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Please Read: Vapor Canister/Evap System Thing...Fix? Or Can I Remove?


Anyone able to answer his question. Will it hurt to remove the line from the intake and plug up the hole?
 
It will throw a code as it is looking for a pressure difference across the PF. removing it from the system will keep the pressure at a constant. Removing the PF and the solenoid will have an open showing the computer that the parts have died and trip a code. Anytime your check engine light is on the system resorts to an open loop mode (limp in) and your fuel economy will suffer.
 
Bump. I just wanna know if I completely remove this thing and block off everything can I get it tuned so that the computer isn't all messed up? I'm thinking I will do this.

Don't do it. You are in a world of headaches if you start removing parts of the vapor system.
 
Yeah I ended up keeping it. Just wondering if it could be done easy..short answer...no
 
Bringing this thread back from the dead.

I bought my '99 Ranger XLT last month and it looks like the previous owner totally removed the EVAP system. What am I looking at in terms of cost for parts and labor on this?
 
I know I'm a few years out of this conversation, but I have a issue, kinda, with my 94. I just put plug wires on it yesterday and noticed the tube from the canister/ valve wasn't connected to the port on the intake. I replaced the head gasket a few weeks ago, I guess I didn't see it when reconnecting everything. So I pushed the tube back onto the nipple, everything was good. Few hours later leaving town after eating, I was pulling off from a stop sign, truck just died. Few cranks, it started back up. Few miles down the road I turn onto my street, get in second, go to accelerate, it dies again. Takes a few more cranks, but starts again. Long story short, other than the wires replaced, I hadn't done anything else, so I pulled the vapor tube back off, and it hasn't shut off all day. That mean the valve is bad? Canister bad? It runs well, not quite 20 mpg, power? Eh, it's 2.3 with a 2.75 rear gear, it barely gets out of its own way. Mpg is my big number since I drive 100 miles one way every Monday and 100 back every Fri. I can't say it was connected before, I remember the dry rotten hose piece that is a connection between the intake and tube, but I'm guessing it wasn't. It did seem to run a bit better when connected, but again with the lack of hp and gear, it's hard to say
 
I know I'm a few years out of this conversation, but I have a issue, kinda, with my 94. I just put plug wires on it yesterday and noticed the tube from the canister/ valve wasn't connected to the port on the intake. I replaced the head gasket a few weeks ago, I guess I didn't see it when reconnecting everything. So I pushed the tube back onto the nipple, everything was good. Few hours later leaving town after eating, I was pulling off from a stop sign, truck just died. Few cranks, it started back up. Few miles down the road I turn onto my street, get in second, go to accelerate, it dies again. Takes a few more cranks, but starts again. Long story short, other than the wires replaced, I hadn't done anything else, so I pulled the vapor tube back off, and it hasn't shut off all day. That mean the valve is bad? Canister bad? It runs well, not quite 20 mpg, power? Eh, it's 2.3 with a 2.75 rear gear, it barely gets out of its own way. Mpg is my big number since I drive 100 miles one way every Monday and 100 back every Fri. I can't say it was connected before, I remember the dry rotten hose piece that is a connection between the intake and tube, but I'm guessing it wasn't. It did seem to run a bit better when connected, but again with the lack of hp and gear, it's hard to say
Oh, and after the temp sensor and gauge failure, head gasket blown, plug wires, now this, still haven't had a check engine light on. Knock on wood
 

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