I watched made a special thing to put on the clamp arm and the center post for doing aluminum rims without damage. I think I have the video saved on my phone, I’ll have to look it up and see if I can find it again. I was going to build his contraption, it was pretty simple, but I ended up finding a deal on a rim clamp machine and figured the heck with it.
 

Real tempted to buy one of those, supposedly they are pretty good. I'm just not sure where to put it. Outside is not really ideal, my shop is packed unless I kick a vehicle out (then my driveway will be packed.) Shed is too full, I need to get rid of some stuff in there. I also want to get a brake lathe but am running into the same problem. I think I would rather have a tire machine if I had to pick between those two.
 

Real tempted to buy one of those, supposedly they are pretty good. I'm just not sure where to put it. Outside is not really ideal, my shop is packed unless I kick a vehicle out (then my driveway will be packed.) Shed is too full, I need to get rid of some stuff in there. I also want to get a brake lathe but am running into the same problem. I think I would rather have a tire machine if I had to pick between those two.
I was looking at one of those when I found my rim clamp machine for a few hundred. It had an air leak which I’ve mostly resolved with new o-rings in a valve and some adjustments. Still needs a little tweaking.
 

Real tempted to buy one of those, supposedly they are pretty good. I'm just not sure where to put it. Outside is not really ideal, my shop is packed unless I kick a vehicle out (then my driveway will be packed.) Shed is too full, I need to get rid of some stuff in there. I also want to get a brake lathe but am running into the same problem. I think I would rather have a tire machine if I had to pick between those two.

Wait.. didn't you just build a whoppin assed pole-barn just about big enough to host a tri-county hotdog eating competition? Or was that Scott?

Either way.. seems like you gotta grow your compound with more out-buildings lol. Get a shipping container... One-way single door 40 footers go for about 4k delivered out this way.. and one-way single door 20 footers for right around 2k. Brand new ones are double.

I'm getting a 20 footer as soon as I can manage to get a stripped 35 foot 5th wheel camper frame moved across the yard.. the container needs the space that the camper frame currently occupies.. don't know anyone with a 5th wheel but I do have a few friendly neighbors with decently sized yard tractors who are always itching for some seat time..

The frame is also gonna be turned into a car hauler.. gonna cut it back so it's not a gooseneck.. weld a regular triangle tounge setup on it.. pintle hitch probably.. I just gotta figure out how much I should be whacking off of the front and the rear so the axles end up in a good position. Seems like most car haulers put the space between the f&r axles just about 60% of the way towards the rear of the deck.. also gotta figure out how long I want it to be.. most car haulers seem to be 16-18 feet.. I don't know if I really need a deck that long though.. I feel like making the deck length just barely longer than the usual fullsize pickups wheelbase would be more than enough space.. 14 foot deck should suffice..
 
Wait.. didn't you just build a whoppin assed pole-barn just about big enough to host a tri-county hotdog eating competition? Or was that Scott?

Either way.. seems like you gotta grow your compound with more out-buildings lol. Get a shipping container... One-way single door 40 footers go for about 4k delivered out this way.. and one-way single door 20 footers for right around 2k. Brand new ones are double.

I'm getting a 20 footer as soon as I can manage to get a stripped 35 foot 5th wheel camper frame moved across the yard.. the container needs the space that the camper frame currently occupies.. don't know anyone with a 5th wheel but I do have a few friendly neighbors with decently sized yard tractors who are always itching for some seat time..

The frame is also gonna be turned into a car hauler.. gonna cut it back so it's not a gooseneck.. weld a regular triangle tounge setup on it.. pintle hitch probably.. I just gotta figure out how much I should be whacking off of the front and the rear so the axles end up in a good position. Seems like most car haulers put the space between the f&r axles just about 60% of the way towards the rear of the deck.. also gotta figure out how long I want it to be.. most car haulers seem to be 16-18 feet.. I don't know if I really need a deck that long though.. I feel like making the deck length just barely longer than the usual fullsize pickups wheelbase would be more than enough space.. 14 foot deck should suffice..

That was Scott, but I have a big shop too. I would love to get a shipping container but my current lot does not have room for one. I could maybe put one on our other property but my parents may object and my wife says I have too much crap that’s spilling out of our lot now… and she’s not entirely wrong… but I really like all my stuff!!!!!!
 
