2.5L ('98-'01) Power mods

[pjtoledo]

View attachment 110220

7.5 ring gear diameter, that's the smaller axle.
3.73:1 ratio.
that is very common for manual trucks. many autos got 4.10:1 from the factory for your year.

 

[Micahfriesen]

These cams also require the use of .400" tip or .450" tip length BOPORT or other aftermarket valves for mechanical clearance and proper spring installed height.

After reading bo-port's website a little closer I cam across this. It would appear that it would be interference after installing the cam without installing aftermarket valves.

 

[Blmpkn]

After reading bo-port's website a little closer I cam across this. It would appear that it would be interference after installing the cam without installing aftermarket valves.

That little snippet you've quoted isn't on the ranger n/a street cam listings.. those two cams are more or less plug n play. I've been communicating with bo here and there over the past few months trying to figure out a good course of action with my own truck.

There also isn't anything wrong with an interference engine, so long as you don't allow your timing belt to snap... which is just as easy as ensuring your ball joints don't go bye-bye while doing 70mph down the freeway... it's a matter of basic maintenance.

In fact... this quest you're on more or less requires an interference motor.

As far as tuning, I'm going to go with tweecer rt on my own truck. Between the 1.5 cam, shaving the head, gobs of exhaust work.. fiddling with the intake.. I'm gonna need a heavy hitter. There aren't too many options for properly tuning the older computers.

 

[superj]

and hit your local junkyards to try and find that 4.10 rear end. my 04 came with a 4.10 and the 8.8 rear axle. i would be fine with a 7.5 because i don;t do anything but the 4.10 is so much fun. i have the 3.0, which is a little more hp than you have and it is a high rpm engine, just like yours. the 4.10 lets me get into the rpms quicker and stay there easier. it definitely makes my ranger a lot fun to drive. all i have done to this one is change the muffler. i still enjoy driving this truck every day

 

[bhgl]

I know the 2.3L trucks were often equipped with a clutch fan, and a radiator fan.

It may be worth investigating that situation, if you only have a clutch fan you'll get some power by installing an e-fan, if you have both you'll get some benefit by removing the clutch fan and making sure your e-fan works properly to cool the truck.

 

[Blmpkn]

I know the 2.3L trucks were often equipped with a clutch fan, and a radiator fan.

It may be worth investigating that situation, if you only have a clutch fan you'll get some power by installing an e-fan, if you have both you'll get some benefit by removing the clutch fan and making sure your e-fan works properly to cool the truck.

2.3/5 trucks equipped with a/c came with an additional e-fan.. but theres some debate on weather or not the e-fan is enough to provide enough cooling for the motor on its own.

Either way.. getting rid of the mechanical fan is an excellent suggestion. It's something I'm doing with mine.

 

[bhgl]

2.3/5 trucks equipped with a/c came with an additional e-fan.. but theres some debate on weather or not the e-fan is enough to provide enough cooling for the motor on its own.

Either way.. getting rid of the mechanical fan is an excellent suggestion. It's something I'm doing with mine.

I just swapped a 2.3s e-fan and shroud onto my 3.0, I've only got 300 or so KMs on it at the moment but so far I'd call it more than sufficient, and the power and driveability is notably better.

He'd just have to make sure the fan comes on at temperature, I'm not sure how those fans were wired to run stock, but of they only ran when the AC is on he'd probably have to pick up a kit

 

[Blmpkn]

I just swapped a 2.3s e-fan and shroud onto my 3.0, I've only got 300 or so KMs on it at the moment but so far I'd call it more than sufficient, and the power and driveability is notably better.

He'd just have to make sure the fan comes on at temperature, I'm not sure how those fans were wired to run stock, but of they only ran when the AC is on he'd probably have to pick up a kit

Yeah those fans are wired to come on when the hvac knob gets switched to A/C.. possibly defrost too.. unsure about that one..

But yes, one of those universal thermometer switch setups wouldn't be difficult or expensive to install in the truck to operate the fan. Last time I checked I believe they were around 75$

 

[bhgl]

Yeah those fans are wired to come on when the hvac knob gets switched to A/C.. possibly defrost too.. unsure about that one..

But yes, one of those universal thermometer switch setups wouldn't be difficult or expensive to install in the truck to operate the fan. Last time I checked I believe they were around 75$

I was able to pick one up here in Canada with an adjustable thermostat for about 41$ CAD, I was also able to wire it to turn the fan on when the AC Clutch cycles, it doesn't stay on the whole time AC is selected however, but cycles often enough to be sufficient.

I'd recommend the adjustable thermostats in most cases, just be aware that the universal kits are just packaged together sets of hardware, mine came with a different thermostat unit than the instruction/diagram listed, so I had to do some testing to figure out how to get it to operate.

