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Pretty sure the motor is siezed? Also, which 3.0 longblocks can I use?


240sx4u

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Alright, flame suit on. I know this must be a pretty noob question but I didn't have a ton of luck searching.

My very good friend and his wife have a Mazda B3000. He was driving the truck to an interview out of state and the oil light came on and engine died. They were going to have it towed to the Mazda dealer, but I had them drop it at my house. They are the greatest of friends, and I really want to help them out.

Reading of this scenario, I prayed for an electrical problem but after attempting to crank the engine over tonight it seems to be seized up tight. The starter engages then pulls major amperage (as if its jammed). I am trying to figure out solutions before I call them with the bad news, and want to fix it for them.

My question is this, does this sound consistent with a seized motor? Sounds dumb but I don't want to overlook something else and I have never actually dealt with a seized engine.

From my reading, it seems that almost all the 3.0 ford V6s will work. Is this essentially correct? I want to source an engine before I give the bad news.

Thanks everyone, your help is greatly appreciated.

Evan
 
I did some reading before the truck got to my house, and suspect that sensor was the culprit as well. I got home tonight, and reached inside the truck to turn the starter. Exactly as I had suspected.

There is a very reasonably priced 3.0 somewhat locally. Now my question for you guy is about the damage incurred. Does this generally just destroy the longblock or does it cause head damage as well?

Thanks - Evan
 
Dang, starting to get paranoid about this CMP thaaaang. Are there warning signs? Is there any value to pre-emptively pulling the pup, and inspecting the infamous nylon gear for cracks, gouges, abnormal wear... or does it just "go"??

the heads should be fine.

Is this because the valvetrain is less sensitive to oil-starvation than the bottom end?
 
the problem isnt the gear, its the nylon bushing that the syncro shaft rides on. if your really worried, you can pull it and check it for play, and spray it down with some spray lube to help extend its life some.

Is this because the valvetrain is less sensitive to oil-starvation than the bottom end?

basically. the valvetrane recieves lubrication due to the oil just splashing around up there. even after the oil pump shuts down, there is still a film of oil on all the components. the amount of wear that pushrods and rockers will experience in a few minutes of oil-less running is nill.
 
varies widely. some people have had them fail as soon as 40K, some 140K.

a failing cam syncro will usually make noise, like a squeeky belt, once it starts to go out.
 
i just want to know if there is anyway to save the motor if oil light comes on because of that
 
if your oil light comes on while driving, put the trck in neutral and shut the engine off immediatly.
 
im not real familiar with the v6 i have a 93 2.3 with 152,000 miles on it and it runs great i really hope my new one holds up for more then 40k
 
FYI: I believe the correct acronym for the CAMshaft Position Sensor is actually CMP, whereas CPS designates the CRANKshaft Pos Sensor, i.e. the optical thingy "looking at" the gear on the front end of the crank, behind the pulley.

Carry on... and thanks for all the insights... now if my Vulcan would just fail spectactularly, due to the actions of a city gov't employee, I could drop that 2.3L Turbo and Exploder AWD in there, LOL!
 
I could drop that 2.3L Turbo and Exploder AWD in there, LOL!

id be interested in seeing that. ive toyed with the idea of a lowered (not slammed) AWD street ranger for a while now...i just cant decide if its worth the extra weight...
 

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