Wait.. didn't you just build a whoppin assed pole-barn just about big enough to host a tri-county hotdog eating competition? Or was that Scott?

Either way.. seems like you gotta grow your compound with more out-buildings lol. Get a shipping container... One-way single door 40 footers go for about 4k delivered out this way.. and one-way single door 20 footers for right around 2k. Brand new ones are double.

I'm getting a 20 footer as soon as I can manage to get a stripped 35 foot 5th wheel camper frame moved across the yard.. the container needs the space that the camper frame currently occupies.. don't know anyone with a 5th wheel but I do have a few friendly neighbors with decently sized yard tractors who are always itching for some seat time..

The frame is also gonna be turned into a car hauler.. gonna cut it back so it's not a gooseneck.. weld a regular triangle tounge setup on it.. pintle hitch probably.. I just gotta figure out how much I should be whacking off of the front and the rear so the axles end up in a good position. Seems like most car haulers put the space between the f&r axles just about 60% of the way towards the rear of the deck.. also gotta figure out how long I want it to be.. most car haulers seem to be 16-18 feet.. I don't know if I really need a deck that long though.. I feel like making the deck length just barely longer than the usual fullsize pickups wheelbase would be more than enough space.. 14 foot deck should suffice..
14’ is too short, I have a 14’ open deck equipment trailer. Theoretically you could fit a truck on there, but you won’t have a good angle to properly tie it down and don’t turn very sharp with the vehicle you’re towing with or you’ll find the bumper of the truck on the trailer. 16’ is, IMHO, minimum, 18’ is much more comfortable. If you’re going to haul anything longer than like a Bronco II that is, I had one of those on the 14’ trailer and that’s about the max comfortable vehicle length on that deck. I currently have an F-150 frame on there (94 regular cab, 8’ box) and the frame hangs a good few feet off the back with the rad support area at the front of the deck.
 
I prefer to but used but i am not against buying new. I just like good deals and they are usually had one used tires.

I have access to free use of the mount and balance machines on base since the base let all the contractors go. The person in the autocraft shop just said if you know how to use them, go for it.


They were different then the ones we had at fort benning in the 90s but very easy to use, still.


I think i would rather havr a nice lift than a tire machine though. A bubble balancer and a lift and i would be good to go. I thought of how nice a lift would be all day today and yesterday while swapping the transmission on the wrangler. It sucked laying there with crap fallung in your eyes and trying to balance the tcase and than trans to remove and then align and reinstall the new transmission. It would have been so easy having a 2 or 4 post lift.
 
Wait.. didn't you just build a whoppin assed pole-barn just about big enough to host a tri-county hotdog eating competition? Or was that Scott?

Either way.. seems like you gotta grow your compound with more out-buildings lol. Get a shipping container... One-way single door 40 footers go for about 4k delivered out this way.. and one-way single door 20 footers for right around 2k. Brand new ones are double.

I'm getting a 20 footer as soon as I can manage to get a stripped 35 foot 5th wheel camper frame moved across the yard.. the container needs the space that the camper frame currently occupies.. don't know anyone with a 5th wheel but I do have a few friendly neighbors with decently sized yard tractors who are always itching for some seat time..

The frame is also gonna be turned into a car hauler.. gonna cut it back so it's not a gooseneck.. weld a regular triangle tounge setup on it.. pintle hitch probably.. I just gotta figure out how much I should be whacking off of the front and the rear so the axles end up in a good position. Seems like most car haulers put the space between the f&r axles just about 60% of the way towards the rear of the deck.. also gotta figure out how long I want it to be.. most car haulers seem to be 16-18 feet.. I don't know if I really need a deck that long though.. I feel like making the deck length just barely longer than the usual fullsize pickups wheelbase would be more than enough space.. 14 foot deck should suffice..
If I didn't have a tool box mounted on the front of mine, shorter would work. I have a 22', with the tool box holding my 10,000 lb winch, various chains, straps, and what nots at the front of the deck. A 1977 f250 extended cab just fits nicely.

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I've had my CCLB F350 on my 18' deck trailer, it's about as short as I would want for that... I don't remember if I had to take off the ramps or not, that was a long time ago...