I should really write up a tech article on it, seems like the easiest solution to installing an E-Fan on these trucks is shockingly, to install the E-Fan that was made for them haha.

 

[Bgunner]

I just swapped a 2.3s e-fan and shroud onto my 3.0, I've only got 300 or so KMs on it at the moment but so far I'd call it more than sufficient, and the power and driveability is notably better.

He'd just have to make sure the fan comes on at temperature, I'm not sure how those fans were wired to run stock, but of they only ran when the AC is on he'd probably have to pick up a kit

Somethings to think about is how hot it gets in the summer and what conditions it is driven in during those high temp days. If you are in a cool area in summertime a stock e-fan may get the job done but lets say you are in a hotter area and doing city driving. These conditions the stock e-fan may not be enough to keep it cool enough as the vehicle is moving at a slow pace so less air is forced into the radiator and you are relying on that e-fan to pull more air through the radiator.

I am no expert on e-fan setups or how much the stock e-fan can draw through a radiator. I am giving this info for you guys to consider while you are looking into swapping over. Good luck and I am watching to see what your results are while I am also considering the swap. my 3-slow with 3.45 gears needs every HP it can get. lol

 

[bhgl]

Somethings to think about is how hot it gets in the summer and what conditions it is driven in during those high temp days. If you are in a cool area in summertime a stock e-fan may get the job done but lets say you are in a hotter area and doing city driving. These conditions the stock e-fan may not be enough to keep it cool enough as the vehicle is moving at a slow pace so less air is forced into the radiator and you are relying on that e-fan to pull more air through the radiator.

I am no expert on e-fan setups or how much the stock e-fan can draw through a radiator. I am giving this info for you guys to consider while you are looking into swapping over. Good luck and I am watching to see what your results are while I am also considering the swap. my 3-slow with 3.45 gears needs every HP it can get. lol

Definitely something to consider, I haven't been able to do any testing at ambient temps above 15C yet, or heavy towing/mountain passes.
However for now, I do think it's more effective than just a clutch fan for a few reasons:

-from simply just "feeling" the air pressure generated by both fans, I would say they're certainly comparable
-the shroud design from the 2.3's is simply better, not only does the e-fan sit much deeper in the shroud, and closer to the radiator than the clutch fan. It's also sealed to the radiator on the top and bottom, meaning the only air being pulled is through the radiator and not from above or below it
-some efficiency gains from less drag, this is probably negligible, but overall less engine work = less heat
-some thermostat kit designs like mine allow for the fan to run constantly when the ignition is on, this is ideal for towing or heavy load applications considering the transmission cooler is typically mounted directly in front of the radiator, and I don't believe our transmissions have temperature sensors to warn us before they start overheating

The fan installed in the shroud is a standard Motorcraft radiator fan, and not a reduced power unit just to cover the needs of the A/C. If it isn't sufficient however, the 2.3's shroud overall is a welcome addition for better efficiency, and an aftermarket fan could be mounted in place.

 

[Bgunner]

Just adding a e-fan and keeping the stock fan with the clutch does nothing for performance other than insure you stay cool. You need to remove the stock fan and its clutch as these are the major drags on the motor. In this situation the e-fan is the only source of cooling and is driven off of the alternator which is less drag on the motor. This is where the E-fan becomes more efficient and you gain the few extra HP's.

From the way I am reading your post @bhgl is that you just added a e-fan and didn't remove the stock fan and clutch?

 

[Micahfriesen]

I believe mine has the clutch fan, as it directly linked to the engine.

 

[Micahfriesen]

and hit your local junkyards to try and find that 4.10 rear end. my 04 came with a 4.10 and the 8.8 rear axle. i would be fine with a 7.5 because i don;t do anything but the 4.10 is so much fun. i have the 3.0, which is a little more hp than you have and it is a high rpm engine, just like yours. the 4.10 lets me get into the rpms quicker and stay there easier. it definitely makes my ranger a lot fun to drive. all i have done to this one is change the muffler. i still enjoy driving this truck every day

I think I will possibly do that. Do you swap the entire axle out, or just the differential?

 

[bhgl]

Just adding a e-fan and keeping the stock fan with the clutch does nothing for performance other than insure you stay cool. You need to remove the stock fan and its clutch as these are the major drags on the motor. In this situation the e-fan is the only source of cooling and is driven off of the alternator which is less drag on the motor. This is where the E-fan becomes more efficient and you gain the few extra HP's.

From the way I am reading your post @bhgl is that you just added a e-fan and didn't remove the stock fan and clutch?

Sorry, I in fact removed the clutch fan, and installed a 2.3 ranger's e-fan and shroud trimmed to fit.

I've ran just a little over 300 KMs with it installed now doing both highway, stop and go, and some idling at train and bridge crossings and have experience no issues with overheating.