Yeah, I just built a 36'x48' shop and I have no room for a tire machine, heck I only have one usable bay right now, need to get my lift installed then I'd have more room... I just use spoons and a bead breaker to mount tires, last time I had the tire shop balance them, I should get a bubble balancer... that would save money after the first use... I have mounting and dismounting tires with spoons down pretty good, maybe 15 minutes a tire to dismount and mount...

I've ran my share of used tires, I've gotten pickier over the years as I've had issues here and there... if I had to pay for mount/dismount it would not make sense... I keep getting used tires for my Explorer because I keep saying I'm going to rip those axles out but here it's been like 9 years... the first 3 years or so I ran used tires on my '97 Ranger because I was playing with tire size to get where I wanted to be but when the last set wore out I put new on... mounted myself just had the shop balance them...

Now I just need to find somewhere to get rid of tires that isn't ridiculous, I've got a bit of a pile at this point...
 
14’ is too short, I have a 14’ open deck equipment trailer. Theoretically you could fit a truck on there, but you won’t have a good angle to properly tie it down and don’t turn very sharp with the vehicle you’re towing with or you’ll find the bumper of the truck on the trailer. 16’ is, IMHO, minimum, 18’ is much more comfortable. If you’re going to haul anything longer than like a Bronco II that is, I had one of those on the 14’ trailer and that’s about the max comfortable vehicle length on that deck. I currently have an F-150 frame on there (94 regular cab, 8’ box) and the frame hangs a good few feet off the back with the rad support area at the front of the deck.

Longest thing I've hauled on the shortest deck.. 12'-3" according to uhaul. I don't believe I can realistically imagine ever having to haul something longer than this.. at least concerning wheelbase. Towed good too 👍🏻

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That being said.. I'm not terribly concerned about any potential rear overhang should I be hauling something this long again. It's not against the law here nor would I be held liable for anything should someone run into the back of me. Maines a state.. thankfully.. where if you get rear ended it's 100% the fault of the other driver. There's zero excuse to cornhole someone.

Your point about having good angles to strap stuff down is a good one.. but I fell head over heels in love with how the tie down situation is on the uhaul trailers. They have basket/web straps that are hard mounted to the deck at the rear of the straps.. they get wrapped up and over the front tires towards the front of the trailer.. and then stuck in the ratchet tightener jobbie that's bolted to the front of the trailer. At the rear you just loop a strap or two over the axle and ratchet it down to the trailer. Suuuuuper easy, super secure.

Hitting the bumper/bed on tight turns shouldnt be an issue either.. at least not for me. I'll be pulling it with my squarebody, which is gonna wind up sporting a flatbed and just a simple pintle hitch plate bolted between the frame rails. If anyone wants to borrow the trailer they'll just have to be careful 😂


...but... It IS obviously better to be over prepared than under prepared.. so... Yeah I guess I'll leave it at 16 feet lol.
 
Back to the subject. Every place around here that still sells used tires has a bunch of stuff with illegally low (2/32) tread that they want $40 + $20 to mount and balance. That's $60 for may-pops (Often with a puncture too.) or $120 for new. I know what I'm doing.

That might change if I came across a full set of Jeep take-off 33s on wheels.
 
Longest thing I've hauled on the shortest deck.. 12'-3" according to uhaul. I don't believe I can realistically imagine ever having to haul something longer than this.. at least concerning wheelbase. Towed good too 👍🏻

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That being said.. I'm not terribly concerned about any potential rear overhang should I be hauling something this long again. It's not against the law here nor would I be held liable for anything should someone run into the back of me. Maines a state.. thankfully.. where if you get rear ended it's 100% the fault of the other driver. There's zero excuse to cornhole someone.

Your point about having good angles to strap stuff down is a good one.. but I fell head over heels in love with how the tie down situation is on the uhaul trailers. They have basket/web straps that are hard mounted to the deck at the rear of the straps.. they get wrapped up and over the front tires towards the front of the trailer.. and then stuck in the ratchet tightener jobbie that's bolted to the front of the trailer. At the rear you just loop a strap or two over the axle and ratchet it down to the trailer. Suuuuuper easy, super secure.

Hitting the bumper/bed on tight turns shouldnt be an issue either.. at least not for me. I'll be pulling it with my squarebody, which is gonna wind up sporting a flatbed and just a simple pintle hitch plate bolted between the frame rails. If anyone wants to borrow the trailer they'll just have to be careful 😂


...but... It IS obviously better to be over prepared than under prepared.. so... Yeah I guess I'll leave it at 16 feet lol.
I know I’ve never regretted having a longer trailer than I need. Dad even regrets the 14’ trailer. It was plenty long for his skid steer that he bought the trailer for but a 16 or 18’ trailer would be more useful. Also the closer you can get to a wide, flat deck, the nicer for loading. Deck height carries its own penalties though. I built the little trailer we have so I could put a couple 6x6 ties on the deck and set something on top that would go over the top of the fenders. I didn’t want to go higher but a totally flat deck would have been awesome.

If you’re doing a flat deck on the square body and that’s the tow rig, why don’t you want a gooseneck/5th wheel? Those are the best for towing and I’m intending to set my F-150 up like that on the rebuild…
 
I agree with everything everybody said, on both sides of the issue. The cars my women and children drive always have new tires. If I was tight for cash, I would buy less expensive tires, but always new.

When I was still working for a living, I had new tires on my daily driver. My F250, which I bought new in 96, has always had new tires, but that’s more because I don’t use it that often but sometimes when I do, I probably have it overloaded.

All the rest of my collection and junk pile have used tires if I can find them. Let me clarify that. I don’t go to any of the used tire places, that’s a crapshoot. But when I think I’m going to need some tires coming up, I’m on craigslist and marketplace about 30 times a day. You can find some good deals, but you have to jump the minute you see them or they’ll be gone. I can do it because in my semi retirement, I could run out anytime.

When I was in the real world, I had a 24 foot enclosed trailer, a beauty, but I also had some pretty high-end collector stuff. That always had new very heavy duty tires. The rest of my trailers, always used tires, but good tires. When I built the step trailer for the Road Ranger, I put in the tire carriers from under a Ranger pick up truck on both sides, so I have two spares. If I was going to take a long trip or pull a particularly heavy load, I might throw another one or two on top or in the truck. Most of those tires I got for free or for 10 or $20. I almost always run car tires on my trailers.

I live in the big city, so it’s not hard to find little mom & pop tire shops who will mount and balance 14 and 15 inch tires for like 15 or $20. Balancing is not rocket science, especially with the newer machines, so there’s no reason to go to a Firestone or Goodyear place. And I’m usually in a position where I can drop them off and pick them up later, so they can use it as fill in work.

I really miss Covid on subjects like this. You could buy anything for nothing. The rich people were cleaning out their houses cause they were bored and they didn’t need the money, and the poor people were cleaning out their houses because they needed the money. A perfect scavenger environment.

Even on my collectibles, except the very high dollar ones, I would run used tires if I could find them. A lot of those cars only saw 500 or 1000 miles a year.

On the trailer tangent, considering I play with Lincoln Towncars and trucks, the minimum deck length for me would be 20 feet. That’s hard to keep at my house now that we’ve sold all the commercial property, but I’m planning on building one with the remaining 4 x 6 aluminum beams I picked up a couple years ago. It’s two 4” C channels, C facing out, with spacers between. I can bolt the spring hangers between the two channels and keep it low profile. I want to run 14 inch low profile tires (185/65/14), that’s pretty much what I use on all my trailers, with matching Ranger wheels, which I will get used, actually I probably already have them, and I plan on three or four axles, but that’s just for it being a goofy toy.

And one last thought on converting camper frames to car or equipment trailers. That’s what I did with the step trailer, and I had a friend who had a double axle about 16 feet long we converted for cars. Even beefed up, they are just not built for the weight. If I had to do over again, I would have fabed the step trailer out of steel. I’m looking at another one right now, talking out of the other side of my mouth, but if I do it, it will be very heavily braced with additional steel (which I will buy used). I like the camper trailer frames because they come with titles, which I’ll need if I ever move back up north.

Just throwing it all in the mix

EDIT afterthought: I have about 25 of the 14 inch bullet hole/outlaw II wheels. I literally got half of them for nothing, some with good tires, during Covid. I don’t think I ever paid over $20 for the rest of them. Now they’re selling them for 45 or $50, but you can still find deals.
 
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